Thanks very much for the update, I don't have any noise it's lovely and quiet but just has a bad vidration through the car at 1800rpm, I'll check out the link that you sent,
Jase.

Interesting to note that heat from PAS hoses.... I must check mine as they're newly fitted.... Will let you know if there's anything to report.

Just as an experiment, I compared my FL2 and my wife's Honda Jazz, for engine resonance periods. (in neutral)

The Jazz (1.2l petrol) has slight resonance at about 1800-2000rpm, and very slight at 3700rpm, otherwise it is very smooth.

My FL2 has a very, very slight resonance at 1500rpm, and thereafter impressively smooth up to 4500rpm.

And yes, my FL2 is substantially noisier than the Jazz to an observer outside, but inside the cars there is not much difference.

So I think that you should not notice much vibration inside a FL2 (unless something is faulty), as it seems to have been tuned out during design. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Well after a long afternoon fitting a new crank pulley I can confirm this is now ruled out . So power steering is the next thing to look at, once again fluid really hot after just a few minutes with engine ticking over and after reading some discussions on web seems a sticking valve can cause fluid to boil ? Problem could lie here somewhere . You had any luck jase?

No luck as yet but I'm convinced the vibration is coming from the PSP I'm going to try and bleed the power steering to see if that helps I'll let you no how I get on Tim.

Well I’m back to thinking my problem is a haldex problem as I’ve been driving round for a few days now with the haldex fuse removed and virtually no vibration like a different car. jase the fuse is in the boot fb6 maybe you could try and see what you think you will get an error message on start up . Not really sure how to check haldex workings and I have no fault codes and did change oil and filter 6 months ago . It’s weird mine vibrates just before it changes gear 1800 rpm ish ( it’s auto) then once changed goes away till the next gear mainly 4th 5 th and 6 th so not really understanding how disabling haldex is making the difference maybe the gearbox torque converter locks up before gear changes thus if haldex wrongly engaged will mean full locked up transmission giving vibration?. My diff seems fine no noise or leaks etc .Have read there are software updates for haldex so anyone any ideas thoughts etc would be welcomed thanks

Hi Tim, thanks for the update, I was thinking that a while back but the garage I go to were adament it wasn't the hedex but I tended to differ, when you put the fuse back in did the eror go? I'm in france at the moment and don't want any issues while here, I'm not sure if I've mentioned this in a previous post but when driving on the flat or up hill the car vibrates really bad but if I'm doing the same speed at the same rpm down hill it drives fine with no vibration, I've also seen on brit parts wedsite that there's a rear dif torque sensor but when I've looked I can't seem to see it, if the error goes when you put the fuse back in I'll try it tomorrow so if you could let me know that would be great,

Jas. .

Hi the error message is only there because the fuse is out as it realises there is power missing and dissapeares soon as fuse put back . Problem is it’s really difficult for a lot of garages to correctly diagnose unless they are familiar with them and also have the right equipment.

Thanks for that Tim, I'll try it tomorrow and let you no ASAP

Hi Tim, I've just made a trip to the super market with the fuse removed and I had no vibration, on the way back I put the fuse back in and the car was vibrating, even tho it didn't vibrate I'm still thinking that the root cause could be the psp, is fuse 6 for the heldex unit or the heldex pump or both? let me no your thoughts.

jase.

As far as I can tell it stops power to the whole unit ie totally disengaged .It really is doing my head in now the fact that I can’t pin it down so I’m going to speak to a transmission place or have a drive there and just ask for a dealer level diagnosis on the haldex as I’m also not convinced. Not very happy at the moment just changed a broken front spring and ended up snapping off the bolt which holds driveshaft into the hub......now need a new driveshaft .

Anyone tried replacing the oil in their auto transmission to cure this vibration issue? I had a vibration issue similar to what you guys are describing in that at a constant speed as I approached a gradient the revs at 1800rpm ish and the car would shudder
Until it changed down and the shudder would stop. Any way it went away after I changed the auto fluid.

I replace the auto box fluid two weeks back and I've still got the Vibration 1700/2000 RPM under load,
although it's not so noticeable, I'm tending to think more torque converter,
Dave DAVE.

I get this vibration and I've got a manual...

Does seem to affect both autos and manuals so hopefully we can rule out auto box and torque converter now.