redge -
Im afraid all I can tell you is that the autobox oil specification should meet JWS3309 or JWS3324 for later cars (like my 2014 SD4).

What does it say in your Freelander 2 owner's manual ? Jules

redge wrote:

Wow this downloaded manual is Excellent

In the end, it's the factory manual...

redge, you can try to find alternatives, like the one below.
http://www.ravenol.de/en/products/usage/d/...etime.html

The manufacturer of the box says that the JWS3309 and JWS3324 are compatible and mixable.
The JWS3309 is thicker and not fully synthetic, the JWS3324 is fully synthetic and thinner.
If you really can't find any alternative for JWS3324, I, for one, I would put a Toyota T-IV oil, which is the same as JWS3309 and for sure you can find that in South Africa.
But get that T-IV from a Toyota dealer and don't put an equivalent of T-IV. Just the real deal if you go the Toyota way and you'll be safe.
The downside is that the JWS3309/T-IV, being a non synthetic blend, will require a partial change each 20000 km - the box manufacturer recommendation.

mountainboy wrote:

alex_pescaru wrote:

There is no need for double flush.
After you drop the oil from the sump and fill it with the same quantity of fresh oil, for the oil trapped inside the converter, you can disconnect the automatic box oil radiator output hose and with the engine running, the box will expunge the old oil whilst you keep feed fresh oil through the top filler plug with the approximately same rate as oil exits. Don't worry if you can't feed it with exactly the same rate as exiting, because the box has 7 liters and -1 liter is not the end of the world. In fact this is the way the oil changing machines does it.
When the oil that's exiting has the same colour as the fresh oil, then you stop, reconnect the hose, and fill it to the level.

so it perfectly acceptable not change the filter when changing the oil? I mean, it's not an absolute must when changing oil?

mountainboy wrote:

alex_pescaru wrote:

There is no need for double flush.
After you drop the oil from the sump and fill it with the same quantity of fresh oil, for the oil trapped inside the converter, you can disconnect the automatic box oil radiator output hose and with the engine running, the box will expunge the old oil whilst you keep feed fresh oil through the top filler plug with the approximately same rate as oil exits. Don't worry if you can't feed it with exactly the same rate as exiting, because the box has 7 liters and -1 liter is not the end of the world. In fact this is the way the oil changing machines does it.
When the oil that's exiting has the same colour as the fresh oil, then you stop, reconnect the hose, and fill it to the level.

so it perfectly acceptable not change the filter when changing the oil? I mean, it's not an absolute must when changing oil?

Yes

Thank you

You may find it easier to take the correct tube off the Gearbox side and put on a small piece of poly tube

Hi All
I still did not have the time to do the oil change, but it will happen in the next week. Yes, I thought I would disconnect the hose coming back from the cooler where it goes into the gearbox and drain the oil from that hose, then I know I also flushed the oil in the cooler. I will just block off the hose inlet at the gearbox while I do this.

I also attach a picture of the Total oil specs that I mentioned before, maybe someone can make a comment about this oil's specs for a SD4.

I have another question, if the car is at normal operating temperature on the temperature gauge, does that mean the gearbox is more or less at 60 degrees? and why is the temperature important, does the oil expand a lot?

Thank you for any replies 2013 FL SD4

Hi Alex
The pictures show the two oils our toyota dealer uses, the red one looks like the T IV that you mentioned. The silver one is the
WS , is this the JWS 3324 that you said I should use? The dealer says they think it is synthetic. I am curious, why do you recomend a toyota oil, do they use the same box as the freelander?



 2013 FL SD4

Yes, these are the ones.
As your car is MY2013, you should use the JWS3324 one. And yes, is a synthetic one.
Aisin, the manufacturer of the autobox, is the one that also produces all the autoboxes for Toyota.
As Toyota has the majority of the Aisin shares, their relation is a closed one.
Therefore the oil that is used on Toyota's autoboxes is the same used on our autoboxes.
The JWS3309 is a mineral based oil and it is a little thicker than the JWS3324.
But they are compatible and miscible.

You can also take a look at this material: https://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/user...change.pdf

Is from a seminar, where Mr. Kata Sun, vice-president (at that time) of Aisin Europe, has told the participants a lot of things about Aisin autoboxes.
The translation is not perfect, but you will get perfectly the ideas of the autobox's manufacturer and not LR, the one that uses the box.

Thank you for that Alex,
you saw the silver can only says WS and not JWS 3324? There is no other specs on the can so do you think I can asume that it is actually JWS 3324?
It is interesting that this oil cost only R 110 per liter and landrover charges R700 per liter for their oil. 2013 FL SD4

I believe that Toyota T-IV and T-WS is a commercial designation, while the JWS3309 and JWS3324 are the name of the norms/standards/requirements that they meet.

Thank you Alex 2013 FL SD4

Just used alex’s Method and all plain sailing and job done, feels much better now too.
Happy days