Got to say the service was good to get a lump like this in 24 hours.

New battery fitted, bit of a faff job compared to some cars. Hopefully thats one problem not going to hit me in the middle of Winter for the next few years.

Ignoring the throttle body at present as its making the odd click.  FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Battery ordered yesterday afternoon arrived today at 1pm. Throttle Body from Duckworth LR arrived with the same courier. Did you disconnect power completely with battery change over? Did you have to reset anything?

Yes disconnect,Windows will want resetting.

Cover off, air filter casing out and off car. Split neg lead so it would swing clear, tied Pos lead up out of way. Securing bolt off the tray, vent pipe off and out and swapped.

Car was off power for 10 minutes at most. May have to reset windows but seems otherwise OK but no sat nav on GS. Will have a run out soon for fuel and shopping so will know better then if a system needs a boot up the backside. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

The vent pipe confused me at first. From what I remember you have to lever out a plug on the new battery, then just push the pipe in. Had to reset the windows, and the mileage counter reset itself to zero. There is no radio code to worry about. Ex AA Series III LWB Safari - Gone
300TDi Disco (bought new - terrible car) sent back after 18 months
Freelander 1 Estate - leased, given back at end of lease
200TDi Disco (bought from a mate with 100,000 on the clock) - Gone
Disco 2 TD5 - sold and exported to France
FR2 TD4 GS - Gone
FR2 SD4 HSE - Now changed for a DS
New model ex-demo Evoque S 180 in white
Unable to order a new DS, so gave up. Now have a Volvo S90 Recharge.

Date and time goes off the display. Easy enough to reinstall. Also looks like the trips zero. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Had warning lights come up on dash, when out called landrover assist , got it booked into dealer
gave me replacement discovery for 2 days said it was all fixed , had it back 2 hrs same thing again
this time they had it a week ..... read up on here .. seems like low voltage (just 3 week before 3years old still under warrenty)
did a check when I got it back NEW BATTERY fitted .... no more problems, but mine does sit outside has never been in a garage execpt for service and it does get snuggled by sheep in the winter when it has been on a run and is warm ....

the previous one only lasted 3 years up here (battery that is must not like the cold and rain up here on top of the mountain ...)

so expect 3 years no more seems like right thing to do is change it .. Wales
Were the mud is thicker, and the ruts are deeper.
(And we have the water to wash it off, and more on the way..! )
Sd4 and chrome Ar*e piece, Auto box for best fun
09 Xs Gone
12 xs Gone
HSE with Leather seats and 4 years warrenty.. staying for now !

Low Voltage Warning started on my car over the last week or two
I ran the Battery through a CTEK recondition but the warning appeared again today.
so new Battery on route from Tayna. being An auto and no bump start option as we head into Winter
common sense prevailed rather than wait for the day it has died altogether.
I guess it has lasted 4years.
we'll see how the new one fares.
the Tayna page lists battery as an 096 when in fact it is a 110 variant

Click image to enlarge

I fitted this last week to a my13:

https://www.tayna.co.uk/F21-Varta-Start-St...P8720.html FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

I had planned to put a new battery in my car this year. The low battery warning is getting shorter & shorter. Down to a few minutes now even after the car has been running for half an hour. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

I got one of those batteries of eBay last year £89.50 plus £7.50 delivered. Exactly the same as the old one on the car. For some reason it comes with the JLR logo tipexed out. Same size same amps etc. Only time will tell but so far so good.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Fitted my F21 today and plugged in the Nanocom to reset the battery. Couldn't find where to do it but the stop- start kicked in when I was out today so I gather it worked it out for itself.

I also managed to snap the intake tube clamp when tightening it up after fitting. Nowhere locally sells the Norma 9mm x 70-90 clamp and ebay is only offering me a pack of 10, happy days.

g

Installed a new Varta F19 silver dynamic 85Ah 800CCA which replaced the LR (Exide) 80Ah 700CCA. The car didn't actually need it yet but I don't want to be stuck beyond the black stump! We saw 3 cars in remote areas that needed to be jump started in the morning over a 6 weeks holiday in NSW, Subaru, Skoda & Toyota, & not old models either! http://www.batteriesdirect.com.au/shop/pro...(f19).html

Not too difficult, a bit of pushing cables out of the way, & reset the clock, time & date. (I did have an Anderson plug on top of the battery but have removed it to upgrade it)

Click image to enlarge

I have a 175Amp Anderson plug attached to the front grille. (top right-hand corner)
My jump leads come in two halves, short lead with Anderson and crock clips, and a long one with Anderson and crock clips. This way I don't have to open my bonnet to jump someones vehicle. Also the crop clips have a flexible copper link between the jaws, ensuring the current goes to both jaws of each clip.

+1 for Tanya and +1 for Varta - Silver or AGM.

Just be aware that Tanya battery selector is a bit rubbish.

Easy enough to check your measurements and then you have the correct battery (from memory 315x175x190)

Sensible folk on here pre-empting that dead battery!

One way you can tell if the battery is going I have found is to use a cigar lighter voltmeter - if the battery is sound, there should be periods when the battery is not being charged by the car and the volts will drop to well under 13 volts. It will rise over 14 on overrun. If the volts are nailed high, the battery is coming to the end of it's life. It's counter intuitive, but ranging volts implies a strong battery, but fixed high volts suggests the opposite.