Got the front of the car up on axle stands for the first time today. Removing the engine shield revealed what looks like a substantial oil leak that looks like its been going on for some time. The heat shield is saturated! I will need to get things all cleaned up with some gunk to reveal where the oils coming from but are there any known likely 'leak' spots on these engines to check?

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Rear Crank seal ?

Sump gasket is prone to leaks.

Thanks for the input guys. The oil's kind of all over so suggests an oil leak higher up.....rear crank seal certainly possible. A big job to fix? A basic question but whats the pipe that runs under the engine...looking like an exhaust pipe but isnt  2010 FL2 TD4 GS

Just had my rear crank oil seal done by a local independent cost me £600. I described the problem to the service guy and he told me the cause of the oil leak without seeing the car. He told me they were doing one at the time and had another booked in.

The joker is the seal itself is only eleven quid to buy its getting to it that costs.

I did the two front seals myself, front crank and front cam, when I did the water pump timing and serpentine belts.

BTW the metal pipe is the part of the air flow system, the rubber pipes cause problems so need checking every so often.

Bilt Hamber surfex Hd a stiff brush and a pressure washer should do the trick .

Mark 2009 FL2 TD4 SE (Sadly gone)
2007 FL2 TD4 GS (The wifes , gone after 8 great years)
2012 FL2 SD4 SPORT LE(Gone and missing it)
2015 DISCOVERY SPORT 2.2SD4 HSE (Now gone)
2014 Ford Bmax 1.0 ecoboost ( Gone but what next )
2014 Ford Focus 2.0tdci Zetec S (Gone,but what a car)
2020 Ford Fiesta ActiveX 1.0 Ecoboost
2024 Skoda Kodiaq 1.5 Tsi SEL

I Like Chips wrote:

Just had my rear crank oil seal done by a local independent cost me £600. I described the problem to the service guy and he told me the cause of the oil leak without seeing the car. He told me they were doing one at the time and had another booked in.

The joker is the seal itself is only eleven quid to buy its getting to it that costs.

I did the two front seals myself, front crank and front cam, when I did the water pump timing and serpentine belts.

BTW the metal pipe is the part of the air flow system, the rubber pipes cause problems so need checking every so often.

Thanks! Having posted above I googled rear crank seal......wish I hadn't
Gear box out to fix! Well if it is rear crank seal its not just that I think as oil is covering sump pan as well...all over really. Need to get it all cleaned up as a first step....then take it from there. I need to do the timing belt anyway so as you have done it makes sense to do the front seals while there.....good suggestion  2010 FL2 TD4 GS

I had the matting/covering took off the undertray on my wifes Fl2 and had the bottom of the engine steamcleaned . If the gearbox has to come out it's worth considering putting a new cllutch in perhaps .

Mark 2009 FL2 TD4 SE (Sadly gone)
2007 FL2 TD4 GS (The wifes , gone after 8 great years)
2012 FL2 SD4 SPORT LE(Gone and missing it)
2015 DISCOVERY SPORT 2.2SD4 HSE (Now gone)
2014 Ford Bmax 1.0 ecoboost ( Gone but what next )
2014 Ford Focus 2.0tdci Zetec S (Gone,but what a car)
2020 Ford Fiesta ActiveX 1.0 Ecoboost
2024 Skoda Kodiaq 1.5 Tsi SEL

GaryLaird wrote:

Thanks! Having posted above I googled rear crank seal......wish I hadn't
Gear box out to fix! Well if it is rear crank seal its not just that I think as oil is covering sump pan as well...all over really. Need to get it all cleaned up as a first step....then take it from there. I need to do the timing belt anyway so as you have done it makes sense to do the front seals while there.....good suggestion

bxzx16v wrote:

I had the matting/covering took off the undertray on my wifes Fl2 and had the bottom of the engine steamcleaned . If the gearbox has to come out it's worth considering putting a new cllutch in perhaps .

Mark

Wonder what the purpose of the mating is? Did LR know their engines were going to leak like so needed incontinence pads on the undertray to disguise the fact  2010 FL2 TD4 GS

I Like Chips wrote:

GaryLaird wrote:

Thanks! Having posted above I googled rear crank seal......wish I hadn't
Gear box out to fix! Well if it is rear crank seal its not just that I think as oil is covering sump pan as well...all over really. Need to get it all cleaned up as a first step....then take it from there. I need to do the timing belt anyway so as you have done it makes sense to do the front seals while there.....good suggestion

That's why I had a garage do it. ( done at 82,000miles ) You might be lucky with it just being the sump seal. All the best with it.

BTW Did you mention you had a Fuel Pump Authorisation fault code show up? I have come to the conclusion that it is a communication error rather than a real wiring fault. Could be something to do with the key fob module communication but I am no expert. It has never created any real problems for me other that logging a fault.

Yep I think a gearbox removal would be a step too far for me at this time as well!

No Fuel Pump code on mine.....although I have just about everything else  2010 FL2 TD4 GS

bxzx16v wrote:

Bilt Hamber surfex Hd a stiff brush and a pressure washer should do the trick .

Mark

 2010 FL2 TD4 GS

GaryLaird wrote:

bxzx16v wrote:

I had the matting/covering took off the undertray on my wifes Fl2 and had the bottom of the engine steamcleaned . If the gearbox has to come out it's worth considering putting a new cllutch in perhaps .

Mark

Wonder what the purpose of the mating is? Did LR know their engines were going to leak like so needed incontinence pads on the undertray to disguise the fact

Soundproofing and to help stop any resonance in what is a large metal plate. Does become a pain when you have an oil leak!

The >13MY has a revised undertray (longer) and NO soundproofing in it whatsoever. It's just a piece of sheet steel.

SYFL2 wrote:

Sump gasket is prone to leaks.