When a egr valve caused problems it's due to it staying open thus letting exhaust gas into the mix blanking stops this happening giving a better mixture

That's great, wasn't looking forward to pulling the EGR, only to find it makes no difference. Before I go ordering a blanking plate, I guess I could try to make a temporary one just to test, any suggestions? I've got some wood I can probably cut to size, I'll see if I've got anything metal I can cut up. As for thickness if I look for something less than 3-4mm? Could I go too thin and it get sucked in?

Thanks again,

Roger

In old days we used a tin lid to make one

As in a bean can? That would be worth a try, maybe use two so it's a bit thicker.

I'll have to rummage through the bin...nice

Thanks again,

Roger

Turns out there's already a blanking plate fitted! Does this rule out the EGR completely at this point?

Thanks again,

Roger

Yes you can count the egr out have you unplugged the MAF

Evening, I'll try it again in the morning and report back.

Previously when it ran the MAF was connected to the air filter housing, but the intake hose was completely removed.

Thanks again

Roger

WARNING,dont use a bean can ,I see these destroyed when attending breakdowns ,toooo thin

No worries Sid, it was only for a test to try and eliminate the EGR. Turns out the car already has a proper blanking plate fitted.

I've not had a look at the car today due to the rain, bit if a fair weather player

Thanks again,

Roger

Morning, bit of an update.

Had to move the car quickly yesterday due to needing to fit a works van on the drive, so removed the air in take completely as this is my most successful starting setup. Car started fine, although I'm still jumping it via my car. Engine idled fine, pulled slowly forward, reversed back onto what is effectively my front garden, and due to lack of space I was being very careful to go slowly, I have four large paving slabs on the front garden, and I bumped into these, tried to rev a little to get over them and there was no power, I ended up going forward, then back in reverse and with the momentum bumped up the slabs.

Sorry for the short story, essentially it seems it now has no power? When we got it running the day I first posted, it definitely revved fine as my wife was sat ready to turn the engine off for me whilst I poked around under the bonnet, and I told her not to rev it so much.

Any thoughts folks?

Thanks again,

Roger

Could it be a broken throttle body. If the flap is stuck shut the engine could be starved of air and therefore suffering reduced performance. I haven’t had this happen to me (yet) but reading through some of the following posts it would seem that others have had reduced performance as a result of what is a fairly common problem on the Freelander 2. Have a read through this;

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic10246-15.html

Cheers Luke. I'll have a proper read through in the morning, but from the first couple of pages they mention a grinding noise, and there's a video with the noise, wife's car isn't doing that, but maybe it's gummed up and stuck open or closed. Not sure where it's located as yet, but I'll have a proper read tomorrow.

That again

Roger

Morning folks,

I've removed the throttle body this morning. Inside is a bit oiled up, is this expected?





I've manually opened and closed the flap, which is pretty stiff, but smooth. Is there a way to test it electronically? I've got one of those electric probes that you attach to a car battery and you can then probe the electrical connections and provide power to a component, which might prove it works or not?

I'm tempted to try and remove the cover to the cogs, but don't want to damage it doing so, hence the electrical test would be better if someone can give me any directions.

Thanks again,

Roger

Afternoon folks,

Decided to go ahead and open up the casing to check the gears, and they are all good. Discovered you can buy replacement metal gears too, which is handy to know. Wondering what to check next?





Thanks again,

Roger