IanMetro wrote:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n0e6q5jj1l1fe2z

Instrument Panel and Console - Instrument PanelTD4 2.2L Diesel
Removal and Installation

On page 2264 (of 3224) --- diagram 14 --- it shows the earth chassis connection.

Earth is G3D134-1 and is Black/Violet 1.5

If you down load this (without signing in) it has all the info for your MY07 FL2.

I've checked clutch message and only appeared when clutch is not pressed.
Will remove central console tomorrow to check the earth points
As I understand is nothing wrong with immobiliser as is detecting both keys. Also not showing external temp. Is the external sensor inside mirror connected to ecu or computer gets reading from maf sensor (intake temp)? I'm thinking about glow plugs as there is the error for glow plugs.

Quote:

I've checked clutch message and only appeared when clutch is not pressed.

Ok, I removed central console, found some earth wires attached to the console aluminium brackets, all looks good. took the jump lead from negative battery ( quite long) through open window and tried to start engine with clamp attached to every piece of metal inside the cabin.
Also fitted new negative battery strap from ebay.
I think these errors a just the outcome of some problem inside the engine bay.
I mentioned earlier called breakdown I think in January as I couldn't start the engine, same symptoms like now. I was pressing the button, he was checking all the connections around the engine. When he moved small earth strap on right hand side of the gearbox engine started. He cleaned the bolts, attached the strap back, engine was starting every time. Me happy as bunny ordered new strap on ebay. Tried to start engine next day, same problem (still awaiting for new strap). Connected jump lead from battery negative to gearbox , engine started. Fitted new strap few days later, no problems for 2 weeks and engine was kinda better responding.
Can any of the engine sensors prevent the engine from start? Sensor not getting earth? I replaced crank sensor already.
Charged battery overnight to 12.6V

Sorry to hear you are still in trouble.

I based my Display Unit earth thoughts on your original description of symptoms that included odd things like the coolant temperature gauge, OBDC, steering lock, and other things in the display unit area.

For example
The ECT sensor is located in the thermal control module and secured in the housing with a clip. The ECT sensor provides an engine coolant temperature signal to the Engine Control Module (ECM). The signal is used by the ECM to control the operation of the 2 cooling fans. For additional information, refer to: Electronic Engine Controls - 2.2L Diesel (303-14 Electronic Engine Controls - 2.2L Diesel, Description and Operation). The ECM also communicates the ECT signal on the high speed Controller Area Network (CAN) bus to the Central Junction Box (CJB). The CJB transmits the ECT signal via the medium speed CAN bus to the instrument cluster, for display on the coolant temperature gauge. For additional information, refer to: Instrument Cluster (413-01 Instrument Cluster, Description and Operation).


Although the max temp reading could be sent from error in the ECM, I do not think that this would account for OBDC, Steering Lock, etc.

I can only suggest that you track and check earth run back to display unit, looking especially in places like the drivers footwell and other places it could be damaged.

If not, you need to start investigating the more staight forward problem, of why you are not getting any OBDC readouts.
These should then help you look for sensor errors.

Good Luck FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

I looked at my LR2 today to see if I could find the grounding points

The only luck I had was by removing the glove box

I did look extensively for a grounding point in the area under the wipers

Unfortunately I had no luck

If I find something useful I’ll post it here

Good luck

Paul

Removed the bottom cover with drivers knee airbag to check clutch/brake switches, looks ok.
Removed clocks, checked connector at the back, also found grounds points mentioned earlied
(in the middle of the photo)



Also pulled haldex fuse, no change. Tomorrow Im going to disconnect the haldex completely, maybe is throwing errors on high speed can bus

Can someone confirm please these sounds, are they correct? I didn't press button, just inserted the fob.
[/img]

Please can you clarify your OBDC comment.
Is your reader powering up and then not able to communicate with car, or is it that the reader is not powering up?

Without getting OBD codes, I think that it will be impossible to find problem unless you stumble across damaged plugs / pins, or find something like evidence of water ingress.

I am praying that it is a power related problem as if either of the CAN BUS twisted pairs are damaged, then you will need some sophisticated test equipment to track down the short or open circuit. The terminating (matching) resistors for both BUS lines are in the Central Junction Box.
Of course any of the connecting modules could stop line from working, but I think that this would be unlikely without you getting some type of OBD code.

I note that you say that the problem went away when wiring near the gearbox was moved, perhaps that is a good place to start looking for water or damage as that is one of places the BUS cabling visits.

Good Luck FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Reader is powered up just timing out when waiting for signal from ecu.
I'm going through manual at the moment trying to find out what signals are needed to start the engine. I think is something wrong on high speed can bus. One of them is missing or got wrong value. For example there is no external temp showing on the display and according to the manual the signal from mirror sensor going through high speed can bus. And I can't find if the computer need temp to start the engine.

