Hello all,

Am sure this has been asked before, have done some searches but can't find anything specific.

Have got a 2010 FL2 GS, its done 82000 miles, so not bad for a 2010. Its been faultless the 2 years we've had it. Just recently I noticed a kind of thud from the rear when pulling away from junctions. If you pull away gently it doesn't do it, it feels a bit like ABS kicking in. First thought was the Haldex unit so I removed the fuse for it and drove like that, there were warning messages obviously but the thud / vibration was gone. Last week the Haldex was removed, filter replaced, gauze filter cleaned. The whole unit was cleaned up and put back together - its still doing it though.

Land Rover have quoted £2538 for a new Haldex. Have been on to Bell but they can't help just now with a replacement unit.

There is no whine from the diff, most of the time it drives fine. Could this just be the pump? The ECU for the Haldex or the support bearing on the propshaft? No warning lights or messages at all. Tyres all good and all at the correct pressure. Really don't want to have to spend the best part of £3k repairing something that's worth £5k tops trade in.

Also recently drove through a pretty big flood, not sure if that killed the ECU or damaged the bearing.

Any advice before I spend a tonne of money would be much appreciated

Cheers ____________________________

FL2 SD4 XS - Current
FL2 TD4 GS (Auto) - Gone
FL1 TD4 Freestyle (Auto) - Gone

A thump would indicate play in the drive line somewhere, most likely in the splines between the gearbox and PTU. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Got to agree, sounds more like the PTU - opposite end of the propshaft.
The input splines aren't lubricated, so they fret and strip, the goodish news is the PTU is connected to the gearbox by a splined coupling, this also dies in the process. The splined coupling is available separately saving on the cost of a gearbox replacement - change the oilseal that seals in this when you do the job.

The PTUs have also been known to fail internally, but the result is just the same - new PTU required, and take a long look at the splined coupling while it is out, saves doing the job twice. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Update. This morning haldex was taken off again, oil flushed out and a new N373 valve fitted. Refilled with oil but no point replacing the filter as that was done a week or so ago. Went for a long drive this evening. No thumps or knocks and seems fine now. Will keep an eye on it though, just in case it is the PTU or the coupling. Either way, better than £2538 (not including labour) that LR wanted for a new unit. ____________________________

FL2 SD4 XS - Current
FL2 TD4 GS (Auto) - Gone
FL1 TD4 Freestyle (Auto) - Gone

good result.
out of interest where did you get the n373 valve from ? Jules

Good result,

See us old guys don't always know best  Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Cheers. I found the valve at a place in Crewe. I think they were called Auto Fault Finder. They have a load of information about Haldex units from all different makes like Audi and Volvo. I contacted them and described what the truck was doing, so they suggested that as the valve was only £70 including vat and postage and our garage only charged £100 to fit it and replace the oil. When the valve arrived you can see how it works as a kind of clutch pedal inside the unit. The o rings on the old one were pretty shot so either too much oil was coming through when the pump kicked in making it slip - or not enough causing it to stick.

Will see how it goes. It is a Land Rover after all. If anything goes bang I'll post and update. ____________________________

FL2 SD4 XS - Current
FL2 TD4 GS (Auto) - Gone
FL1 TD4 Freestyle (Auto) - Gone