looking to do the haldex service but does the pump come out without removing the prop flange it looks to close to remove

pic copied ok

I think you can by grinding a small relief on the rear of the flange. It’s only one nut to remove though...

I serviced mine on my Evoque last year. https://www.evoqueownersclub.co.uk/forum/2...tures.html Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

sunnybryn69 wrote:

looking to do the haldex service but does the pump come out without removing the prop flange it looks to close to remove

pic copied ok

The Gen 4 is Ok, it's the gen 3 that was a problem.
Have a look at this video regarding the gen 4 on an Evoque.
 2007 TD4 XS Manual in Sumatra Black

Sorry MJ that flange on the video is very different to the one on my 2014 FL2 which has a huge flange making removal of pump impossible without removing the flange, which is also difficult to remove because of its depth.
Many Utube vids show Gen 4 haldexs from other vehicles (eg volvo) where the flange is much smaller.

This is mine



You need to make a tool that goes on the back of the flange (pump side, where here is very little space) to keep it stationary when removing the centre nut as the bolts holes are too recessed on the front side.





PS why does the website keep rotating my pics Jules

Yeah mine the same pump to tight to remove

fitted a toggle switch to turn on off haldex as iam getting a grab like driving over rumble strips on everyday driving ,but when towing caravan no so noticeable. having haldex service done next month hope it cures the problem

It takes only a few minutes to remove the prop and flange from the Haldex, and makes access to the filter much easier, as well as allowing the pump to come out

More like a days work in my experience. Jules

My January 2010 Gen 4 Haldex has the smaller flange which is easy to remove in a vice - never done it on the car.

At some point (Clearly after 2010) the propshaft was modified - Larger flange at the rear and something else up the front (I think it was some sort of vibration damper).

Photos get rotated by 90 degrees when their memory size is too large. FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
Evoque SD4 Auto Blue.
FL1 HSE TD4 Manual Black - Gone.
RR Classic V8 EFI - Gone

Hi sunnybryn69,

I was thinking of a 2WD / 4WD switch myself

Where did you interrupt the circuit for your switch to go in?

When you switch off the pump, do you get the 'Gearbox fault, Traction reduced' error message?

Thanks M_W

removed the fb6 15 amp fuse in boot fuse box then loop single wire from live side of fuse fb6 holder to the switch then onto a inline fuse holder then fitted a 5amp fuse as reccomended as the 15amp to much for the haldex . then fit wire back to the other side of fuse holder fb6. and yes when haldex switched off the transmission fault does come on dash

Thanks sunnybryn69

Regarding the Haldex oil getting all gunked up.
Is this more likely to happen when car is regularly used off road, ie haldex applying drive
to rear more often, or when it is used on road all its' life?
Never seen an answer to that question in Haldex threads.


Iain

Personally, I think it is inevitable that it will get gunked up at some point (it's when, not if)

There are 10 friction plates in there and Land Rover don't recommend an oil and filter element change nor do they recommend a clean of the pump screen.

Audi recommend a service every 20K but this would still not resolve the problem as it doesn't remove all of the oil / gunk from the housing and it doesn't address the blocked pump screen - see below

Click image to enlarge