Worms,
That's the 64 million dollar question and I can't tell you yet. What I can say is that all my connections after the turbo outlet show a lot of oil leakage despite them being checked as being fully tightened before fitting the provent. The connections now don't seem to have any fresh signs of leakage? I do plan to take everything out and flush / inspect and refit to get a proper assessment done but just never got the time because of running around after my kids in their houses!!

I have a new inter-cooler ready to fit and also picked up a face lift front bumper so will do all this at the same time but its going to be another month at least as I'm back at work. Another thing though, I swapped out my inlet manifold for a later model with no swirl flaps and the one i removed was pretty gunky inside. It was soft, and I guess soot / oil / condensation based. The plastic of the swirl flaps was whole but appeared harder and brittle.

My EGR valve is not blanked off and was having the normal hesitation and judder you get when these things go sticky so I swapped out for a new one and it's been fine since then, so I hope with the much reduced oil / moisture going into the inlet side there should be far less chance of build up and I get a smoother runner which should last a bit longer??

I like tinkering to be honest... 09 FL2 GS TD4e Current
16 DS HSE Black Current
13 FL2 GS TD4
11 FL2 GS TD4
10 FL2 XS TD4
56 FL1 TD4
72 S3, 6cyl 109 Truck Cab

So like LRJimmy, I have fitted a small container to the base of the Provent (fitted a catch can to my catch can !?!) . It's just a water bottle I cut down and glued back together. The picture below shows what I captured after just over 1000 miles, it was about 3cm worth of oil.

After examining the contents I'm quite glad I didn't feed it back into the sump, the oil was quite thick and sludgy at the bottom.

Click image to enlarge

Hello,
I've bought my LR last year, everything ok but i had a little problem last week, my LR get to limp mode , when I was at destination stop , start ( after 4 hours ) and problem disappear.
The local LR dealer analyze and told me it was an EGR problem ( probably it was blocked open).

The problem is not present again but I would like to install a catch can trying to avoid EGR problem.

Provent 200 ( Mann original ) from ebay is over 110 euro, I see in first pic that is fitting close to air filter, but where can i put the contaier below?

Thanks in advance

On this topic people are installing and talking about fitting an (additional) oil separator.
The car's oil separator is below the oil cap. In fact, when you pour the oil, it passes through the same oil separator.
Did you ever wonder why the hose from the oil separator is not fed directly to the air intake and is passed again through the upper part of the engine where is mixed again with some oil vapors?
There is a reason behind this... This oil vapors are used to lube and clean the intake valves stems !
On normal aspirated gasoline engines, where there is an intake throttle, the relative pressure inside the intake is generally negative, so the engine can draw, by suction, a small amount of oil besides valve stems seals, lubing the valve stems.
On a turbo engine, especially turbo diesel engines, the pressure inside the intake track is always positive. So the engine can't draw any oil as above, on the contrary, the oil is repelled at valve stems. Neither the fuel is not injected before valves, like on gasoline engines. So there is an imperative need to lube the valve oil stems.
On some industrial engines, with constant RPM, the return pipe from one of the injectors is redirected to the intake gallery, where it lubes and cleans the intake valves stems.
Here, on our application, the recirculated gases are mixed again on the top of the engine with some oil vapors to clean and lube the intake valves steams.
So, if I were you, I would think twice when installing such (additional) oil separators, which can leave the intake valves stems without the correct amount of lube, leading to an accelerated wear....
Just my 2 pence...

^^^^^Interesting titbit of relevant info on that model engine design! Thanks for the info.

So there are two school of thought:
- Install catch can avoiding sludge spreading into intake air and avoid soil deposit in EGR valve
- vapor oil ( this school don't use the word sludge ) is useful to lube valve stem, indeed engine project establish the vapor oil flow from crankcase positive oil ventilation to air intake duct : install a catch can is not only useless but it could be prejudicial to engine working principles.


This is not easy for a newbie.

Here the pic from service manual:
[/img]
Item Part Number Description
1 - Camshaft cover
2 - Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve
3 - Crankcase gas vent to air intake duct
4 - Oil filler cap
5 - Oil return tube
6 - Crankcase vent oil separator
7 - Crankcase gas ventilation tube - showing flow direction

alex_pescaru wrote:

On this topic people are installing and talking about fitting an (additional) oil separator.
The car's oil separator is below the oil cap. In fact, when you pour the oil, it passes through the same oil separator.
Did you ever wonder why the hose from the oil separator is not fed directly to the air intake and is passed again through the upper part of the engine where is mixed again with some oil vapors?
There is a reason behind this... This oil vapors are used to lube and clean the intake valves stems !
...
Here, on our application, the recirculated gases are mixed again on the top of the engine with some oil vapors to clean and lube the intake valves steams.
So, if I were you, I would think twice when installing such (additional) oil separators, which can leave the intake valves stems without the correct amount of lube, leading to an accelerated wear....
Just my 2 pence...

