I had a starting problem (which eventually got fixed with a software update), in the course of investigating this I bought an IID tool, which recently flagged up a failed Glow Plug. Researching what was involved in a glow plug change led me to the intake manifold, which led me into swirl flap problems, which led me into gunking up issue which led me into EGR problems which led me to the PCV which led me up to the rather infamous oil drip from the air intake pipe joint.

Let me just state I am no mechanic, I can follow instructions and do my own maintainence to a certain extent, but I may well have got some of the following wrong.

So, the gunky EGR and swirl flaps can be helped by simply fitting an EGR blanking plate, so I ordered one of those and fitted it. As can be seen for the pic below the pipe was beginning to gunk up, it really was a thick oily sludge. I'll address the swirl flaps, maybe removing them, when I get around to doing the glow plugs later in the year when its warmed up a bit.



The fix for the oil drip at the air inlet pipe joint is to simply replace the oem clip with a tightened up jubilee clip. Except that doesn't really fix the problem, it just stops it being visible. The real problem is the oil shouldn't really be there in the first place. So just a bit of history that I have gleaned on PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation). When an engine is running, pressure builds up in it, to reduce this pressure the engine is ventillated via the PCV pipe. This used to be open to the air, but the air that came out was full of oil vapours, so in these enviornmentally enlightened days things changed. The oil vapours were routed back into the engine via the air intake pipe after the air filter. The Freelander does have mechanisms (oil mist sepeartors) built into it but they obviously have limited use as can be observed by the oil dripping from the air filter pipe. Consequently this oily air gets fed into the turbo and pistons and just helps to gunk things up especially when mixed with recyled soot from the EGR.

So research into this led me intitially onto Catch Cans and then Oil Separators. There isn't much about these in the Freelander forum but there is quite a bit in the Defender Forum, and I eventually decided I would not fit a Catch Can, but have a go at fitting a Provent 200 Oil Separator as the Defenders have done. Either device is simply placed inline in the pcv hose, in the case of the catch can, the oil mist enters through the input pipe, the oil returns to liquid form as it condenses on the internal surfaces, some will have a wire mesh inside to enhance the surface area, and the now cleaner air exits the catch can via its output pipe, which is routed back to the air intake. Every now again you have to empty your catch can of oil.

The Provent is similar, except it is not designed to store the captured oil. It has a filter built into it that the oil mist must pass though before it can get back to the output pipe, the captured oil drains to the bottom where it can exit via an oil drain pipe, the intention of this drain pipe is to route the oil back to the sump, thus reducing any oil loss. The Provent also has an inbuilt safety release valve that will vent off any pressure should the filter get blocked. A further attraction of the Provent 200 is the bore size of its pipes are slightly larger than the bore size of the Freelanders PCV hose. One of the things you have to be careful with is not to reduce bore sizes of any of the pipework or connectors as this can lead to pressure build up back in the engine resulting in things like the dip stick blowing out of its holder.

So I ordered a Provent, (with the optional non-return valve, more on that later). It's pretty expensive, especially when compared to a simple Catch Can. When I unpackaged the Provent it was a bit bigger than I was expecting, but I wasn't worried as there is quite a bit of space in the engine bay around the air filter. Lots of space there may be, but finding somewhere to fix it to took quite a bit of fiddling, positioning, re-positioning, head scratching, pondering and general leaning and staring into the engine bay. The provent comes with a bracket which mostly gets in the way. Even with that removed, everywhere I placed it, there seemd to be a bit of Freelander that was always just in the way. On one of my lean and stare moments, contemplating drilling holes in the chassis, I wedged the Provent to one side, looked at where I had wedged it and thought sod it, I'll just cable tie it in place there.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

I didn't think this was an issue so decided to crack the plastic intake pipe after the crankcase union. I found that oil was sitting on the lower part of the pipe, not just some residue but legit black gold.

How does the oil go in the intercooler?

Could there be some lubrication of the turbo that was planned by LR or is this just a consequence of the crankcase breather having to go somewhere without ruining the planet even faster?

g

Well due to my bike being off the road for 3 weeks waiting for parts to come in, I have been using the Freelander, so after 900 miles of use I had a peek inside the Provent, certainly seems to have oil travelling thought it.

 
Hung like Einstein, smart as a horse.

Last edited by shiggsy on 12th Mar 2017 10:42 am. Edited 1 time in total

didnt understand the last bit  1978 Laverda Jota. Stolen...
1980 Honda CBX1000 6cyl.
1978 Laverda Montjuic.
2010 Yamaha MT01.

Edited and added the key word 'oil' into the sentence. I don't use the Freelander a lot so it might have taken many months to see if any oil is being diverted through the Provent, with the bike down for maintenance I had to use the Freelander for 3 weeks of commuting.

The image is a view into the Provent from the top, it's quite clearly extracted a significant amount of oil from the air. Not sure how much as I haven't examined the drain tube yet. 
Hung like Einstein, smart as a horse.

Is this the same for an Auto FL or just for a manual FL ? where is the best place to obtain the Fluro hoses please.

I have not seen this post before but its a lot of expense over a few drops of oil and yes mine does the same and I just wipe it all clean now and then. Or am I missing something ? Great write up though.

Going back 45 years ago BMC modified the Morris Oxford and similar and introduced a crankcase breather system, this was ostensibly to reduce crankcase pressure and stop oil leaks. I modded quite a few over many months under warranty. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

rather than the cost of a few drops of oil, it's the damage those few drops of oil do when they form a solid gunk in the inlet manifold that seems to be the benefit of capturing the oil. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Good point. I use a fuel additive. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Yorky Bob wrote:

I have not seen this post before but its a lot of expense over a few drops of oil and yes mine does the same and I just wipe it all clean now and then. Or am I missing something ? Great write up though.

Going back 45 years ago BMC modified the Morris Oxford and similar and introduced a crankcase breather system, this was ostensibly to reduce crankcase pressure and stop oil leaks. I modded quite a few over many months under warranty.

Have one, but it has oil everywhere

Click image to enlarge

Is there any way to servic/clean the PCV system to prevent the amount of oil into the inlet? I guess a worn turbo also migth contribute to some oil in the intake. Mine has more than enough oil in the intake system. Its even some traces of oil leakage at the intercooler inlet:

Click image to enlarge

I am giving a "#%¤"#¤ at this right now, but something needs to be done sooner or later. The question is more, how much oil in the system is OK?? Oil weeoing at all the joints in the inlet system seem to me to be excessive.

That sort of mess on the intercooler could possibly be due to a crack in the intercooler itself. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Agreed as above FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Arctic wrote:

where is the best place to obtain the Fluro hoses please.

Yorky Bob wrote:

but its a lot of expense over a few drops of oil

Especially as I only do 3-4k miles per year I was just interested in doing it really. 
Hung like Einstein, smart as a horse.

Yorky Bob wrote:

Agreed as above

The big problem with all this crap going back towards the cylinders PCV is that it clogs up the turbo, intercooler, inlet manifold, EGR device, inlet valve stems and valves. With direct injection the muck doesnt get washed away and slows builds up and causes issues long term. Jules