I giving myself one more week. 😪

I don’t know about the sound near the start of the video but the whine at the end sounds like the throttle valve that I hear when shutting down followed by a click and silence.

Please remember that the BUS is acting as a correctly terminated transmission line, so any short or open circuits will give reflections, and confuse any signals on the whole line. So the fault could be anywhere, not just near the module sending, or receiving, the suspect signal. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Checked CAN BUS at the diagnostic socket, getting 60ohms so both lines are terminated correctly. My tester is bluetooth type and is getting detected so I presuming also voltages are ok, just there is no signal from ECU.
Can someone answer me 2 question please:
1. If i pull the Haldex fuse out and get additional message 'transmission fault' (still not starting), can I assume that haldex is ok?
2. If I disconnect steering column lock connector (let say lock is faulty) and car is not staring can I assume that lock is ok or there need to be signal from steering lock to start the engine? At the moment not locking at all.
thank you
Les

Hi new to the forum but reading through this I think you need to go back to basics. Starting with the DTC codes as you may know DtC codes are made up of Letters and numbers the intertriration of these is shown below.

Format of the OBD2 Trouble Codes System or Category
The OBD2 Trouble Codes are categorised into four different systems.
* Body (B-codes) category covers functions that are, generally, inside of the passenger compartment. These functions provide the driver with assistance, comfort, convenience, and safety.

* Chassis (C-codes) category covers functions that are, generally, outside of the passenger compartment. These functions typically include mechanical systems such as brakes, steering and suspension.

* Powertrain (P-codes) category covers functions that include engine, transmission and associated drivetrain accessories.

* Network & Vehicle Integration (U-codes) category covers functions that are shared among computers and systems on the vehicle.

The first letter of the code will mark the system related to the trouble code.

Generic and manufacturer specific codes
The first digit in the code will tell you if the code is a generic or manufacturer specific code.
Codes starting with 0 as the first digit are generic or global codes. It means that they are adopted by all cars that follow the OBD2 standard. These codes are common enough across most manufacturers so that a common code and fault message could be assigned.
Codes starting with 1 as the first digit are manufacturer specific or enhanced codes. It means that these codes are unique to a specific car make or model. These fault codes will not be used generally by a majority of the manufacturers.
The first digit might be also 2 or 3. In this case the type depends on the system. B2xxx and C2xxx codes are manufacturer controlled while B3xxx and C3xxx codes are reserved at the moment. P2xxx codes are generic codes while P3xxx codes are manufacturer controlled. U2xxx codes are manufacturer controller as well as U3xxx codes.

Subsystem or functional area
Previously, the second digit defined the sub-system of the codes. However, the latest document defining the diagnostic trouble codes (J2012 revised in 2016-12) had some changes to this.
According to the document, as the DTC usage has increased with the introduction of new technology to vehicle systems, it was necessary to remove the grouping of DTCs into functional areas.

Fault description
The last two or nowadays three digits define the actual fault description. These numbers will tell the particular problem and each code is defined separately.

Example P0340 (Camshaft sensor code)
1st Digit: B is for Body, C is for Chassis, P is for Powertrain, U is for Network
2nd Digit: 0 is for SAE aka generic, 1 is for mfg (Manufacturer Specific Codes)
3rd Digit=

* 1 Fuel and Air Metering
* 2 Fuel and Air Metering Injector Circuit
* 3 Ignition System (Including Misfires)
* 4 Auxiliary Emissions Controls
* 5 Vehicle Speed Controls And Idle Control System
* 6 Computer Output Circuit
* 7 Transmission
* 8 Transmission

When Lesiu30 interrogated the vehicle via the OBD2 socket he was presented with the following DTC.

P0380 Glow plug control circuit A
P0564 Cruise control multi-function input circuit A
P0833 Clutch pedal switch circuit B
P193B Throttle/pedal signal
U0415 Invalid data received from ABS control module
U3000 Control module

What we don't know is if they all relate to the issue in question or some may be old DTC stored in the system before the current fault occurred the first step would be to clear all the DTC and once the fault reoccurs immediately stop and read what new codes have been recorded.

At this stage it would appear to point to an electrical system malfunction on the canbus H system possibly an earth as discussed but also a broken or chaffed wire which is making and breaking a circuit when moved under load i.e under acceleration or braking.

Also can Lesiu30 advise what make and model code reader he is using and what other diagnostic tools he has at this disposal.

Hi, I'm using generic Bluetooth ELM327 with torque app on my phone
No other equipment, only multimeter




When car was starting 3 weeks ago I was trying to find why these errors coming up and when. Weird is when car was still on the handbrake, in 1st gear and when I start to release the clutch no errors. The same in reverse gear, errors straight away and temp gauge jumping, revs counter going down to zero and up.
That's why I keep asking about haldex
Is pulling the fuse out enough to eliminate haldex or I need to pull the plug of the rear diff?

Can you advise the year and model for your Freelander 2