Shiggsy, did you ever complete the installation, connecting the final pipe to return the oil to the sump? Without that you would seem to have a very elegant £270 catch-can that lacks the storage capacity of a £28 one!

It's a really good write up and concentrates the mind on the combined effect of EGR and PCV - it would be interesting to know how each affects the other. Presumably the gunk in the inlet manifold and EGR valve is the exhaust gas particulates caught up in the oily residue from the crankcase breather? Removing either component will have an effect on the degree of build-up, but removing both is better? 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

Andy131 wrote:

Yorky Bob wrote:

Agreed as above

definitely either a cracked intercooler (I replaced mine twice) or a faulty hose connection - either way your FL2 is politely asking for attention - before either the hose splits or the intercooler fails properly.

Either way it will happen miles from home, probably fully laden, going up a steep incline - that's sods law for you

I am afraid that you might be right, but hope not

Is cracking intercoolers a known issue? I guess access it is a bumper-off job?

How can I put this tactfully
Our local Indie has them in stock, so they must be selling quite a few.

The first one died as the result of driving into a frozen pond - the ice sliced the intercooler

The second died as a result of old age - think 150k+ miles after the first one was killed when it died.

Yes you have to remove the front bumper cover - the large plastic thing, actually quite easy, but do remember to put a piece of carpet(or sheets) on the ground as you will be upset if you scratch it, when it drops onto the floor.

Once off (takes an hour) you will be surprised how much stuff is very easy to get too - and you get to see the bumper proper, which for a modern car is very substantial. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

May help

 FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

OK. Thanks for the feedback. I will see whats my options is to get a new one. The cheapest I have found so far is from Island4x4 which is £65 ex. VAT. Used ones here in Norway is actually more expensive than that

OK. I took your advice and ordered a new inter cooler from Island4x4 last week. it will be here in the next days, so then I at least have it in house, ready for fitment

Yorky Bob wrote:

Good point. I use a fuel additive.

Hi Guys,
I'm newly registered here but have been getting the benefit of the site for years so thought it only right I should put something back now and then, if I can. This time though, I'm just wondering if Shiggsy ever did finish installing the Provent Oil Separator?

Thanks
Jimmy

Great thread everyone, deserves to be a sticky.

It's warned me to attend to this ASAP. I lost my first Disco to a clagged turbo.

Now, most catch cans I see have very small oil lines in and out, compared to the 25 mm monsters on the 200.

The 200 is only $50AUD so maybe 20 bucks more than an ordinary can. Seems worthwhile.

Thoughts?

Cheers
Jeff

ozjeff62

Provent do a decent range and they have a few options you could look at as I did consider the 150 although chose the 200 so I wouldn't be causing any restrictions. Lucky that you can get the 200 so cheap, mine was nearly 100 GBP.

Unfortunately I am still at the stage where shiggsy was and have yet to connect back to the sump. Nor have I done any miles on it since fitting as I work away and never had the time to finish it but will get it done on my return home.
I will drop the lower sump pan and look for the best position with access internally and externally then drill a hole in the side. I have a 3/8" swagelok bulkhead fitting and some stainless pipe pre bent to make it look rather nice. This will connect with rubber hose to the bottom of the Provent. Incidentally - it's much cheaper if you get regular fuel / oil hose - I didn't see the need for fancy silicon fluoro hose that would dull down in no time anyway...

I plan on doing a full removal of all my pipework from the turbo to the intercooler, then to the throttle body as each connection has too much oil leakage and I am convinced it is not from the turbo but fitting all this should confirm it. Much cheaper than trying to change out a turbo that seems to to boosting fine as I have plenty power. A good wash in gunk and a thorough inspection before fitting it all together should give a clear idea on whether it's been worthwhile after a few hundred or so miles. I will eventually do some pics for here as this has been a place of reference for more years than I can remember

Jimmy

Having read a bit more on all this and given it more long-term thought, I am now working on the assumption that Shiggsy’s approach of simply leaving it as a catch-can is probably the easiest and best approach - why bother feeding it back to the engine just for the sludge and emulsion to end up in the sump! Since the installation will be easier without the return pipe and any oil loss from the engine is better replaced with fresh oil, it seems fine to me just to collect it in a suitable container and empty it at intervals. 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

I never did feed it back into the sump, just never got round to it really. I have found that it used to collect clear water, which was probably condensation that formed due to the length of the pipes, at a guess. 
Hung like Einstein, smart as a horse.

Shiggsy,
That's interesting that there was no oil caught?? I wonder if the resident expert Alex P has seen this post as he seems to be one of the most knowledgeable guys on here (no offence to the rest )

Did you ever check if you had less gunk build up in the inlets after the EGR?
Thanks

Hi Folks,
A quick update on my own installation - After 1000 miles my provent had caught approximately 30ml of sludge which I wiped out of the filter assembly and exactly 44ml of clear water in the metre of pipe I had coiled below that was going to get connected back to the sump.
In light of this I decided (like Shiggsy) not to plumb it into the sump. I have fitted a receiver below the provent with a 500ml capacity which should be more than enough to last me between normal servicing.

Hope this may help some others out as there are way too many posts on here with people asking for help and then never following up to let the rest of the readers know how or if they resolved  09 FL2 GS TD4e Current
16 DS HSE Black Current
13 FL2 GS TD4
11 FL2 GS TD4
10 FL2 XS TD4
56 FL1 TD4
72 S3, 6cyl 109 Truck Cab

Jimmy, thanks for posting the update. Has the addition of the Provent made any noticeable difference to the cleanliness of the air pipes downstream of the PCV join? 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel