I am looking at buying a 63 reg freelander 2 diesel with 54k on the clock, anything to look out for?? I have been looking here and diff bearings seem to be a weak spot or is the problem caused by not changing fluid? it is priced at £13400 at a reputable independent dealer and is covered by their own 3 month warranty.... also what is towing capacity?? thanks in advance

https://www.theaa.com/vehicle-inspections/prices.html FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

To be fair I think pretty much all the usual FL2 niggles like diff and flat spots were sorted in the MY13 onwards so a well looked after 63 plate should be fine.
Just check for all the usual car things and you should be ok. Not to say you won't get some generic issue but you would get that no matter what car you bought.

My car is of that age and mileage - plenty of pics etc on my profile/posts

Apart from servicing the only problems I have had are:
Brake pads all round
Replaced rear brake discs
Replaced Track Rod ends (and 4 wheel alignment)

Generally a good all round reliable and enjoyable car - I occasionally tow a small trailer with heavy/bulky loads without any problem at all - towing capacity etc should all be online.

Welcome to the fold  No Longer the owner of a 2013MY Fuji White GS

"Fiat Lux" a philosophy not a car

Is it manual or automatic?

If it is manual (and especially if it has a tow bar) when you are taking it for a test drive, get it onto a decent fast road, (preferably up a hill) and in any gear above second, put the foot down and see if it over-revs above road speed, indicating a slipping dual-mass flywheel. It should be fairly obvious as the revs will rise easily above 1800 and then come back down below 2000 as the drive catches up with the engine. 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

To be fair I think pretty much all the usual FL2 niggles like diff and flat spots were sorted in the MY13 onwards so a well looked after 63 plate should be fine.
Just check for all the usual car things and you should be ok. Not to say you won't get some generic issue but you would get that no matter what car you bought.


Not necessarily true - my 64 plate SD4 with 30k on the clock suffered a diff bearing failure thankfully done under warranty. That being said LR may well have been using their old stock to clear the decks for the DS.
Just make sure that there are no funny noises from the rear of the car. MY 09 GS manual in Lago Grey, Wood Co arm rest and side bumper strips - now sold.

MY 15 SD4 SE Auto Orkney Grey with colour coded Bumper Door Mouldings

I talked to my local LR indy end of last year about the diff. He said there replacing quite a number now and it’s any year anywhere from 20k-160k miles and there isn’t a pattern to it. And they get the replacements from Austin at Bell.

thanks for all replies... it is manual but I don't know if it has towbar… if I do buy it I intend to carry on with my servicing routine and that is change engine oil and filter also change air and fuel filter at half recommended mileage... I will need to find out if it is the same as the X reg Mazda B2500 non turbo pickup we used to have and that is it would go a lot better if the oil level was just a quarter to a third way up between the min and max marks on the dipstick and I have asked mechanics why is this but nobody could supply an answer... also at what mileage does the timing belt need changing or even does it have one!!
is there a Haynes manual available??

timing belt is 150k or 10 years... its a big service with all the other bits that need doing (water pump, tensioners etc) costing anywhere from £700(indy) - £1700(LR dealer) depending on which garage you use.

I have just paid £639.49 for the cam belt, water pump, tensioner, aux belt and coolant renewal at RCV in Kent. Car running very smoothly now. Generally I hate getting things done by a garage, but this was a step too far for me. Very happy with their service.

dextaowner wrote:

t. I will need to find out if it is the same as the X reg Mazda B2500 non turbo pickup we used to have and that is it would go a lot better if the oil level was just a quarter to a third way up between the min and max marks on the dipstick and I have asked mechanics why is this but nobody could supply an answer?

the timing belt can wait then ….. what oil goes in engine?? I am jumping the gun here because I have not even seen it yet and I need to go for test drive up hill but if I can tick all the boxes then things will be looking good

what oil goes in engine ?

C1 FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

thanks for that yorky bob … I have never owned a vehicle with DPF before but I have read on various sites that a vehicle with DPF will give problems if used for short journeys too much..

I have just contacted dealer and it does not have towbar but having one fitted will cost at least £400 as it needs to be programmed and they gets an outside firm to do it