I have had another look at wiring diagrams.

Shows FE17 feeding Diagnostic socket (Page 15) and Driver Information Module (Page 16)

As far as common earths (Page 21) shows Steering Lock, Start Control, Diagnostic Socket, Drivers Information Module, etc, all going to a common earth point.

The Handbook seems to say that the Drivers Information Module is part of the Instrument Display Unit and stores some of the error information you are trying to read. If I have read this correctly then a faulty power supply in that unit could possibly be the cause.

I cannot see any overheating / timeout device which explains you having to 'rest' the car for sometime to get it going again.

I see that while I have been looking at this you have had some other good advice attached to your post.

I fear in the future, there will be lots of older cars driving around with similar intermittent faults, - they are going to be hard (and expensive to find, as I think that the average garage will just keep swapping random modules. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

I did a little searching and the Volvo message boards have a lot of possible solutions.

I just did a google search for P0564 Volvo

Before we deep dive into everything that could be wrong can you confirm the result of this simple test

1. Dock the key

2. Don't depress the brake or clutch

3. Press start/stop button briefly

Did the Radio/Nav turn on?

4. Press start stop again to shut down

5. undock the key




Next try this

1. Dock the key

2. Don't depress the brake or clutch

3. Press start/stop hold the button for two seconds

Did the Radio/Nav and the instrument panel light up? Fuel gauge shows correct level? Self Test is displayed on the LCD?

If you can answer yes to both tests then this should confirm that the start stop button is functioning correctly.


Good Luck

Paul

Paul
When you dock the key and press the start briefly central console screen activates, and you can hear some quiet whirring sounds from engine bay. When you press for longer everything goes live screen speakers and dials. Temp gauge will go up, messages engine fault, terrain control off etc. Fuel gauge is correct. If you wait message press clutch to start will appear, when you press the clutch and button nothing happens, only tiny clicks (not starter click) from engine fuse box. There is also quiet high pitched sound from throttle body.
So to summarise, car not starting, diagnostic socket not responding, steering lock not engaging.
I will check voltages in the evening after work but 2 days ago was 12.4v on battery and dropping only 0.1v when wife was holding start button.
Regarding cruise control, before when car was starting, there was no errors, no problem after start every morning. My commute starts with motorway, everything working, even cruise control. If I travel gently, putting in neutral before braking, easy on brakes, the errors will not come up. Any hard downshift, hard braking, temp gauge will jump for second, revs counter drops to zero and errors. Look at the video in first post.
And when temp gauge is down even with errors, steering wheel will lock and diagnostic socket is active.

Something like this, contacted him before, he never found what was the problem.
Main difference, in my car occurs only when car is moving

Just wondered if you’d checked the connections and fuses in the box in the near side footwell?

Yes Bob, I did. I have low post count but I read tens of posts on this forum before I started this thread. All the solutions I found where short lived. Problem coming back.

Ian, do you know where this common earth point located? Maybe you are on the right track
Thank you for replying.

liesu30 said
Ian, do you know where this common earth point located? Maybe you are on the right track
Thank you for replying.

Where is YorkyBob (or any other skilled LR mechanic) when you want him.
Please does anyone know where the earth run shown on page 21 of wiring terminates? FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Im Here

All these modern electrics came in well after my time in the trade so apart from some of the good advice already given by others its often going to be a best guess and google.

New battery could be a faulty one or wrong amperage so it needs double checking.

Car needs two Earth leads with one to starter motor area.

Starter buttons are known to become faulty, thats why I always hold down solid on starting not do just poke it and release.

A good while back as reported on here a host of electrical faults turned out to be the steering lock unit. (may be worth a search on here along those lines).

By now alas I could be passing my own car with issues like this onto a well respected Auto electrician.


At the end of the day we hope its not too costly (but cars often are) and it would be nice to know the final outcome.  FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

On line copy of Freelander 2 Workshop manual.

I don't have the time now, but somewhere in this manual is how to take out instrument panel, and shows earth somewhere down on transmission tunnel near drivers foot well. --- I think !!!! --- on my copy its hard to see and I haven't got time to download this one.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n0e6q5jj1l1fe2z FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Based on your test results it seems that the docking of the key and the start/stop button are working correctly. (With the errors that you noted)

I would rule out the starter motor next.

Check the voltage at the solenoid while a friend tries to start the motor.

If you are getting battery voltage and no cranking then replace the starter,

If you are not getting battery voltage to the solenoid then we need to figure out why the ECU wont even attempt starting.

If the clutch pedal switch is broken then the engine won't crank (this is one of many possible causes)


Here is an interesting Volvo forum link

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.ph...ontrol-wtf

Possible solutions from the link

* Battery drained
* Water in the CEM (this is the electrical box above the fuses in the passenger foot well)
* Loose ECU
* CAN wiring intermittent contact
* Loose ground for CEM (Sid and Ian mentioned this also)
* Broken ABS module
* DEM wiring melted by Exhaust (for the Freelander this would be the Haldex wiring)


Good luck

Paul

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n0e6q5jj1l1fe2z

Instrument Panel and Console - Instrument PanelTD4 2.2L Diesel
Removal and Installation

On page 2264 (of 3224) --- diagram 14 --- it shows the earth chassis connection.

Earth is G3D134-1 and is Black/Violet 1.5

If you down load this (without signing in) it has all the info for your MY07 FL2. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Last edited by IanMetro on 29th Mar 2018 6:35 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Thanks Ian for the manual link, looks my Easter break is sorted, I will go through it, only 3200 pages showing on my phone.
Checked voltages, no difference if button is pressed or not:
battery 12.1v
Ecu 12.1v
Big terminal on starter 12v
Solenoid terminal nothing.

Very interesting thread on volvo forum. A will check haldex, abs and dashboard earths on Friday. Are landrover and volvo using the same components?
Thanks
Les

A battery at 12.1 volts may still be duff as it needs to be a load test.

Example.

 FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

The Freelander 2 was designed by Land Rover when Ford was the parent company.

To save money Ford instructed Land Rover to use the Volvo platform as the starting point (Ford also owned Volvo at that time)

For my 2008 LR2 I think of the 2008 XC70 as a first cousin. Note: S60, S80, XC90, XC60 also share similar parts.

If you look closely you will find FoMoCo on a lot of parts.

And for my 3.2 6 cylinder its identical to the 3.2 used in the XC70 (I'm not sure about the Diesel)

The problems that you are fighting are shared with the Volvo

Good luck

Paul

Also from the workshop manual on page 2059

Quote:

The system is automatic and requires no input from the driver. The engine management system will
only allow engine
crank when an authorization data message is received from the CJB. The engine start system is
initiated when the start/stop switch and the brake pedal (automatic transmission) or the clutch
pedal (manual transmission) are pressed simultaneously.

The engine management system (ECM) will only allow engine crank, spark (petrol models only) and
injector functions when the following conditions are met:

A hardwired Park/Neutral signal is received from the Transmission Control Module (TCM) (automatic
transmission only)
A hardwired ignition signal is received from the CJB
A hardwired crank request signal is received from the CJB
Encrypted data exchange between the instrument cluster and the ECM is verified.


Before the CJB will send the hardwired ignition signal, it must satisfactorily complete the
following: Exchanged encrypted data with the start control module to validate the remote handset.


Additionally, before the CJB will send the hardwired crank request signal it must receive the
following signals: Brake signal from the brake switch (automatic transmission) or clutch signal
from the clutch switch (manual ardwired transmission in Park (P) signal from the selector lever assembly (automatic transmission
only).