Hi everyone, I've just joined Freel2 and this problem was my main motivation for joining as I wanted to share the following with anyone who's interested.

I have a 2010 GS TD4.e manual and had similar vibration problem, 50-60mph around 1600-1800 rpm, normally I feel it through the steering wheel, driver's seat and floor. My wife has also said she feels it in the passenger seat and floor.
Since owning the car (almost a year), I always had a whine from the steering on full lock. This noise never bothered me but a couple of weeks back I saw a puddle of oil under the car. I took it to my garage and they said one of the pipes at the pump had failed and they decided to change both as a precaution. I've used the garage for many years and trust them so I didn't have an issue with this.

This could be a coincidence but the car has never vibrated since.

Hi, thanks for your post, what pipes were changed? this vibration is so annoying I'm willing to try anything,

Thanks,

Jason.

Hi Jase... I'm not sure to be honest, the mechanic said he replaced both pipes at the pump if that's any help?

If you could ask the garage what pipes were replaced would be a great help, I'm trying to think what pipes it could be,

Jase - when I say pipes, I mean hoses.

I've looked at the receipt and its got the following-

LLR001099 Hose £62.23 +VAT
LLR029185 Hose £51.15 +VAT

My garage is an independent and not an LR Dealership so I'm not sure if the hoses are LR original equipment or not.

Hope this helps.

As like jase the vibration problem drives me mad at 1800/2000 rpm and I have tried all sorts to find the cause mostly focusing on drivetrain side of things however this thread which says vibration disappeared after power steering was worked on got me thinking could our problem lie more on the engine and associated items running off it, so today I took off the serpentine drive belt and started up, obviously the lack of charging brought on the battery light and no power steering but instantly the engine was ticking over so much quieter and with loads less judder and vibration so next step was to go for a drive rather cautiously without assisted steering and draining battery and I can say it drives so much smoother and could hardly notice any excessive vibration . So maybe it could lie with a power steering pump or belt tensioner or even crank pully.
Tomorrow I will check all these items and hopefully find something . Any thoughts or experiences appreciated .

Hi Tigertim, I look forward to your next post, it's interesting to hear other people's experiences.
Something I forgot to mention in my original post was that the car would very occasionally have a slight vibration through the steering wheel whilst stopped at a traffic light or junction. It was reading your response that reminded me this happened albeit not often enough for me to think of it as connected. Coupled with what you've discovered I'd bet on a PAS pump or hose issue?

If it's that simple, I do sympathise with anyone who's spent a fortune replacing all sorts of parts unnecessarily.
I'm really curious now!

This is getting very interesting, my steering wheel has a slight vibration as if the wheels need balancing, I've had the wheels balanced at 3 different garages and I still get this slight shake on the steering wheel but the vibration is something else, I'll remove the belt tomorrow and take it for a drive, I'll let you all no tomorrow how I get on.

Well after a long drive with no belt using all gears and different driving styles and then same drive with belt back on I can defiantly conclude my vibration is coming from the engine side of things nothing to do with anything on transmission side. No pulleys seem to have any excessive play and although the belt tensioner does wobble a bit it has got good tension . One thing I noticed when I put belt back on was juddering vibration through steering wheel. Also after starting from cold the power steering pipes were really hot after just 5 minutes ticking over so I’m thinking it’s something to do with it . I did replace resovoir last year as filter was blocked . See what you come up with jase .

yes I'll give it a try tomorrow and let you know,

Hi guys, I havn t removed the fan belt from my car yet as I've been busy but I have been looking in to this and have found that an AC pump can cause vibration and as the fan belt drives this it's worth checking, this is what it says to check,

This is a common cause of vibrations in most cars. If the compressor of the AC is bad, then your car will vibrate. Here’s how you can check if the compressor is weak:

When the car is idle, turn the AC on and accelerate to a maximum then let it decelerate. During this time, if you hear any clinking noises and the compressor goes off for a while, then it is a confirmation that the compressor is weak. If you want to confirm this further, then you can check the pressure of the compressor with a gauge.

Ok so my update so far ... fitted a new drive belt as I noticed a sight lump in it .. no difference also noticed crank pulley has a slight wobble so have managed to secure one at a very good price so fitting it as soon as it arrives .. replacing the cheapest things first to eliminate them ... will now have a closer check on air con pump ..

thanks for the update, I'm confident between us we will get this sorted, I'm thinking psp or ac pump or it could be alternator as these are the three thing driven by the belt, if I'm driving on the flat or up hill it vibrates like mad but at the same speed and rpm going down hill there's no vibration, speak soon Jase.

The alternator pulley has a built in one way clutch that is there to stop the fan belt oscillating in certain conditions. It can give either clicking, rattling, or slipping type of noise.

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic21181.html

If you goggle search 'alternator pulley noise' you will find that it is common problem with lots of cars.

May be worth considering checking the pulley. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Just a thought.
Although the FL2 has balancer shafts built in to counteract vibration, a 4 cylinder engine has a natural frequency of about 935rpm. Various harmonics of this i.e. 1870rpm will cause the engine to vibrate. The worst vibrations are normally around 4000rpm for a 4 cylinder car.
The engine mounts should be tuned to keep the vibrations from rocking the car, unless they fail.

The following link has a link to a word document which shows the amplitude of some of these vibrations/harmonics.
https://www.maintenance.org/topic/harmonics-in-4-cylinder-engine


I think you have ruled this out by running quieter without the belt, but worth keeping in mind when looking at noise. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)