Sorry but the additional oil separator is placed after passing the upper part of the engine, just before connecting to air aspiration, so valves stems lubrification is not compromised.. , or I'm wrong?

"Sorry but the additional oil separator is placed after passing the upper part of the engine, just before connecting to air aspiration, so valves stems lubrification is not compromised.. Shocked , or I'm wrong?"

Alex is specifically referring to the intake valve stems which in fact do get a light dressing of oil vapour from the intake manifold every time they open. He refers to the valve stem part closest to the valve head. 2013 SD4 SE (hers)
2013 SD4 HSE (mine)
Ex: 2008 D3 V8 HSE
EX: 2000 D2 TD5

Yes, but the catch can is connected after point 3 in the pic above

When the engine is brand-new and the turbo seals are good etc there’s probably not a huge amount of oil mist in the air stream, by the time we’ve put a few hundred thousand miles on them there’s quite a bit of oil in the intake, a Catch can at that stage probably only reduces the oil mist rather than takes it away altogether.

Source of oil vapor (1) ----> Catch can (after 3) -----> Intake valves (after catch can)
Do the math...

The turbo, generally, has nothing to do with the oil mist present on the upper part of the camshaft cover....
And the blow-by gases are there from new, especially at idle RPMs.

What I’m saying is the concerns about lack of oil in the intake is probably not worth worrying about, as you well know the intake on a worn engine always has substantially more oil in it than healthy

I wouldn’t bother fitting one myself but each to their own

OK you , I'm sure for now I suspend catch can application.

a mini catch can sump at the joint that drips seems like the answer to me.. if the vapours have already liquified here then they arn't going on to the intake stems, they are just going to upset the turbo turbine blades.

or if you are a hacker, perhaps a pipe down to the under tray (that has a nappy already!). non return valve on said line so that it can't be a source of air.

alex_pescaru wrote:

On this topic people are installing and talking about fitting an (additional) oil separator.
The car's oil separator is below the oil cap. In fact, when you pour the oil, it passes through the same oil separator.
Did you ever wonder why the hose from the oil separator is not fed directly to the air intake and is passed again through the upper part of the engine where is mixed again with some oil vapors?
There is a reason behind this... This oil vapors are used to lube and clean the intake valves stems !
On normal aspirated gasoline engines, where there is an intake throttle, the relative pressure inside the intake is generally negative, so the engine can draw, by suction, a small amount of oil besides valve stems seals, lubing the valve stems.
On a turbo engine, especially turbo diesel engines, the pressure inside the intake track is always positive. So the engine can't draw any oil as above, on the contrary, the oil is repelled at valve stems. Neither the fuel is not injected before valves, like on gasoline engines. So there is an imperative need to lube the valve oil stems.
On some industrial engines, with constant RPM, the return pipe from one of the injectors is redirected to the intake gallery, where it lubes and cleans the intake valves stems.
Here, on our application, the recirculated gases are mixed again on the top of the engine with some oil vapors to clean and lube the intake valves steams.
So, if I were you, I would think twice when installing such (additional) oil separators, which can leave the intake valves stems without the correct amount of lube, leading to an accelerated wear....
Just my 2 pence...

do you have a link or reference to some reputable page backing up this view.

As someone who's work involves technical patents (often around engines etc) I turned to what I know and found this
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/y2016/0047283.html

describing the reasoning for routing pcv gasses via the cam cover, none of which include oil vapor travelling post turbo.
In fact the reasoning for using the cam case in the equation seems exactly the opposite. The valves are lubricated from the top as far as I have understood it, in any case if the valves needed air intake lubrication then the exhaust valves would never benefit from this would they? It all sounds a bit like a 2 stroke engine to me

from what I have read I would agree that putting a catch can in before the cam cover would be a bad idea (as you'd catch more oil), but I don't see the harm of one after the cam cover (3) in the picture.

Actually Even better I might put one right at the leaky joint, as by this time if it has liquified then it was definately not going in the engine as vapour so I am safe even if your desire for oil mist is accurate