Hi all,

I've got fault code P1889-74 "Oil Pressure Pump Performance" relating to the Haldex system. Because of this, I often get the error message "Transmission Fault, Traction Reduced".

The Haldex oil pump was replaced in 2015 so I will try changing the oil and filter on the Haldex before any further diagnostics or repairs.

Any tips for carrying out this job? I've seen suggestions of removing the prop shaft or removing the Haldex entirely.

Thanks 2018 - 2007 '56 manual HSE Freelander 2

Drop it out and clean the pump filter not just replaceable filter. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

I am currently attempting to remove my Gen 3 Haldex from a 2008 LR2 ... I was hoping just to remove the 6 bolts on the shaft to get the shaft to pull away from the Haldex hub. But there must be some short guide pins still holding the hubs/flanges together...? Not any indication in terms of separation movement with the 6 bolts removed and don’t want to damage the softer metal on the hub of the drive shaft side to force things.

It doesn’t appear that the Haldex/diff can slide back a bit by the way it mounts if I were to remove the 4 bottom bolts under the Haldex/diff...?

Anyone tackle getting a Haldex 3 removed from a 2008 era LR2..?

Thanks in advance for any input.

You will probably need to give the prop shaft couplng a gentle tap with a hammer & punch to dislodge it fron the Haldex coupling (it actually sits inside the Haldex coupling, not face to face). Then remove the prop shaft centre support bolts, that should allow the coupling enough clearance to come apart.

Nick (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Thanks Nick .. I was hoping to avoid the drive shaft brackets which also may involve dropping the exhaust from its rubber mounts but I will give your suggestion a try..

Thanks

Austen from Bell Engineering gave us all a blow by blow account of how to do it a while ago. It’s on here so you need to have a look for his postings. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

When I took my Haldex out from my Evoque, I couldn’t get the prop off of the flange when the bolts were removed. I had to support the Haldex with a trolley jack, remove the mountings and then lower the Haldex down until they separated.

Mine is a Gen 4 though but I'd imagine it's the same removal procedure. Here’s my thread on the Evoque forum. http://www.evoqueownersclub.co.uk/forum/to...tml#185935 Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

LR208 wrote:

Thanks Nick .. I was hoping to avoid the drive shaft brackets which also may involve dropping the exhaust from its rubber mounts but I will give your suggestion a try..

Thanks

Dropping the exhaust makes it easier to access the diff rear mounting bolts but to be honest doesn't give any other advantage IMHO.

Nick (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Thanks for all the replies ! I postponed this repair for a few weeks. Discovered the Pass Rear wheel bearing needs replaced.

Side note I have 4 relatively new tires on the LR2 (with 4 wheel alignment at the time) but for some reason the Pass Rear tire is wearing 50% faster than the other 3 which are all wearing equally within expectation. Not sure if the bearing (which wasn’t making any noise just had enough play that to indicate that it needs placed) caused this? Or if the Haldex unit (that is running in the traction reduced fault state) is causing resistance (tire to street pivot friction or drag) when making turns ?

Just thought I would toss the tire wear out there in case others have experienced a similar issue.

Regards