Tigertim wrote:

I know what you mean as I recon one of us would have figured this out by now but as the bearing theory is not visible or easy to check that could be the answer .... sort of hope one day it goes bang and it will show it’s self . Later I will compile a list of things I’ve done so you can check them off yours ...

I’d say that as you’ve had a new box fitted and also clutch etc it must be something on that line or something not been put back right/tightened up maybe I’d check everything that’s been unbolted / removed etc . The problem a lot of us are having is mainly with the autos and nobody has yet found the cause , so far for me I have done the following and still no closer,
Replaced crank pulley
New crank sensor
New MAP sensor
New timing belt /water pump
New serpentine belt and tensioner
Changed lower engine mount
Engine oil/ filter change
Haldex oil/ filter change
EGR blanked / unblanked
Swapped wheels round
Tightened front subframe bolts
Tightened / checked all exhaust mountings
Removed / cleaned throttle body
Replaced n/s front driveshaft found tiny bit of play
Removed / checked all other engine mounts
Recent MOT checked all bushes / ball joints all ok
No excess play found in all other driveshafts prop joints and bearings
No excess play in flange out of transfer box and haldex
No splits leaks in turbo pipes and inter cooler
Turbo actuator checked moves ok

I’ve driven round now for a week or so with haldex fuse out and at first thought it stopped but i was wrong it still the same vibes but it is confined to the front and all disabling the haldex does is stop the vibrations ressonating through the prop to the rear . I believe a fault in many items would be constanty showing, it is the fact this issue only occurs at the same rpm that keeps me thinking it could now either be a torque converter problem ( as I think lock up occurs at 1800 rpm ),gearbox bearing or maybe even a fuel injection issue. It’s really annoying because mine still pulls like a train and flies when you put your foot down it’s just horrible to drive now ... Tim

Front PTU? Nose bearings are made out of chocolate and prone to fail. If there is excess play from the propshaft into aforementioned, then that's your issue. Also, don't discount spline shaft from transmission could be stripping/stripped already.

Hi, Update on vibration on acceloration. I removed fuse FB6 (fuse box in rear load space) haldex disabled, warning light on dash. I drove for about 10 miles various speeds 30-60 through manual box. All of a sudden there was one allmighty thud from the rear axle and the whole rear end started shuddering violently. I limped to a lay by & emptied the s**t from my pants. I replace the fuse FB6 and tentetively set off. What a transformation the whole car just seems much more free running. there is still a very slight vibration which, i can live with. I have noticed the stiffnes has gone from the drivetrain, i am getting better fuel economy & the all terrain system works fine.
My thoughts are: is the haldex clutch somehow jamming up and causing this monumental vibration for everyone?
When the snow clears i am going to remove the haldex and give it a good service ensuring the clutch is running free.Will keep you posted.
Hope this is of help to you folks.

Hi,

Has anyone replaced their engine mounts ever? If so, any change noteced in the vibration? For me this seems to be one of the most obvious reasons?!

Pal

If you look at Tims comprehensive list you will see he lists the lower engine mounts as one of the parts he's changed.
Having said that, when changing my driveshaft I did think the engine/gearbox movement seemed 'excessive'

Last edited by markyzs180 on 2nd Feb 2019 8:29 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Tigertim wrote:

I’d say that as you’ve had a new box fitted and also clutch etc it must be something on that line or something not been put back right/tightened up maybe I’d check everything that’s been unbolted / removed etc . The problem a lot of us are having is mainly with the autos and nobody has yet found the cause , so far for me I have done the following and still no closer,
Replaced crank pulley
New crank sensor
New MAP sensor
New timing belt /water pump
New serpentine belt and tensioner
Changed lower engine mount
Engine oil/ filter change
Haldex oil/ filter change
EGR blanked / unblanked
Swapped wheels round
Tightened front subframe bolts
Tightened / checked all exhaust mountings
Removed / cleaned throttle body
Replaced n/s front driveshaft found tiny bit of play
Removed / checked all other engine mounts
Recent MOT checked all bushes / ball joints all ok
No excess play found in all other driveshafts prop joints and bearings
No excess play in flange out of transfer box and haldex
No splits leaks in turbo pipes and inter cooler
Turbo actuator checked moves ok

I’ve driven round now for a week or so with haldex fuse out and at first thought it stopped but i was wrong it still the same vibes but it is confined to the front and all disabling the haldex does is stop the vibrations ressonating through the prop to the rear . I believe a fault in many items would be constanty showing, it is the fact this issue only occurs at the same rpm that keeps me thinking it could now either be a torque converter problem ( as I think lock up occurs at 1800 rpm ),gearbox bearing or maybe even a fuel injection issue. It’s really annoying because mine still pulls like a train and flies when you put your foot down it’s just horrible to drive now ... Tim

Sorry, I've missed that...anybody changed the torque converter yet?
Seems to be an obvious choice, as as mentioned before it locks up around 1800 rpm...

My mrs keeps telling me to take it to a garage and let them sort it but after 30 years of doing virtually all my own vehicle repairs I’m reluctant to pay someone to tell me “ well it could be this or could be that “, as I think the next step would be removing gearbox and transfer box for a deeper investigation. Really need someone who knows these engines and transmissions inside out to drive it and say ...oh I know what that is it’s your ........ that’s gone . I’ve not much confidence in main dealers as they would probably just want to replace everything until it fixed it and I’d spent 10 grand lol . Between us we might get it one day .. mine is deffo getting worse and I’ve just took up an offer from AA to upgrade to full relay recovery for £20 so they can bring me home when it does go with a bang ...

Pal wrote:

Sorry, I've missed that...anybody changed the torque converter yet?
Seems to be an obvious choice, as as mentioned before it locks up around 1800 rpm...

Ive changed fluid on mine, even more occasion, makes absolutely no difference...

"Spoke to a friend at land rover apparently the main I think 6or 8 bolts that hold the front cradle to the body can work loose quite a common problem by rights or the captive nuts inside the body welds break which cause this vibration at certain rev ranges I hit the what can only be described as a subframe brace from underneath before I found this out and it sounds just like the noise I get with the vibration I'll be under the car tomorrow to check the bolts fingers crossed"

Saw this on another thread, anyone else considered this?

Cant wait to see hear if whether youve found any loose bolts...could be the cause as the noise indeed hears like metal on metal vibration....let us know!

My cradle was removed like 3 years before, due to crankshaft seal change, but at that time the mechanic did not mention about any broken bolts....as a matter of fact i did not have the vibration neither back then

I can rule that one out for us as I nipped up all my subframe bolts and also levered on the joints mine was rock solid ... still worth you checking especially if it’s been off before ...

Just got this from a guy on Facebook, he says is our rear diff