Just how reliable is the FL2?
I want to change my Yeti DSG as it is a rubbish gearbox. I test drove a 2009 TD4.E with 107k miles on in XS spec, it was listed at £7250 and had 10 service stamps. I was put off buy the mileage and it sold the next day (I regret it now) the clutch felt fine and it drove like new.
How reliable is the manual version of the FL2? I don't do mega miles, but could give it a good run whenever necessary.
Is 107k miles for that price way too high anyway? There is one for £6500 in GS spec with 62k miles on currently for sale, but I don't know if the GS spec is a bit spartan?

My main concern is fuel economy and overall reliability. My Yeti gets 30mpg with gentle driving (not sure why). I wouldn't want to dip much below that.

Thanks.

Others on here with longer experience of ownership will testify to their reliability. All I can say in 5 months and 8000 miles of ownership is Im delighted with the F2. 32 mpg average for me on an Sd4 (auto only on this model). Any manual would better that with ease. Surprised your only getting 30 from a Yeti though, the Tdi VAG engines are normally much more economical. My wife has a VW Tiguan 4motion which averages over 40 mpg easily. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Hi
Am new to the fl2 - but coming from a Golf TDI the MPG of the FL2 is shocking. However you have to change your driving habbits, if you drive it like a small car then you will blow the MPG away.

I have done the following and am now getting 33MPG round town and country lane driving.
EGR blocking plate
Bluespark Chip - power and torque increase

With regards to reliability - not had it long enough to comment.

However my one big learn after buying a 10 year old FL2 - is that they need a very big service at 10 year or 150,000 miles (+£850 plus vat)
This is why you see a load of 2007-2008 at relatively low prices.
The 10 year service includes Haldex (4x4 system) cam belt, water pump, and a load of other stuff.
The cam belt is quoted as needing to replaced every 150,000 miles or 10 years - that's the key ask when buying a near 10 year old car. As all the dealer will quote 150,000 miles and not mention the 10 year bit.

Hope this helps.

Last edited by Suckfish on 5th Apr 2018 10:50 am. Edited 1 time in total

My Yeti is a 1.2L TSI. Even on a run it doesn't go over 38 or so.

Okay, there are loads with around 90k miles on and 2007-2008 model years, that makes more sense now!

Ah!, didnt realize it was a petrol, wouldnt have anything with spark plugs near me (except my Mini)
(So much for so called super efficient small capacity turbo petrol cars that the manufacturers and government are determined to force upon us ) Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

If you want the best experience of a Freelander 2, then I would recommend the SD4 (Auto) with as good a spec as possible.

I have been driving these for some 6 years and have only the known problem of fuel gauge wiring and (worn out?) door lock, both easily cured.

I get about 33mpg indicated overall.

Try to get a LR warranty. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Last edited by IanMetro on 6th Apr 2018 7:51 am. Edited 1 time in total

You can expect a wide variation in answers to its reliability, I can only vouch for my ownership.

I am on a third now, all new. First was a TD4e manual in 2010, quickly followed by a SD4 auto 2011 and another new SD4 in 2013. Two faults in 8 years, one cured by a software update, and with the present car a new EGR valve and cooler, other than that just normal wear and tear.

Would I buy again, yes. Unfortunately the Discovery Sport is a crap replacement so I am still with this one, and have not found anything that ticks my boxes.

If you are looking for economy then look elsewhere, it never was and never is an economical car to own unless driven like a fairy.

30+ mpg is fairly economical in my opinion.
What is the difference between the SD4 and the TD4 engine? I test drove a TD4.e and it was lovely to drive, nice manual gearbox too. It did stick getting into reverse the first time though, not sure if that was just me.

TD4 are either 160bhp (upto about 2010 with no DPF Euro IV engines) or 150bhp (from 2010 onwards with DPF Euro V engines)
both were available with manual or auto box and both had roughly the same torque figures.

SD4 are 190bhp (slightly different mechanicals) available from 2011 onwards and only available in auto

many on here, including myself, reckon the SD4 Auto is the best combination of the lot.

My wife's had her Fl2 for five years now , it was bought with 109k on and it's now done 143k .It's only ever needed wear and tear items/consumables . Last year it was treated to a full set of shockers and four Michelin latitude cross tyres along with the 10 year service items . I've tried tempting her with a newer Fl2 but she's happy with what she's got . I've just replaced my written off 09 plate for an SD4 and absolutely love it .

Mark 2009 FL2 TD4 SE (Sadly gone)
2007 FL2 TD4 GS (The wifes , gone after 8 great years)
2012 FL2 SD4 SPORT LE(Gone and missing it)
2015 DISCOVERY SPORT 2.2SD4 HSE (Now gone)
2014 Ford Bmax 1.0 ecoboost ( Gone but what next )
2014 Ford Focus 2.0tdci Zetec S (Gone,but what a car)
2020 Ford Fiesta ActiveX 1.0 Ecoboost
2024 Skoda Kodiaq 1.5 Tsi SEL

Only repairs I have done is a new auto gear knob and a tail gate switch in 7 year's ownership.

In 7+ years, aside normal age related replacements (clutch, shocks, discs, batteries) Terry's only issues have been a split inter cooler pipe and a failed waste gate actuator.

On both occasions the only indication was a drop in over all performance and some exhaust smoke when accelerating. Neither incapacitated the vehicle. One I only became suspicious at the start of a 260 mile journey and wasn't addressed for another 700 or so miles.

I would say that was pretty solid service on Terry's part.

Terry has been on an RAC lorry once in 7 years but that was because the Land Rover dealer who fitted the new clutch didn't fit the clip properly and it came off. I don't blame Terry for that as it was nothing he did that let us down.

Even doing the clutch was only precautionary as the engine was out for his massive 120K service and it seemed like a good idea at the time.

The Freelander was the most reliable Land Rover till date! That is JLR’s own words

I still can’t believe JLR killed off the most reliable Land Rover till date

But I guess it didn’t fit in with the current Land Rover line up... if it doesn’t brake down it’s not a Land Rover  MY14 Kahn Converted Dynamic - Fuji White Ebony/Pimento Interior
MY15 Xenon Headlight Conversion

MY17 RRS SVR - Estoril Blue Cirrus/Ebony 🪣💺’s

I have 2 and they give 33 34 to the gallon all day long. I have had not great problem in the past 4 years within them wear and tear taken in to account. One a 59 plate and the other a 56 both well over 100000 miles and still good drives

archie98 wrote:

Only repairs I have done is a new auto gear knob and a tail gate switch in 7 year's ownership.

how did you manage to wear your knob out in 7 years?  Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)