Hi all hope everyone is enjoying their Christmas.
A couple of days ago I went to start my 2014MY fl2 BUT the clutch went straight to the floor! I suspected after looking at some other posts on this website that it was probably a failed clutch slave cylinder. I have now confirmed it is the, or one of the problems (hopefully the DMF is fine and has not caused the slave cylinder to give up). BUT this might sound daft but how can I start the car !!!! I thought just by having the car in neutral, and having the clutch pedal pressed down, press stop/start button let the clocks and BCM’s cycle it would start but nothing. Does the car rely on another sensor somewhere in the hydraulic circuit to be engaged before it will start, and if so how can it be started without doing anything detrimental to the car?
I might contemplate changing the clutch, slave cylinder, rear crankcase seal etc myself, I have never changed a clutch where the sub frame has to be removed so might I also ask is it a pain to do or is it easier than it looks, subframe off, transfer box off, driveshafts off move discs out the way etc. It would be getting done outside so not sure if this is the correct time to start a job like this, but then again a couple of tight bolts and I would soon warm up!
Anyway thanks for reading this,
Take care.

This isnt a lot of help but I found this in the JLR manual

"Stop/Start Vehicles - From 2010 MY
Clutch Master Cylinder and Linear Clutch Sensor
The linear clutch sensor, located on the clutch master cylinder and hardwired to the CJB, is used to sense the position of
the clutch pedal. It is used in conjunction with other sensor outputs to trigger an engine restart, engine stop or stall
recovery on Stop/Start vehicles. It is also used along with the first and reverse gear switches to complete clutch
plausibility.
A magnet inside the clutch master cylinder provides the position indicator for the linear clutch sensor. For this reason, if
the master cylinder is replaced the correct replacement master cylinder must be identified and fitted.
For additional information, refer to: Starting System (303-06C Starting System - TD4 2.2L Diesel, Vehicles Built From:
01-03-2009, Description and Operation)." Jules

Thanks for taking the time to reply, I might try and refill the reservoir and reverse bleed it from the clutch slave valve to see if it will get a bit of pressure! Just find it odd that you cannot start the car if for nothing else in an emergency situation or in any other situation that the hydraulic pressure might drop.

Welcome to the forum BTW Jules

There is a great YouTube video of a chap doing the full change if you search
2007 Landrover Freelander 2.2L Diesel Clutch Replacement, fascinating to watch and he does make it look quite straight forward to diy .

Hi. Did mine DIY last spring: https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic34147.html

Hi folks thank you for taking the time to reply, I am leaning to doing it my self only because I am a methodical sod (builder by trade so you are only as good as the jobs you have done) I have worked on air cooled VW's through to 6 cylinder BMW's so I know my way around a spanner, just when it is your own pride and joy you want to get all the facts together before you start and with it being quite a late one I dont want to mess anything up. Still think its a pain that now I have no hydraulic pressure at the clutch pedal I cannot start the car.

Might I ask regarding the sub frame on a YouTube Video (if you still call them videos!) The mechanic lets the sub frame hang on the drop links, is that just to save time or should you completely remove said sub frame for better access?

And if I could removing the sub frame would leave the steering rack exposed do you just tie it up so nothing is strained ?

Again thanks

Barry

MRRover75 wrote:

Hi. Did mine DIY last spring: https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic34147.html

Hi Bazo

I guess you have looked at my thread here.

I found it better to completely remove the sub frame to get things out of the way and then remove the gearbox completely. It gives you a better overview of the things and easier for inspection/clean up. I tied up the rack to the struts as you might see in my pictures. Prior to gearbox removal, I lowered the engine slightly down on axle stands and let the gearbox rest on the jack, then gently sled the gearbox of the engine/PTU and lowered it to the ground and pulled it away. Needed some help to manoeuvre the jack to get the gearbox back in position during re-assembly, but did all the rest alone. I did not remove the PTU but removed both driveshafts completely just to get them out of the way. Its a good idea to renew the engine oil and filter during this process as you get a lot of better access to the engine oil filter when the sub frame is away
Remember to check the state of the PTU splines when the gearbox is of and gently grease them on re-assembly. Also pay attention to the seals on the tubing that goes to the clutch slave during removal as one of them might get stuck inside the old slave/pipe. I renewed the plastic pipe (valve!?) between the slave and the clutch tubing. The one with the bleed nipple in...

Hello, thanks for the information, like I have said I hope to do the work myself the only down side at the moment is the weather ! If my local garage that I have used for years dont want to add a shed load of money for labour I will let them do it (I understand it is not the quickest job to do on a Freelander 2, but even so) if not and even taking into account the weather at the moment I will hopefully undertake the work myself.
The only other thing regarding getting my local garage to do the work is that I would have to get the car low loaded to them as I cannot start it !

But again thank you for taking the time to reply,

Cheers,