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Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Drivers seat base removal.. |
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Steve D Member Since: 19 Jan 2013 Location: Essexshire Posts: 4109 |
I knew I'd seen it on here somewhere.
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8th Feb 2014 7:35 am |
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fredastaire Member Since: 03 Dec 2012 Location: Holbrook Posts: 721 |
Whilst I can't add info on the nuts and bolts aspect I would advise that you start by undoing the battery and waiting say 10 minutes before starting.
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8th Feb 2014 11:07 am |
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dunkley201 Member Since: 09 Jul 2011 Location: Lincolnshire Posts: 2739 |
The seat squab can be removed without taking the whole seat out - as per Mav71's write-up. There are two 10mm bolts under the front edge holding the seat to the frame. If yours is an HSE you will need to remove the front finisher first. There is only one electrical connection on the driver seat squab, a green plug for the seat heater. No airbag issues. There are other cables that will need to be unclipped though. Once out, the squab can be turned upside down to remove the cover. Start at the front by unclipping the plastic tangs that engage with the seat pan. Finish by removing the black u-section strip from the seat pan at the rear. The seat cover is held and shaped to the foam by metal 'O' rings which will need to be opened up with pliers to release. (When refitting use plastic cable ties - much easier). The seat heater can be removed without damage from the old foam if you are careful. I used a Palette knife to press down on the foam rather than pull the heater mat up. Use Copydex or similar to glue the heater mat to the new foam. Re-assembly and refitting is a reverse of removal "as they say". Good luck!
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8th Feb 2014 2:46 pm |
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fredastaire Member Since: 03 Dec 2012 Location: Holbrook Posts: 721 |
Well written Bob, your script is nice and definitive for other forum members reading in the future.
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8th Feb 2014 3:38 pm |
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dunkley201 Member Since: 09 Jul 2011 Location: Lincolnshire Posts: 2739 |
Thank you Fred. I dashed that off quickly before going out. Thinking of it was like I did the job last week..... Come to think of it, so I did! I also sewed in a new faux leather side panel, but that is another story....
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8th Feb 2014 7:07 pm |
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Luckygrizzly Member Since: 08 Aug 2013 Location: Melbourne Posts: 34 |
That's why I love this forum!!! Thanks for all the advice, will attack the seat squab as soon as the weather drops below 40 degrees..... No need for seat heaters in OZ! 2008 TD4 ripe for mods |
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8th Feb 2014 7:50 pm |
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dunkley201 Member Since: 09 Jul 2011 Location: Lincolnshire Posts: 2739 |
Lucky! Here in UK we do NOT want to know about 40 degrees etc! You really know how to pi** a guy off! 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)
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8th Feb 2014 11:00 pm |
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Luckygrizzly Member Since: 08 Aug 2013 Location: Melbourne Posts: 34 |
A toss of the coin.... driving rain and some flooding or 40 degree heat and bush fires ... Who said the weather is changing??? grin 2008 TD4 ripe for mods |
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9th Feb 2014 2:51 am |
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v40mav Member Since: 27 Aug 2011 Location: Scotland Posts: 36 |
Guys - I need to remove the drivers seat for a small mod - and whilst I have seen the posts that point to the bolts etc - are the plastic covers held on in a special way?
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12th Feb 2014 8:03 pm |
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dunkley201 Member Since: 09 Jul 2011 Location: Lincolnshire Posts: 2739 |
v40mav - I have just looked at the HSE and SE I have parked up outside. Where the SE has just "space" between the inner and outer rails, the HSE has a steel plate on to which the finisher panel is attached. Slide the seat well forward, and underneath you will see 2 x philips screw heads each side, head down, at a 45 degree angle. It looks like these secure the plate and finisher. They will also secure some electrical items, but this will become more clear when you remove them. Hope this helps.... Let us know how you get on!
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13th Feb 2014 2:08 pm |
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Mav71 Member Since: 15 Nov 2008 Location: Leicester Posts: 2575 |
You are really over complicating things Fred. The seat base as already done by myself can be removed without going anywhere near the airbag, which is in the seat back. You don't have to even remove the seat, as mentioned by Bob above. Freelander 2 HSE Lux 2013MY - Barolo Black with Ivory Leather. Alpine DVD - Privacy -Evoque 20" Dynamic Wheels and more to come......... |
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13th Feb 2014 7:13 pm |
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v40mav Member Since: 27 Aug 2011 Location: Scotland Posts: 36 |
Thanks. It's the plastic covers that go over the front runner/bolt Will try to get pic to show what bit I mean Disco 3 HSE Defender Puma 110 Freelander 2 HSE |
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13th Feb 2014 7:30 pm |
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dunkley201 Member Since: 09 Jul 2011 Location: Lincolnshire Posts: 2739 |
What I called the "finisher" is what you call the "plastic cover". You don't need to go anywhere near the front runner/bolt. That stays fitted. The bolts to remove the seat base are under the seat front lip and go "up" into the seat base. You can get at these once the front plastic cover/finisher is removed as above.
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13th Feb 2014 8:02 pm |
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v40mav Member Since: 27 Aug 2011 Location: Scotland Posts: 36 |
Bob thanks for the reply. I perhaps didn't explain it right at the start. It is this bit and the runner bolt that needs to come out temporally to get.
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13th Feb 2014 11:00 pm |
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