+1 for Tanya and +1 for Varta - Silver or AGM.

Just be aware that Tanya battery selector is a bit rubbish.

Easy enough to check your measurements and then you have the correct battery (from memory 315x175x190)

Sensible folk on here pre-empting that dead battery!

One way you can tell if the battery is going I have found is to use a cigar lighter voltmeter - if the battery is sound, there should be periods when the battery is not being charged by the car and the volts will drop to well under 13 volts. It will rise over 14 on overrun. If the volts are nailed high, the battery is coming to the end of it's life. It's counter intuitive, but ranging volts implies a strong battery, but fixed high volts suggests the opposite.

Think I've had my Duracell heavy duty a bit over a year now it's been excellent,just because it's what I do I put it on a conditioning charge this week ready for winter,car gets short runs and I thought it wise.

Just replaced mine with 80Ah Varta from Tayna having had 2 non starts in 2 days. Was still original LR so 8 years old, not bad going, but time for a change. Excellent service and great price. Ordered 1pm, arrived next day 2 pm. Andy
Freelander2 HSE (59 Plate, MY10 spec)

gasman wrote:

I got one of those batteries of eBay last year �89.50 plus �7.50 delivered. Exactly the same as the old one on the car. For some reason it comes with the JLR logo tipexed out. Same size same amps etc. Only time will tell but so far so good.

Correction, i did need to do a window reset once i realised i had lost one touch up and down.
Nigel

Considering a replacement for the original Exide RC135 and swayed towards the Lucas LP110 from Tanya batteries.

Does anyone have alternative suggestion? I have a 2007 FL2 HSE manual that doesn’t have stop/start.

I’d also appreciate removal/fitting advice, looking from the front of the vehicle there is a vertical metal rod, is this a securing device? Also is there the usual metal clamp at the base of the battery holding it firm, its difficultto see with everything stillin place?

The vertical metal rod is really a very long shouldered bolt that holds the base clamping device in place. When it’s unscrewed, you can lift the battery out and if you are unlucky the base clamp will try to escape into the engine bay. If it doesn’t get out it will be left at the bottom of the battery tray and will be in the way of the new battery so remove it. You can move the new battery around and arrange the clamp into a suitable place that holds the battery down and allows the long bolt to be screwed in. Don’t forget to move the battery breather from the old battery to the new battery.

I have same car and year as you yes undo the rod and it should lift out I don’t remember anymore to undo,the battery is well heavy I found a step stool helped me get mine out. I got a Duracell heavy duty from ECP if I remember correctly it’s been excellent.

You will need to reset the clock and one shot windows. tell you how to do it in your owners pack. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Thanks guys. I presume there are no issues about losing anything else whilst batteries are swapped over?

No it’s just as Bob said above,

Fitted my new battery today... Varta F19 Silver Dynamic 85Ah. Ordered from Tanya yesterday, delivered today.

The car has not been used for over a week and following the really cold night, it took some cranking for its first start but thereafter... great again.

Reset the windows, forgot the clock. You'd think a so called top end system would pick up the time signal via RDS.

Varta F19 being delivered today, now then being vertically challenged and neck and back issues what is the removal sequence please?
Earth first?


PS. Halfords a 64 mile round trip so no not going there  If it wasn't so bad it'd be funny.

🐑
Freelander 2 HSE auto 2014 ( Florrie ) ..... Try again.
Freelander 2 GS 2012...... Gone.

Being a little wary of batteries, I separated the wires making up the earth connection so I could get them well out of the way. Dropped the large (13mm) nut down the back of the battery box. Couldn't find it so I had to take the battery box out. Hidden away was a tiny apperture into which the nut had fallen - luckily it was visible... a magnet on a telescopic stick retrieved the nut and battery box was replaced. Seemed like a good idea at the time


10mm socket /spanner for battery clamp and terminals iirc... secure leads out of the way so they don't snag the vertical lift of battery when you take it out. A small set of steps or a hop-up may be of use to give yourself a little extra height for lifting the battery. With back and neck issues you may want to get an 'assistant' to lift and replace the battery.

1. earth off
2. positive off
3. old battery out
4. new battery in
5. positive on
6. earth on

...and remember to compare old and new batteries first to see if there is an additional piece of plastic at the base of the new one that needs to be removed for it to fit. Otherwise, you will have many false lifts before you figure it out! Took three Halfords guys ten minutes of lifting in and out before I pointed that out to them!  2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel