Haldex removed, dismantled, de-greased cleaned and dried. To be fair at 96k miles it wasn't as bad as I was expecting having seen pics on here. Fortunately I spotted the needle roller bearing in the end of the shaft had two missing! One turned up in the bottom of the clutch pack, I guess the other had disintegrated. The number on the bearing is F-230702.2 and not easy to find if searching with that number, it measures 16mm internal, 22mm external & 12mm length. I have found Simply Bearing stock them and a good quality unit is only £3.55, so car off the road till it arrives in a couple of days.

I'd just like to say a big thank you to all the contributors of this post, without the detailed description & photos I may not have had a go. Now I've done it, it's actually pretty straightforward and having found this broken bearing, I'm really glad it decided to service it! The service kit from Bell Engineering is excellent and worth every penny!

Anyone had any issues with the haldex pump not wanting to come away from the haldex body? Both bolts removed, and it's not budging. Mallet/hammer isn't being much of an incentive to it either, wondering how much i can mistreat her before i'm looking at a new haldex pump (250-300quid?).

Mine was pretty stuck, I gave it a squirt of penetrating fluid and left it half an hour, then a few sharp blows with a rubber mallet all round, then twisted a screwdriver in the small recess between it and the main body, it slowly lifted away.

Cheers Simon, will have another go at some point. What cleaning fluid you end up using? And nice job on the bearings!

I used Plus 10, which is a strong de-greaser, washed that out with water, I then used brake & clutch cleaner (general solvent cleaner) and finally dried with compressed air. Apparently its very rare for that bearing to go and replacements are not easy to find.

GreyTruck wrote:

Hi.

I did an in-situ fluid replace on the Haldex this weekend and was pretty alarmed at the crud in the oil. Any comments/advice if this is normal?

Click image to enlarge

I've done two of these now and I'm not 100% but this may be the remnants of grease from the main bearing.

That's where I found most of those deposits on mine.

Just had mine replaced and seems very noisy as if grabbing or catching when pulling off and when auto box is changing!! Only been there since it was put on so maybe the noise is supposed to be there but wasn't before as old Haldex didn't work

Anyway off to indy on Thursday and we are going to road test !!!! Will post result. thing.



 If it wasn't so bad it'd be funny.

🐑
Freelander 2 HSE auto 2014 ( Florrie ) ..... Try again.
Freelander 2 GS 2012...... Gone.

I've just started to get the "gearbox fault reduced traction message" with the selector light staying off. I'm pretty certain it's not a battery fault as I had it on the CTEK overnight and the fault remains on a fully charged battery.

The car is MY 14 registered in 2015 with very low miles (20,000 miles/30,000 kms) and rarely used off road.

A couple of questions if I may.

Could it be that the Haldex unit and pump just need a clean and filter change or is it most likely that a new pump is needed?

If I do need a new pump I'm assuming it's Gen 4. Will they be the same part for all models. including petrol (mine's an Si4)?

It will be good to have some ideas before going to LR dealer who will just want to swap out everything

Thanks. driving on the right side

Land Rover replace not repair I'm afraid so I wouldn't go near a dealer unless removing the Haldex and cleaning it is beyond your capability.

Look at page 13 for my full write up on removal and cleaning (including pictures).

Here is the part about checking cleaning the pump

Haldex Pump Removal & Cleaning
Remove the two bolts holding the Haldex pump to the Haldex housing
Withdraw the pump from the housing (it has two O-rings holding it in, so it may need a small, flat bladed screwdriver to help prise them apart)
There will be a flattish white plastic screen held in by machine two screws (Gen4), remove the screws, clean the screen thoroughly in degreaser and blow clean with compressed air
The pump end-plate can be removed by removing one additional machine screw (note, there are 6 sprung metal pegs inside which are the pump mechanism, remove with care so as not to lose the pegs or springs). Clean the pump.
Re-assemble the end plate and the screen in the reverse order
Remove the two machine screws that hold the motor cover onto the pump assembly
Clean with contact cleaner
Using a cotton bud, carefully clean the copper parts on the rotating shaft (these will have black deposits from the brushes)
Re-assemble cover in reverse order
If you have a multi-meter, set it to ohms and measure the resistance across the two plug connections – a good pump will should read between 5 & 8 ohms (following info from Haldex Repairs UK web-site):

A good pump will measure between 5 and 8 ohms. Below or above this spec highlights a defective pump. Bad pumps often read very high resistance values, very low, or open circuit. Connecting 12v to the pump to make it run is an option, but it is far from any kind of conclusive test method. Some pumps will be intermittent open circuit, e.g. they test OK some power cycles then test out of spec the next, this is due to worn motor brushes and commutator.

I've checked 2 pumps which were out of spec on resistance until they were cleaned and now work.

Hope you can do this yourself and save some money

@Mustang-Warbird thank you for taking the time to reply.

I've just read through your detailed post on p13 and I think I'd prefer to get someone else to have a look at it. There's a good LR independent here in Vilnius so i'll stop by and see if they'll give the Haldex a service, change the filter and clean the pump. If it clears the problem then fine and if not I've not lost much. I would imagine buying a new pump here will be an arm and two legs so that might have to wait until my next visit to UK. driving on the right side

Hello,

My haldex is leaking oil from the flange seal,

will anyone be kind enough to help me with the link for the seal or part number?

My haldex is generation 3.

Thank you

Would that be LR076676? Looks to be same part for both Haldex versions

Thank you. Will order it. Seems like it.

Question about that shaft seal...

Dealer replaced rear Diff in 2016, started getting noise and some traction warning a year later. Took it back to same dealer, they said the o-ring had been damaged when diff was replaced and some fluid leaked out. Must have been a very slow leak, obviously took a year to create a problem and I never saw a drop in the driveway. Fixed under warranty for the Diff.

So which fluid would have leaked out? Haldex or Diff?

Perhaps worth noting, dealer was Reno, Nevada, USA. We have a vacation house in the area and the San Diego stealership is such a POS that I try to plan any dealer work for the summer in Reno. Reno dealer seems pretty good by JLR standards.

If you look at the picture above, LR002888 is the only seal that could have been damaged. That retains the Haldex fluid, so should have been that, that was leaking. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
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Nanocom Evo II (also sold)