I experienced the 'Hibernation' problem on a MY2011 FL2.

Although I suspect that it must be in the programming of the CJB, and it has been reported many times on this, and other forums, I cannot seem to find any authoritive source describing what causes the shut down.

Examples of reports
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic8513.html
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic6254.html?highlight= FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

The radio must be manually turned off when leaving the car for an extended period of time.

My car can be left standing for long periods and I always top up the battery every two weeks but I still got locked out so for myself I know its not voltage related. After this happened to me the 2nd time I did an experiment quoted below:

"
Just an update to this as it has happened to me again, despite me waking the car up to reset the timer. The sequence of events was:

Standing for 2 weeks.
Battery charge top up. Unlocked and relocked car with fob to re-set timer.

Standing for 2 weeks
Battery charge top up. Unlocked and relocked car with fob to re-set timer.

Standing for 2 weeks
Battery charge top up. Couldn't unlock car.

So it appears that unlocking and relocking isn't enough to reset the timer, you probably need to insert the fob into the ignition or maybe even start it up to re-set the timer."



Also when investigating others experiences with this there is a lot of evidence that voltage wasn't an issue, I compiled some quotes from their outcomes:

"He did a battery check too and found the battery to be in good shape despite it being parked up for 31 days, so I hope this comes in handy to anyone else with door opening problems!"

"I have just returned after 4 weeks having left the FL2 locked in the drive. The car would not respond to the key and I had to gain admission using the key. The alarm sounded and was canceled when I inserted the key unit in the slot. The car was then unlocked and it started OK."

"a flat battery was definitely not the case with my problem, as the alarm was deafening all the time we tried to get in - and then it started straight away after about six weeks standing."


"Just had the same problem. Apparantly the electronics close down after a period. After 23 days - was still OK - opened the car. After 33 days not OK. John McC of Land Rover assist duly arrived. Battery voltage was establised as OK (about 12.3 volts) by checking volts at the caravan socket."


"Having just been away for 34 days, leaving my FL2 locked on the drive, I returned to find it would not respond to either keyfob. I got in via the passenger door using an emergency key, the alarm instantly sounded. Inserting a keyfob silenced the alarm and the car then started immediately with ease. After this, both keyfobs worked normally. "

"The car does indeed enter a sleep mode which is a battery saving feature. Tuning off the receiver electronics, among other none-essentials will help prevent total car battery discharge during long periods of standing. This makes sense to me.
The time period appears to be around 30 days, based on my own and other's experiences.
Neither the car's battery nor the keyfobs' batteries were in a discharged state. The issue was normal intentional behaviour by the car's electronics. "  
Hung like Einstein, smart as a horse.

andyk159 wrote:

Just another suggestion. Check your passenger manual door lock actually works before getting to the 4 week power down situation.

Had this happen on my daughter's Ford C-Max (another ford derived car as much of FL2 is) and door lock had seized from lack of use. Could not free up from outside. Ended up breaking one of quarter lights to force entry.

The Emergency key is inserted into the slot on the underside of the door handle cover.

The key moves 2 small lugs out of the way to release cover, and reveal manual door lock.

If you haven't used it for some time, the lug catch will be very stiff and perhaps a squirt of WD40 up slot might help.

Click image to enlarge

Thanks! I had tried inserting the key into the slot, but didn’t want to force it. In my experience, everything plastic on a vehicle really just wants to break at temps below about 10C...and it’s 4C out there today!  2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

andyk159 wrote:

Just another suggestion. Check your passenger manual door lock actually works before getting to the 4 week power down situation.

Had this happen on my daughter's Ford C-Max (another ford derived car as much of FL2 is) and door lock had seized from lack of use. Could not free up from outside. Ended up breaking one of quarter lights to force entry.

you should join the rac

Thanks for the post - that explains it!
Just went to get something out of my MY11 SD4 after it lying idle for about 4 weeks while under lockdown. Couldn't unlock it with either of the keys. Had to use the emergency key on the NS door, which was a little worryingly stiff to turn. (At least I knew it was unlikely to be seized as the lock mechanism was only replaced a couple of months ago!).
Never heard of the 4 week alarm timeout and can't find anything in the Owners Manual either.
After starting the engine briefly, both keys will now lock and unlock the vehicle.

A thought occurred to me about fob-charging - Will the keyfob charge just sat (fully engaged) or does the ignition need to be switched on, or engine running?

Cheers.

For those who only use their FL2 occasionally, I repeat this reminder.

DO NOT STORE YOUR FL2 WITH THE PASSENGER DOOR VERY CLOSE TO THE WALL.

Also as the weather gets colder you may also experience battery problems and the passenger door 'emergency key' may be on only way in, so aware of how you park up.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic38965.html?highlight=booster FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Another tip with two key fobs is to swop them every so often.
I swop mine on 1st of every month, keeps them topped up.
Must check the passenger door lock tomorrow,
Thanks. Jim A
Fl2 HSE 2010 auto
Disco 2Td5 auto 2002 gone
Disci 1 300Tdi auto 1996 gone

It's also worth checking the emergency key actually works in the lock. It's pretty common for the lock to seize, or possibly be replaced without swapping the key, which can leave the vehicle locked in a time out or flat battery situation. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I have just seen that the Weather Forecast is saying a drop to Winter Temperatures is expected next week.

Thus this reminder to not park your FL2 close against the nearside door as you may need to use the emergency key if your battery fails.

And, for newcomers to FL2 and Forum, I point out that the FL2 uses a lot of battery power so you need a good battery. A quick garage battery test does not always mean that the battery is good enough for the needs of a FL2.

Its not just starting either, a poor battery will cause random failures and fault codes as the electronic modules load up with a poor power supply.

This Thread is my tale of woe of ignoring the first signs of failure, and my measures to become reliable again.
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic38965.html?highlight=battery

You will notice my (now) very good kit of Battery Charger and Booster, and eventual buying the biggest Battery I could fit under the bonnet.

My advice is --- Don't wait until you are caught out on one cold and frosty morning --- FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)