Nick,

Very nice!!!!

I don't know about you but I always feel good about being able to fix it myself.


Your results are consistent with what I found.

The fluid that came out was dark but not burnt.

And I didn't notice much of a change in the shifting after the flush. (Good before and good after)


Can you describe how you got 350ml out at 60C?

Did you start the engine and warm it up with the plug installed and then removed at 60C? (Note: the manual says between 50C and 60C and I targeted the lower temperature limit which is the upped limit for the fluid)

You did check the level with the engine running? (and reinstalled the plug (torx bolt) before you stopped the engine?)

How much did fluid did you put in on the last fill?



In my case I only returned about 100 ml more fluid than I took out and then I let some dribble out as the temperature climbed (engine running plug removed) as it got near 50C I reinstalled the plug with the fluid dripping.

I need to make more careful measurements next time so that I can say exactly how much fluid comes out.


Good luck

Paul

Paul, basically did the level check just as you described, engine running, level plug removed at 60c & refitted with engine still running. Last fill was 3 ltr, I think I will check the level again at the weekend, for peace of mind!

Cheers,

Nick (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Nick,

It should be fine (I'm just a little paranoid).



Based on what I've read on one of the threads if the level isn't correct then an error message will be displayed.

Can anyone confirm this?


The next time that I change mine I'll get the following capacities

- cold engine, engine off, Torx plug removed - X ml drains out

- cold engine, engine off, snorkel removed - Y ml drains out

X + Y + (~100 ml) = target amount to refill


Nice work

Paul

Hi

Yes if level is wrong transmission error will pop up. FOREVER LEARNING

Quote:

Hi

Yes if level is wrong transmission error will pop up.

I've changed my fluid (3 quarts at at time) five times for a total of 15 quarts.

First change was done at about 50,000 miles

Most recent was done at 113,000 miles

No error so far

I must be filling it accurately enough.

That is great feedback

Thanks

Paul

I did a part change on Sunday Aisin Aw-1 JWS3324 spec.
previously I had been getting a harsh down change or take up in first gear,
car at 40k
I put approx 7 liters through
old oil was brown but un-burnt

transformed gear changes back to silky smooth seamless changes,
oil supplied from Smith and allan on Ebay 01325462228
if you call direct they give an extra 10% off

20litres cost £85 delivered
so plenty for a couple of changes.
I used the icarsoft to check the temp was at 60degrees c for level check.

Did you perform 2 separate changes to use 7 litres?
I think I'm going to invest in an Icarsoft; can I ask how are you getting on with it so far?
Thanks,

I filled it after 1st drain with3.5 litres
(Had drained just 3)
Started car ran through gears then drain it again
Refilled with another 3.5litres connected icar soft set it to record transmission oil temp
Went for a short drive 2miles or so
Returned home levelled car and drained the excess.
Gearbox has not had a rough gear selection since.
I have enough to do the same again which will result in approx 80 % new oil I reckon.
I will then drain and change 3 litres at each service.

The icarsoft I am pleased with it offers many read outs lets you force DPF regen set steering angle,sensor
Retract epb for service, so far it looks a good investment.

I did also purchase laser long funnel kit which made refill a breeze and the laser drain plug sockets as I did not have a 17mm Allen socket handy.

Best of all I know it's done to my satisfaction.

Thanks for the update.
Agree 100% with this "Best of all I know it's done to my satisfaction"!

I have one of those €4 OBDII Bluetooth port connectors and the Torq app on my phone. Through this it gives the gearbox temperature among other parametres.

Has anyone had any success with using a vacuum pump (like the Pela 6000) to get the old fluid out via the filler plug?

I am very much a novice mechanic and don't have access to a drive or a garage so I'd rather not jack the car up while parked on a public road. I suspect even if this isn't as effective as draining it the normal way i'd still manage to do a better job than a local indy. Not to mention the savings

EDIT: I'd also welcome any thoughts on alternatives to the Mobil 3309 fluid- I can see alternatives on eBay such as Smith & Allan and Westway Lubricants. Are these any good? As the car has never had a fluid change in 120k I can see myself getting through a lot of ATF in an effort to get the box clean. This will get very expensive quickly if I use Mobil the entire time

There is no fluid visible through the filler plug hole when the box is full. Unlikely to be able vacuum it out. As long as the spec IS a true 3309 (and not a “universal” type - don’t trust them) it should be ok. I have a can of S&A 3309 ready for my next change. Plan to use around 10 - 12 litres if it has not been changed before. You will HAVE to get access to the underside to remove/refit the level plug anyway. Only way to ensure the contents are correct.

Bob 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

look at the price of a new gearbox - the oil will suddenly look a lot cheaper.
There is a site sponsor - Opie oils, well worth a look for good quality oils at reasonable prices.

You will probably use about 18 litres of oil 2-3 litres at a time before the oil looks clean coming out, and you will spend most of the day draining / filling / warming oil it's not hard just time consuming.

Undo the filler plug (at the top) BEFORE you undo the drain plug. You will be VERY upset if you drop 3 litres or more of oil and find you cannot get the filler plug out to top back up. You will know the feeling, a disabled Freelander outside your home and the tool you need is 10 miles away at Halfords.

To do the job properly you should make sure the car is level - so front end on ramps and rear end on axle stands.

Working outside in the road - done two engine swaps on the road outside our house, lost count of the number of gearbox in/out jobs. Most of which seem to have been while it was raining (Manchester) lying in the gutter full of water. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

If the box has 120k without its oil ever been changed, then you don't want to change too much oil at once...
This because the amount of deposits that are inside the box and the cleaning additives inside the new oil.
You don't want to dislodge some big chunk of a deposit and plug some valve's thin passage.

So the 3 liters (from a total of 7 liters) that flows through the drain plug is more than enough.
From now on, change 3 liters at each 7.5k miles and you'll be good.

The above is the general knowledge and experience of a big community, the Russian community.
Almost all that have passed 120k and changed ALL oil, in other words performed a gearbox flush, later have developed valve block problems.
The ones that have changed in small amounts are OK.

Alex,

Very good feedback........

I changed the fluid on my S80 at 125,000 miles.

I drained and filled, I didn't flush.

By lifting only one side of the car I was able to remove 3.6 Liters





I will wait 30,000 miles before I change more fluid

Thanks

Paul