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phillithom

Member Since: 13 May 2016
Location: Cheltenham
Posts: 19

2011 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Stornoway Grey

Have a look at the pictures that I posted - they are quite detailed and might help you

5th Mar 2018 9:22 am

gasman

Member Since: 02 May 2013
Location: Tyneside
Posts: 891

2009 Freelander 2 TD4_e GS Manual Zermatt Silver

NAZCA SAND 67 wrote:
Yes I know the tank has to be dropped now. However I’d like to chat with someone who actually has carried out the repair themselves. When looking into the neck of the tank only one black connector is visible, and my mechanic removed this and crimped the wires as per landrover guidelines. But he failed to remove the internal pump and sender units from the tank and it is my belief there is another connector he hasn’t seen and replaced, hence the issue is still there.
And to clarify, those wires are stainless steel so crimping is a must.

Sorry for late reply.
I did this repair myself over a year ago. I can't remember exactly what I took out of the tank but the offending connector was a black snap together thing. Cut that off and soldered the wires together, mine were copper.
I don't have any photos but I have a post with the info. I do know that Divewally has a post with photos, that's what I followed.
If you have made the repair your issue could be the senders themselves. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

5th Mar 2018 3:43 pm

NAZCA SAND 67

Member Since: 14 Jul 2014
Location: South East
Posts: 42

2007 Freelander 2 TD4 S Manual Nazca Sand

phillithom wrote:
Have a look at the pictures that I posted - they are quite detailed and might help you

Is that in your gallery? The ones from the landrover bulletin. Yes have those already printed off but they are vague. States up to three connectors may be present. It does not give the locations or if removal of all internals is required. My mechanic argues he cut out the only connector yet fault remains. I’m wondering is there a second connector that only is visible when the internal pump and sender units are actually removed, something he failed to do.

To resolve this I now have to do the work myself outside on the drive and in the current cold conditions. Not good. Just wish someone who has actually carried out the repair themselves can say yes it’s only one connector or no, there is another that you find when removing the sender units. He’s a good mechanic so don’t doubt him but with the issue not resolved I’m reluctant to hand over money for a job not fixed.

5th Mar 2018 6:37 pm

NAZCA SAND 67

Member Since: 14 Jul 2014
Location: South East
Posts: 42

gasman wrote:
NAZCA SAND 67 wrote:
Yes I know the tank has to be dropped now. However I’d like to chat with someone who actually has carried out the repair themselves. When looking into the neck of the tank only one black connector is visible, and my mechanic removed this and crimped the wires as per landrover guidelines. But he failed to remove the internal pump and sender units from the tank and it is my belief there is another connector he hasn’t seen and replaced, hence the issue is still there.
And to clarify, those wires are stainless steel so crimping is a must.

Sorry for late reply.
I did this repair myself over a year ago. I can't remember exactly what I took out of the tank but the offending connector was a black snap together thing. Cut that off and soldered the wires together, mine were copper.
I don't have any photos but I have a post with the info. I do know that Divewally has a post with photos, that's what I followed.
If you have made the repair your issue could be the senders themselves.

Thanks. Can you recall was it one connector or two or even three as landrover suggest in the technical bulletin?
I will look up Divewally as well thanks.

5th Mar 2018 6:39 pm

NAZCA SAND 67

Member Since: 14 Jul 2014
Location: South East
Posts: 42

gasman wrote:
NAZCA SAND 67 wrote:
Yes I know the tank has to be dropped now. However I’d like to chat with someone who actually has carried out the repair themselves. When looking into the neck of the tank only one black connector is visible, and my mechanic removed this and crimped the wires as per landrover guidelines. But he failed to remove the internal pump and sender units from the tank and it is my belief there is another connector he hasn’t seen and replaced, hence the issue is still there.
And to clarify, those wires are stainless steel so crimping is a must.

Sorry for late reply.
I did this repair myself over a year ago. I can't remember exactly what I took out of the tank but the offending connector was a black snap together thing. Cut that off and soldered the wires together, mine were copper.
I don't have any photos but I have a post with the info. I do know that Divewally has a post with photos, that's what I followed.
If you have made the repair your issue could be the senders themselves.

Gasman I’ve tried looking for Divewally but can’t find him? Can you post a link to him or has he left the forum and deleted his posts? Thanks

6th Mar 2018 1:04 am

Milltime

Member Since: 22 Apr 2018
Location: Ross on Wye
Posts: 21

2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Zermatt Silver

Used driverwally's excellent photos and instructions to fix our fuel tank last October. I too soldered the wires. No problems at all since. Fantastic info!

3rd Oct 2018 5:32 pm

The Masked Banana

Member Since: 25 Oct 2010
Location: Surrey
Posts: 31

2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

Pages seven and eight on this thread.
[/b] First and only FL2 from new. Stornaway Grey 77k

2nd Nov 2018 6:52 pm

Grue

Member Since: 29 Apr 2018
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 364

2007 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Auto Sumatra Black

Well looks like I'm in the club as well.... Full tank but only reading 1/2.

Can't seem to find much on the temp. resistor fix to stop the car from shutting down and leaving you stranded... Where abouts do I actually put these?

9th Dec 2018 11:29 pm

Andy131

Member Since: 09 Dec 2009
Location: Manchester
Posts: 2175

Look in topic

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic17063-30.html

Page 3

Easiest way, lift rear seat base, large rubber bung on RH side, lift bung and the fuel tank sender is exposed fit the resistors here. remember if you disconnect the plug from the sender you also disconnect the power from the transfer pump, so you only have half the capacity you think you should have. As a get you home it works well. I f you run out these cars are a complete to prime Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

10th Dec 2018 8:16 am

Grue

Member Since: 29 Apr 2018
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 364

Thanks so much Andy

Of course it's the side with the childs car seat... I should have expected that

10th Dec 2018 8:14 pm

konstantinos_north

Member Since: 21 Oct 2014
Location: Thessaloniki
Posts: 15

2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Santorini Black

Well about time to join the Erratic fuel gauge club.
It just happens sometimes and only when fuel level is just below red which turns to zero. Sometimes it will trigger reduced power mode but as soon as you fill the tank it works well.

Also sometimes even restarting the engine can get rid of it. I'll follow the wait and see procedure for a while and maybe replace faulty wiring during service early next year.

At least the LR bulletin doesn't warn on potential risks from the corroded wiring.

6th Dec 2019 2:55 pm

Grue

Member Since: 29 Apr 2018
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 364

After a couple of hard resets, mine has no longer been doing this. Coming up almost a year now and no repeats.

8th Dec 2019 7:24 pm

brengun

Member Since: 08 Mar 2013
Location: New Forest
Posts: 39

Fuel gauge was dropping to zero when he got just below half a tank. I disconnected battery for 10mins and I'm hoping that this has fixed it. I have just run fuel down until low warning light came on as normal. All good so far.

just thought I would share.

19th Feb 2021 12:03 pm

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