Hi all. I am posting this in case it helps someone,

I bought my freelander 2 late last year, I knew it had a haldex problem, or i believed thats what it was.

What I subsequently found out was that it would occasionally go into limp mode.

Over the course of a few months, the limp mode occurred more frequently, I ran diagnostics on it and the dtc said something like dpf bank 1 full. I ran further diagnostics that showed the dpf wasnt full so I replaced the dpf sensor.
That sorted the problem for a day.

To cut a long story short the fault was caused by a sticking egr cooler valve / flap , unfortunately it wasnt until the egr stuck completely that a dtc appeared that lead me to the egr cooler.

Any how, replaced the egr and cooler and the haldex now needless to say the car is running 100% .

Going to service the handbrake next, as it seems to be sticking on the drivers side

Freelander 2 Issues:
(2010 2.2 SD4 HSE Auto)

The cranking:

Recently I’ve had 2 occurrences of the car juddering when cranking to start. Repressing the Start button fires up the car no problem (i.e. plenty of cranking power in the battery) but the Reduced Engineer Performance light comes on and it enters limp home mode. Locking the car for a few minutes clears the limp home mode but the error is still displayed. Within a day or two the error disappears.

Scooby-who:

On odd occasions (can’t force it to reproduce the issue) when going from 1-2 gear (auto box) the turbo makes a duff-duff-duff sound and the engine has a momentary loss of power then once 2nd is engaged it’s fine. Tends to happen once I’ve been for a trip down the motorway, but not every time.

To whistle or not to whistle:

Along with the previous two issues I’ve noticed that the performance of the engine is variable as in some days it’s like a bat out of hell and other days it’s Grandpa’s car. What I have noticed is this corresponds with the sound from the turbo. It’s normal to hear is build pressure (that nice whistle) but some times it’s more evident and starts building the pressure from 1200rpm and you have a full on boy racer whistle by the time you’re hitting 2000rpm. After a few days running like this I’ll have both the Scooby Who issue and the Reduced Engine Performance and limp home mode. Doing the normal (lock it and leave it) clears the issue. Other days it’s think’s I’m 80, you can’t hear the pressure build and it’s very sedate, building pressure slowly at 1800…but you have to try to hear it.

None of the issues appear to log anything…

It’s had a new ERG valve about 10K miles ago and had the intercooler hose replaced (sounded like an old vacuum cleaner!) about 6K ago.

Any pointers?

UPDATE:

Managed to find a way to force the first issue and induce the R.E.Perf and limp home...take it for a blast down the motorway...park it up UNLOCKED for 45mins....and...there you have it...limp home mode when you start the engine. This time I managed to drive it over to our local LR specialist and the error code is P2454...something to do with a DPF pressure sensor. So booked in for more in-depth investigation.

Just a quick update: Seems the issue has now been resolved. There was a small crack in the pipes going to the DPF pressure sensor. It's been replaced and everything now seems to work. Still a very slight noise/stutter going from 1st to 2nd but nothing like before.

So having contributed earlier in the thread I thought I give an update.
So after having restricted performance in October which was an electrical connector fault apparently
Then December again RP it meant a new egr valve
Then March again RP, which was some wiring rubbed through on the gearbox? So part wiring harness replaced.
Yesterday again RP and currently at main dealers awaiting evaluation.
Car is a 63 reg 44k miles but under extended warranty (thank goodness) and each time LR assist called who ran tests and said main dealer needed.
A nice car, but four times RP in 9 months is annoying and inconvenient. I had read the LR reported reliability issues but still decided I wanted one, the F2 being affordable and perhaps a simpler car?
Going to have a serious think about whether to end my 15 months ownership. I do have warranty for 8 months or so.....

