Sorry Hugh. I did not know you wanted to remove the runner bolt. This thread is about seat base removal, not removal of the runners or bolts.
I am presuming the cover/finisher you refer to is the plastic panel mounted across the front of the seat base on the HSE. (Lesser models do not have this cover). Although I have not removed this myself, an examination today with a torch and mirror confirmed that by powering the seat forward you can gain access to 2 philips self tappers each side (4 in total) that look to hold the cover mount plate on. These self tappers are just above, about 1" or so inside each runner area, pointing upwards and outwards at about 45 degrees. Once the cover is removed you should be able to power the seat rearwards to access the runner bolt(s).
Bob 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

irrespective of what Mav has to say, I would still recommend taking the time to slacken just one nut at the battery and disconnecting a battery lead when working in and around a seat to do any dismantling. I have another case just today of another person in business working on a seat of a late model Ford car, he disconnected the wiring under the seat and then turned the ignition on to move the car; easily done and hey presto fault codes!.
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A little aforethought, stops a little error of judgement coupled with a little mistake, leading to the need for a Fault Code reader and reset.
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I always try to give my thoughts and recommendations in order to help, its up to the reader to make up their own mind and choice.
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Kind regards from Fred

ive done this myself about 5 months ago
very simple to do
slide the seat back all the way and put your hand under the front of the seat,feel and remove the two bolts that go into the seat base
slide the seat forward and remove the two bolts that go into the seat base at the rear.
slide seat backwards again and lift the base off the frame,if you have heated seat when you lift the base there are two wires that need disconnectingfrom snap connectors.
no need to disconnect the battery "advise given by landrover service dept".
2 minute job

Warning - those 4 bolts may not be on your FL2 - spent too much time chasing the location of the rear two bolts that simply did not exist - see my lengthy posting @ 16.10.13 20:11hrs here:

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic16283.html

If you switch on the ignition on an FL2 without the drivers seat in place, when you put it all back together again, there are no fault codes and no air bag light on the dash.

The airbag light will be on whilst the seat is missing, but once connected the seat again the light will go out. Freelander 2 HSE Lux 2013MY - Barolo Black with Ivory Leather. Alpine DVD - Privacy -Evoque 20" Dynamic Wheels and more to come.........

fredastaire wrote:

I always try to give my thoughts and recommendations in order to help, its up to the reader to make up their own mind and choice.
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Kind regards from Fred

That's a fair point, and know one can ever accuse you of doing anything other than that. I only stated that sometimes you can over complicate things.  Freelander 2 HSE Lux 2013MY - Barolo Black with Ivory Leather. Alpine DVD - Privacy -Evoque 20" Dynamic Wheels and more to come.........

thanks all for the guidance.... My Freelander (0 had only two bolts holding the seat base in.. easy...ish. Seat base has been re-padded and feels like a new seat!!! Highly recommended for anyone with an older Freelander. 2008 TD4 ripe for mods

I know that this has been discussed in the past but unfortunately I cannot get the images embedded into older posts to load. I need to remove the squab from the drivers seat of my 2007 FL2 HSE to have the side bolster repaired - a split has developed in the leather. The squab filling foam is also a lot thinner than it used to be so I may as well have that replaced at the same time?

Would anyone be kind enough to run through the procedure again (with pictures if available) to help me get the squab out so that I can take it to my local upholsterer to repair. He is the same one that the local LR dealer uses but I suspect they would charge a lot to remove the base for me, and then of course I'd be unable to drive the car back home until the squab was repaired and replaced.

Thanks in advance,

Rob

There is an occupancy sensor in seat base which is part of the airbag SRS system. 2014 SE Loire Blue SD4 Auto (MY15)
Gone - 2011 GS Baltic Blue, Retrofit Electric Leather, Side Steps, 19"SC's, Roof Rails, TT Sat Nav Mod, Retrofit Premium Audio, Retro fit 2013 Xenons with DRL & Sig Strip (Clutch at 47k)
Gone - 2007 GS Narvik Black, Privacy Glass, 19" SC's, Side Steps,Roof Rails, Roof Spoiler, Lamp Guards, Retrofit Electric Leather (Clutch at 115k)
Gone - 2007 SE Santorini Black (Clutch at 120k)
BT IID (best money ever spent on a car)

IslandGPS wrote:

Would anyone be kind enough to run through the procedure again (with pictures if available) to help me get the squab out so that I can take it to my local upholsterer to repair. He is the same one that the local LR dealer uses but I suspect they would charge a lot to remove the base for me, and then of course I'd be unable to drive the car back home until the squab was repaired and replaced.

Thanks in advance,

Rob

hey I have completed this job thanks to the posts replaced the Front seat cover took me about 5 hrs and a bit fiddly but worth it and used the ties do not use the hog rings it will take you forever
Just as update on this that bolt near the door is a pig to get out mind so you remove the plastic side cover 2 screws one at front and one at back you can then remove the 2 screws that hold that big electrical block which is screwed to the runner the opposite electrical block comes of easily with a screw. Removing both blocks makes it much easier to get access to the bolts and unscrew the seat.

The front drivers leather seat cover has split, l have obtained a new Land Rover cover and need help on removing the front cushion. I have read Mav71's information. Can anyone help with the location of the 10mm bolts that hold the front cushion to the frame?

There not easy to see but the sit “in” the black bar that run across the front of the seat(there steel/silver coloured) . You can get access to them with the seat in the car. Once removed the seat base lifts at the front then pull it forward. There are some cable clipped to the base but you should have enough room to pull the clips from the base. I'm doing the same tomorrow!

slide the seat back all the way and put your hand under the front of the seat,feel and remove the two bolts that go into the seat base

There are only 2 bolts in the front but as I did it is worth removing the electrical plugs held by screws to gain easier access to them and then disconnect the wiring as you lift it out.

Good luck and plenty of voltarol may be needed as your back gets into all contorted positions , be patient putting the new cover on with the ties to ensure that cover does not ripple up, the more time you take the better the result.  FL2 2008 165K
Owned From new - sad but just can't part with it
Upgraded LED Hal Front and Rear LED lights
Rear spoiler, facelift Tailgate handle, total surround sound
Steel boot and door treadplates
Upgraded dolby surround sound
chrome fog bezels

Hiya,

Would anyone have the part numbers for both LH and RH seat base foams?

Both of mine need replacing, as well as a repair to the RH stitching of the leather upholstery.

Thanks

Greg