Must admit the filters and oil look easier than I thought. I would have though and hour tops for labour time.
The auto box oil is like a Jag I used to have whereas again one does a few fills and empties. I am not a believer in run it until 150k way to much in my mind.
I will run it all past the local guys who are of the old school and know what they are talking about.

jules wrote:

This videodemonstrates the two filters :



But his filling is incorrect - you have to remove some after filling to the plug level.

There are several ways to change the auto box oil.
The problem is that a significant amount of old oil remains in the torque converter when the oil is drained from the bottom of the gearbox. So new new oil will mix with old when you drive the car. You can replace about 92% of the old oil with 3 exchange cycles.

Alternatively some garages use a continuous flushing machine to exchange the oil in one go.

Because there is no dipstick you use the inner sleeve of the drain plug to set the level - by in effect over-filling then let it drain out to the inner sleeve level at about 60C when the gearbox is running and after the shifter is moved through the gears.

The filter is harder to get at on Gen 4 and on later model FLs the propshaft flange is too wide to allow the pump to come out so you have to remove it.

Click image to enlarge

So its the pump filter which is the washable one that is hard to get at because the pump wont come out past the flange?
Presumably need to unbolt the propshaft and remove the flange with a bearing puller? Again Im assuming youd need some way of preventing the flange from turning as you undo it's retaining bolt?
Is the bigger filter removable without taking the flange off? Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Here is the flange tool but it's worth trying to get the filter off without one.


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LandRover-Drive...2223306903

£50 for that - crikey

Easy to make from if you have some scrap metal and a welder Jules

Bobupndown wrote:

So its the pump filter which is the washable one that is hard to get at because the pump wont come out past the flange?

Yes.

Here is the problem on the late models with Gen 4 and large flange - its very close to the pump cover



Here the propshaft is nearly off. You can see where the plates were.



Having removed the bolts and plates, you then use 2 bolts and a pack of plates to push another bolt back from the other side to force the propshaft out of the haldex flange



Here is the large haldex flange. It is wide and deep (which makes it awkward to attach a locking tool to prevent it turning whilst undoing the central nut. You can see the bolt pushed back through a unthreaded hole from the other side to force the propshaft out.



Sorry- this website rotates pics for some reason Jules

double post Jules

Here’s how I did my Gen 4 on my Evoque. Should be the same on a FL2, shouldn't it?

https://www.evoqueownersclub.co.uk/forum/2...tures.html Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

That post from the Evoque site is very helpful.

2 queries -
Did you have to still remove the large propshaft flange with the haldex out of the car to get the pump out?
Are the propshaft to haldex bolts difficult to remove, Ie does the propshaft turn as you are undoing these bolts?

Thanks. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

I keep seeing people scared of that black gel/muck found on pump and Haldex filters...
Take a look at this below:

Click image to enlarge

"2 queries -
Did you have to still remove the large propshaft flange with the haldex out of the car to get the pump out?
Are the propshaft to haldex bolts difficult to remove, Ie does the propshaft turn as you are undoing these bolts?"

Yes you need to remove the flange to get the pump out. I used an impact wrench to remove the nut and held the flange in a big vice in order to replace the bolt.

The propshaft to haldex bolts are easy to remove and replace. No problem with the propshaft turning. However, the Torx (male) heads on them can chew up easily if you are not careful. Next time I do mine I will use new bolts.

Yes, I used an impact wrench to take the flange off and put it on to enable me to remove the pump. I did consider grinding a small relief notch out of the rear of the flange to allow the nose of the pump to clear. I took my prop to Haldex flange bolts out with the wheels off the ground and the engine running. Reason being, the electronic handbrake comes on when switching the ignition off on the Evoque and you can't rotate the prop. Thinking about it now, I suppose I could have put the rear brakes into service mode... Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.