Well here we go again.
Drove maybe 80 miles and coming home along the motorway at a steady 70mph and suddenly restricted performance lights on. I have tried switching off and on and still there. LR assist out tomorrow morning. Fifth time same problem in past 12 months, each time bits changed, egr, wiring etc.
Serviced 1000 miles ago including new fuel filter, all by main dealer.
If I take away the restricted performance problems the car has been brilliant, but due to the problem it has spent around 3 weeks in total in the dealership, covered by warranty.
The LR Assist has been wonderful, but I wish I didn't need to use them Freelander2 MY13 GS with recurring restricted performance, still like it though

Just an update, the car has now had a new turbo fitted. So far so good. Freelander2 MY13 GS with recurring restricted performance, still like it though

For several weeks I've had an amber engine warning light after my 2008 TD4 2.2 diesel limped home on an 800 mile trip. Acceleration dropped to zilch over 3000 revs. Replaced solenoid that had dodgy looking wiring but as soon as I disconnected (and subsequently replaced) the MAF, power was back at all levels. Sorted! Well sort of...

The engine management light comes back on every time its cleared and stays on. Performance is fine. The independent garage (not LR) say the diagnostics point to a dashboard problem and probably not to worry.

What on earth could that be? And should I worry?

The independent garage (not LR) say the diagnostics point to a dashboard problem.

and the code was ? Some MY13 cars have EGR problems would help when posting to give all that basic information to year miles etc. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

If the mil light is coming on then there should be fault codes generated as well. The codes will help identify where the problem lies. Whilst the car may still drive ok it will give you peace of mind to get it sorted properly as continued driving as it is could lead to an eventual breakdown or more costly repairs in the future.

seems quite a few are related to the fuel filter, and or the DPF on this thread, posted for reference.

Here is my reduced engine power cause I hope - very common apparently.

Sent the car for an oil service with a newly arrived reduced power and yellow engine light on, asking them to sort it out. Garage didn’t find it despite it being the only part of the engine with a light covering of oil which had clearly sprayed out of the split, but they did give me the codes with a recommendation to take it to a LR dealer who can get the longer codes on their computer avoiding a sequence of expensive parts being changed.

Tested it out past night. When you first start up, you have the dash light but no reduced power mode so it will rev past 2250rpm. So gave it a run up in low gear waiting for a noise. Sure enough, a quiet noise which from inside the car I couldn’t differentiate between a pipe split blasting and throttle body gears grinding. It was dark so decided to leave it and maybe cable tie my mobile with voice recording switched on under the bonnet to repeat the test in the morning.

Didn’t need to. I opened the bonnet this morning after a little research last night on the three codes thrown (P006a-00, P0409-17, P2459-65) and decided to take a look at the intercooler plumbing. I reckon the last code (DPF regeneration timeframes) is to do with Covid related short journeys, so focussed on the first two. There are loads of pictures on the internet of this hose split associated with reduced power.

It took me longer to get the tools out and put them back than it took to do the job in between the block and the rad. Removed sump guard and inner wheel arch liner to check the rest of the run of pipes - all looks dry and ok. £15.99 delivered tomorrow from Amazon Prime and if it isn’t raining we should be up and running in 15minutes.

Let’s hope this is the only fault causing the issue. Myriad sensors, turbo, actuator, EGR etc are all waiting to bite my bum at 120,000+ miles.

Quick question. Will the yellow EMS light just reset, or will it need ODB tool intervention?

Ordered the part last night, arrived this morning with a cheap OBDii scanner.

Fitted the hose in the first 15 minutes of my lunchtime, ran the car round the block with some moderate bursts of acceleration which would have caused to to go into limp mode, and all was good.

Got home, switched off and did a bit of work for half an hour. Connected the OBD device and got no codes, and it put the MIL light out too.

16 quid for the hose, 20 quid for the scanner which should be very useful going forward - even if it never works again it just paid for itself.

Happy bunny.

I love it when a plan comes together!

Quote:

SeeFive wrote:

Ordered the part last night, arrived this morning with a cheap OBDii scanner.

Fitted the hose in the first 15 minutes of my lunchtime, ran the car round the block with some moderate bursts of acceleration which would have caused to to go into limp mode, and all was good.

Got home, switched off and did a bit of work for half an hour. Connected the OBD device and got no codes, and it put the MIL light out too.

16 quid for the hose, 20 quid for the scanner which should be very useful going forward - even if it never works again it just paid for itself.

Happy bunny.

Yes i did mine earlier this year, you can just about make out a tiny split in the hose, also it was wet and gunky.
1

it was remove again later in this year when i replaced the swirl manifold for a none swirl manifold as a prevetive measure.