Anyone has an idea what this could be:
- engine starts without any problems
- after 2 seconds it stops (doesn't matter if engine is cold or warm)
- if I start it again all is fine
- not sure if it has anything to do with it but timing belt was done 500 miles ago and I changed the battery last month
- it's a TD4 2009 with 140k miles on the clock
Thanks for your thoughts !

Stab in the dark here but fuel filter ?

Mine's been doing that for ages! Completely random, though usually when starting from cold.

I don't know if it's related to my other issue of the key not docking properly and then not wanting to eject properly when I switch off.

not sure about the shutting off - but the key issue, is it an old one with the paint wore off etc? I noticed ours was doing the same - just didnt feel smooth anymore and i had to pull it out at times. Totally unrelated i got the spare key up and runnign again - that dodgy battery connection sorted. Anyway it now works 100% fine.

I did get a new cover from ebay or amazon but the key retaining tab was weak and broke before i even got the thing apart to use! I managed to open mine with no real damage by squeezing it ( length ways - multiple points) just enough in a vice to break the seal
hope that helps. Stewart
2007 Freelander 2 SE TD4
2007 A6 quattro 3.0 TDI Manual
1986 coupe quattro (kv) square wheels.
1972 mini 1400 100BHP A series

willem63 I had something similar to this last year my 09 plate would not start 1st attempt but would start 2nd attempt and run fine this went on for a week then I replaced the MAF sensor and it went back to normal just an idea to try 2009 FL2 S now gone
2011 FL2 HSE AUTO
2012 FL2 XS AUTO
2000 Kawasaki er 5

In cold weather mine also does that dip in revs shortly after firing up, but it nearly always catches itself just before it stalls. A couple of times it has let me get out and start scraping the windscreen before deciding to stall, but it is very rare. It's done it as long as I have had the vehicle and through two cycles of replacement fuel filter at service and one replacement battery. I've always assumed that the software is doing something clever around that point when the engine is warming up, heater plugs are cooling down etc. and that at times it simply doesn't quite get it right. I do find that all these minor glitches seem to occur much less often if I boot-up the system before going for ignition. 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

Mine also dips out momentarily after it first starts. This was a pain when the engine was broken, but now its running mostly ok, it doesn't stall. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

SWalker wrote:

not sure about the shutting off - but the key issue, is it an old one with the paint wore off etc? I noticed ours was doing the same - just didnt feel smooth anymore and i had to pull it out at times. Totally unrelated i got the spare key up and runnign again - that dodgy battery connection sorted. Anyway it now works 100% fine.

I did get a new cover from ebay or amazon but the key retaining tab was weak and broke before i even got the thing apart to use! I managed to open mine with no real damage by squeezing it ( length ways - multiple points) just enough in a vice to break the seal
hope that helps.

Worms wrote:

In cold weather mine also does that dip in revs shortly after firing up, but it nearly always catches itself just before it stalls. A couple of times it has let me get out and start scraping the windscreen before deciding to stall, but it is very rare. It's done it as long as I have had the vehicle and through two cycles of replacement fuel filter at service and one replacement battery. I've always assumed that the software is doing something clever around that point when the engine is warming up, heater plugs are cooling down etc. and that at times it simply doesn't quite get it right. I do find that all these minor glitches seem to occur much less often if I boot-up the system before going for ignition.

robblue wrote:

willem63 I had something similar to this last year my 09 plate would not start 1st attempt but would start 2nd attempt and run fine this went on for a week then I replaced the MAF sensor and it went back to normal just an idea to try

Hi Willem, I have exactly the same issue with the engine cutting out directly or soon after starting. It started about two years ago - twice within a month, and then nothing for the next 2 years. It has now re-surfaced again, 5 times in 2 months. I don't use the car every day. Sometimes it dies directly after starting. I normally reverse out of the garage without using throttle, select drive at the end of the driveway, and idle towards the main gate which is only 30 metres away. It has died at the gate about 4 times. It takes about 15 seconds to get to the gate. It re-starts normally. It has only ever died once in the traffic after an extended idle at a long phased traffic light. At every other time it dies immediately after starting, once after about 2 secs after engaging reverse, the rest after about 15 secs. Each time at idle. An important point I noticed today when opening the windows from inside without starting the car: Put in the key fob, press the start button without my foot on the brake. All the normal dash lights came on and then went out immediately. the only light remaining is the 'key docked' light. No Immobiliser light. Thinking back, the dash lights remain off after the engine cuts, indicating the engine hasn't stalled. The connection is simply 'lost', but I don't know which connection? My gut feel is the ignition module that takes the key fob. So the relationship between the engine cutting only at idle or after start, and the ignition cutting even without the engine running is confusing.

My OBDII shows code P1259 and P061B. But I read on the OBDII site is that code P1259 is generic - there is no code P1259 for a Land Rover.
The slight dip after starting from cold has been there since new, but it has never died from that. This cutting out of the engine is something new - there is a loss of signal somewhere. The LRUK forum has one report of exactly the same thing.
Willem, as you are in SA as well, you can contact me on 0832996083.

Anyone with more input please? I am just fearing a dead car way out in the sticks.

Quote:

I read on the OBDII site is that code P1259 is generic - there is no code P1259 for a Land Rover

No, really...
Read here: https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic17379.html

P1259 Immobilizer to powertrain control module signal error
Which is consistent with the engine cutting out.

P061B Internal control module torque calculation performance
Also consistent with an engine cutting out, although it can appear on various other occasions.

IMHO, the sequence of events was: P1259 -> Engine off -> P061B

Thanks Alex - Yes, you are exactly right. Fault codes P1259 and P061B appear on the diagnostics printout from my friendly Land Rover Mechanic.
I have ordered the ignition control module but haven't received it yet. The module where the key fob slides into.
Now I am seeing some posts where there is a Land Rover bulletin available for this and it seems it needs to be reprogrammed on the Agent's diagnostics?
I will go and speak to them today.
Or just replace the module?

Just a quick update: I went to the Land Rover dealer closest to home. As always there is a constant turnover of Service Managers. The latest guy was young and extremely helpfull. He was also very clued up on the FL2. After 90 minutes of discussion in front of the manufacturer troubleshooting procedues, it does seem that the P1259 error would most likely be generated by the Central Junction Box (CJB). This box gives the feeds to the main engine ECU as well as the Start Control Module (the box that the key fob slides into). The clue that makes all the difference is that the dash lights go off when the engine cuts - and that cannot be caused by the Start Control Module.
The fix seems to revolve around checking for wiring faults, and also a software update which is basically a refresh of the whole system.
They recommended that I should access the CJB (also sometimes known as the Body Control Unit) behind the glove box, remove and clean all the plugs of which there are quite a few, and do the same to the main ECU which sits between the engiine and the body firewall. Access is below the wipers. Once that is done, I should take it in for the software reload.
They are a very large agency, and according to their records the Start Control Modules are not problematic - starting or engine cuts mostly lie elsewhere. I have cancelled my order for the Starting Module as it is accepting and rejecting the key fob smoothly.
As a side note, I did have lengthy issues with the key fobs and starting, until I added the additional earth wire between the Battery and Starter bolt. No more issues after that.
Hope this helps, and any further prompts will be great.

Had this problem on my wifes VW, it turned out to be the immobiliser so I had it deleted from the ECU, problem sorted.