Hi folks,

Wife's 2007 2.2 diesel Auto HSE has died. In a nutshell, it starts on the button and runs for a few seconds, reporting the Engine System Fault on the dash, then cuts out. With the air intake (organ pipes) completely removed, the car sits and ticks over?

I'm thinking something is blocked up, and causing the engine to suffocate, but I'm certainly no mechanic. With the intake hose refitted to the turbo and air filter housing, leaving just the short hose (oil return?) left disconnected, see the "borrowed" photo below circling what I believe is the PCV, I'm referring to the hose I've highlighted in green, the car runs, with a small trickle of oil dripping from said hose. There is some smoke when it's running, but I've yet to identify where it's coming from, looks to be down below, round the back of the engine, possibly the turbo, could it just be oil that's dripped from the hose and being burnt off?



If the object circled in the image, is the PCV, can this be cleaned up, or the filter inside be replaced? Can these become blocked? I couldn't work out how to remove it. Found a video on Youtube showing how to replace it as a whole unit on what I think might have been a petrol model, but there don't appear to be any obvious bolts.

Last piece of the story for now, a couple of months back, the car started making a metallic scraping noise, difficult to describe, which would only happen above about 1k revs, left to idle, no noise. I had a poke around, and noticed her engine oil was nearly on min, so topped it up, in fact, I over did it, by a fair chunk, so spent and age removing the excess oil over the next few days, as I'd need it to settle for hours before I could get a clear reading, the car wasn't started during these couple of days, as I was under the impression too much oil can be equally bad as too little. After the oil fiasco, I started the car and the noise was still present.

Wife took it to a garage, they initially diagnosed it to be a faulty power steering pump, replaced it and no difference (joy!). About a month later it cut out on her on the way home after a roughly 20 mile trip, wouldn't restart, AA called, they had no idea, said could be as bad as the engine/turbo, towed her home, cars sat on the drive since.

In the meantime we're trying to find a local mechanic who has a decent code reader which might give us more idea of what is wrong. Doesn't look like there are any cheap(ish) code readers for LRs?

If it would help, I can attempt to upload a short video of it running.

Any thoughts folks?

Thanks in advance,

Rog

Hi mate,
was it possible you watch a video based on a Freelander 1?
as the Freelander 2 uses a different system ie a crankcase oil separator,
I've not experienced any problems myself, but have a look at our sponsors for diagrams.
https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/dw12-cra...1224-c.asp

I'm sure someone will be a long soon with more knowledge on this issue.
Dave DAVE.

Thanks for replying. Just had a look again and this is the video, definitely a Freelander 2, but being American, I think it's likely a petrol model, but the rear pcv section looks similar. Not convinced my YouTube link will work, otherwise search lr2 pcv and you see what video I'm referring to.

https://youtu.be/DPi7Mgw9w8Y

Thanks again

Rog

Rog,
That's a 3.2 i6 Volvo engine, our 2.2TD4 is a ford PSA motor,
did you have a look at the diagrams on Advanced factors?
Dave DAVE.

Thanks again Dave. I didn't look at the diagrams earlier, got side tracked trying to find the video and post it here

Just looking now. I see it has an oil separator, could that be playing up, or be blocked in some way. I'm a bit of a BMW fan, and one of the weak points on my E46 is the oil separator, it can go brittle over time, and cause excessive oil consumption, probably nothing to do with it though!

I'll keep digging, and hopefully someone else might chime in.

Thanks

Rog

You say that with the air intake removed the car idles ok - does it also rev freely? I.e. does it feel ‘normal’ With the intake off? If so, that would seem to rule out all the major components like the turbo, throttle body, etc as they’re downstream of the intake. It sounds like it could be as simple as a blockage in the intake piping.

First thing to try is removing the air filter cover and the filter itself, having first replaced the intake pipe and associated piping. Does the engine still run ok? If not check the pipe between the filter housing and the intake pipe. If it does, check the pipe from the filter housing to the vent in the passenger side wing.

Cheers Pab,

I'll have look into that this afternoon, be great if it's just a blocked hose/pipe.

Friend has suggested similar, that it seems likely to be something up stream, his thoughts were the MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor). Can these be tricked, or cleaned, overridden, etc?

Thanks again

Rog

Try disconnecting the MAF sensor if it runs ok you will need to replace it only use a genuine part the cheap
Ones are rubbish

Air filter? When was that actually changed? Have a stickybeak to see if it is clean. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

without seeing and hearing its difficult, but the EGr valve could be stuck open, just removing the airflow meter may just be allowing enough air via the intake to actually run, rather than just recycled air via the EGR. this could possibly be the cause of the smoke as well. when EGrs are stuck fully open they will often fire and peter out.
just a thought.

With live data available via a tool this could be monitored to check rather than guess Jaguar x-type sport gone
Jaguar x-type 2.2d sport one of my best cars ever sadly gone
Freelander 2 GS auto 2008 most unreliable ever ! gladly gone
Freelander 2 GS manual 2013 only time will tell !

Not something as silly as the motorised valve - the one in the air intake, mounted at the front of the engine?

These can fail shut, and stop air from entering the manifold Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Apologies for not getting back sooner, one thing after another.

Once you've got an "engine system fault" message on the display, other than disconnecting the battery, is there any secret button presses or what not to reset it? Otherwise, how long roughly does the battery need to be disconnected? I tried 10 mins and still had the fault. Problem seems to be, once I'm at this point no amount of adding or removing engine parts allows it to run.

Mean while, I've just tried again, with the intake hose connected at the turbo end, and the oil hose connected. So the air filter and housing removed, air filter looks filthy by the way. MAF still wired into the filter housing, and presumably working. This resulted in it starting briefly and then cutting out causing the engine system fault message.

I'm wanting to lean towards the air filter and housing being ok, possibly even the MAF, but I want a clean start, engine running and able to rev as my starting point, then start testing and adding other components into the mix.

Leaving the battery disconnected for the next few hours, weather permitting I'll try again a bit later.

Any tips or guides on EGR removal, looks like it's at the back of the engine on top?

Thanks again

Roger

Yes change the air filter there is also a drain at the bottom of the box that is prone to blocking up.

Instead of messing about with the egr valve just fit a blank plate just loosen the two screw and slip the plate in retighten screws job done

Thanks again for input guys.

As for just blanking off the EGR, which looks easy enough based on YouTube, would this overcome a potentially faulty EGR based on OldGeezer's comments?

Thanks again

Roger