alex_pescaru wrote:

MCJ
That ATF you put is quite inadequate for our boxes...
The box uses a slip-controlled lock-up torque converter clutch and the oil quality and proprieties are quite specific.
You can say that this type of autoboxes have an oil type on its own. It is equivalent with Toyota Type IV (T-IV) fluid and only that.
Better use the recommended oil or you risk wearing out the TC clutch quite rapidly.

As per GL5 oil, you can read this topic and see there various oils that are GL5: https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic29861.html

Hi Alex,i

Thank you for verifying, I bought the fuchs Titan IIIG at an LR independent workshop 3 weeks ago and had many sleepless nights researching and could not find any reference to AW1 ATF however I contacted the LR independent numerou times to confirm if they have supplied the correct ATF and they recon they are using that for year with no problem and also emailed fuchs head office











Just for peace of mind I want to switch to the correct Fuchs Titan 4400 and would like your advise if it will be ok to completely use the 20L to clean the black ATF then start adding the recommended ATF incremental?

After reading on the net a found this forum this topic about Dexron III on TF-80SC

http://forum.index.hu/Article/showArticle?...;t=9132911

The fact that various oils meets both specifications, this doesn't necessary means that one specification can be substituted with the other and used in its place...
And these multi-specification oils, I for one, I regard them with caution... Indeed oil is oil, at its base, but like with the engine oils, it's better to use the correct specification, because each has its own set of additives, for that specific application.
For example, on a sport car that says that for the engine should be used 0W30, it's correct to use 15W40? At the base, maybe 90% of both oils have the same base, but those 10%, in various additives, make the difference.
Only my 2 cents...
Here's another alternative for you, to confuse you more.
It's even saying that meets LR002748 specification, besides JWS3309 and T-IV.
http://www.ravenol.de/en/products/usage/d/...fluid.html

Yes Alex, it can be confusing. My preference is also to use a specific JWS3309 ATF rather than a "universal" type.

What must be considered is that ATF when used in auto boxes is not merely a lubricant. It is: 1, a hydraulic fluid to facilitate the function of the auto box valve gear for gear selection; 2, a coolant to keep the auto box at the optimum temperature; 3, an interface between the auto box clutches to maintain designed clutch function; 4, a lubricant to minimise mechanical wear. A big task for one fluid!

Bob 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

^ +1

Remove the T40 integrated level plug and allow any surplus fluid to drain. If there is no surplus fluid drain, top up 100ml at a time until surplus fluid does drain. Once the steady flow is reduced to a drip, refit the drain plug.

Level check

If there is no surplus fluid close the level plug add 100mil then check at at time or just add while level plug is open until ATF start to run out, wait until stops close level plug and done?

Tnx

Works that way too. Don't forget, the engine must be running and box in Park when doing this.
And don't get fooled by the oil that collects in the tube before opening and drains when you open the plug. Ignore that.

Hello Alex,

Do you mean when I open the level plug and little fluid drips it's not significant?

Basically it should run out until it drips and stops?

BTW since sometime it's necessary to add fluid after level check engine should be running and trans on "P". after Adding the necessary amount that runs at level plug I should close level plug and go through the gear and check gain?

is there a problem if Temp is on 80 or I should let it cool down and check when is only 60 degrees ?

The checking principle is the one below:



Supposing that the oil level is correct, when you stop the engine, the part of the oil that is circulated through the autobox when the engine is running, is returning into the autobox sump and, of course, the level will rise.
This means that the checking tube will be filled with oil. When you start the engine and check the autobox oil level, the level will be again at the edge of the tube, but the tube will be filled with oil from when the engine was stopped.
When you unscrew the level checking screw (the inner one) the oil in tube will flow out leaving you the false impression that the oil level is correct, but maybe it is not.
Therefore add some more oil and if it will start flowing out, then stop adding and screw back the screw when the flow becomes a drip.

If the temp is 80 degrees, then, remember that you drain 3 liters from that oil at 80 degrees and then add 3 liters with about 30 degrees. So half/half. (30+80)/2 = 55 degrees. So you will have to warm it up in order to check the level.
In fact, I for one, put back about 3.5 liters instead of about 3.2 liters that flows out then start the engine and unscrew the level checking and let it flow out until it drips.

Last edited by alex_pescaru on 8th Jun 2019 12:44 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Hello Alex,

Thank you for th great explanantion I did the level on 80 add 500ml in the morning later to day drive and got transmission fault error and went back drained after a drive around 80 and drove for 20km with no issue so long.

Update !

After long drive +-30km, park the car for 2h, then drove for 2km then have started to get error messages such as transmission fault, special features off etc.No hdc and no esp.

Anyone experienced such doing ATF change or I'm dealing with another problem? I scanned with torque but finds no error! FOREVER LEARNING

They use the words "transmission error" for the Haldex errors too. Check that too for errors.

Hello Alex,

My problem is solved it was the level that caused the error since I did not have a measuring cup I mismatched the quantities and did not chase the old fluid. I solved by checking level at 60 degreees and finally after a long drive and it drained little ATF and all become normal.
I have to agree with you often when this special features and transmission fault comes up is haldex or diff the problem. I used torque pro to monitor temperature and when I got the error I scanned but no records found, is this app capable of reading error codes on LR or just wasn't any code really stored? It will be nice to know what apps one can use for this vehicles.

Thank you for the great explanation and support. FOREVER LEARNING

Don't know about that tester and its capabilities... Sorry.
And neither a small difference in fluid level shouldn't throw an error... There is something strange there.
Because, I for one, I usually add some 100-200 ml more than necessary and no error is thrown.

Alex,

Yes that's very odd if I have to think with a Fresh mind it should be tolerance and slo there is a pipe to release excess if not mistaken. Since I was mislead by LR independent with this DIIIG maybe it's some sensitivity because of comparability. I think I read about volvo with same box that had issues when DIII was used then was flushed with correct ATF it all became normal.
Thanks Fuchs they have now shipped me the Titian 4400 and soon I will be dumping and filling the correct stuff.

My diff is 6 months old however Haldex was never services. FOREVER LEARNING

EDIT: the fluid flow in the picture may be wrong, another poster pointed this out, be careful and only start the engine briefly to minimize the mess


An alternative way to flush the ATF fluid

1. Disconnect the hose shown by the red arrow (one Torx bolt)

2. attach an extension to the hose that will feed the fluid into a bucket (a tight fitting hose or a hose clamp will be needed)

3. turn on the engine for about 10 to 15 seconds (when it starts pumping air you need to stop the engine immediatly)

4. measure how much fluid you removed and add back the same amount

5. repeat steps 1 to 4 until you are satisfied that you flushed enough (for me I did three flushes of about 3.5 quarts)









Here is a diagram from Volvo for the drain plug in case you need a new drain bolt etc.





Volvo part numbers

17 Plug automatic transmission 30713219

18 O-ring automatic transmission 1233068

19 Gasket automatic transmission 30713220

16 Level indicating pipe automatic transmission 30713218




Good Luck

Paul

Last edited by p_gill on 16th Nov 2017 4:32 pm. Edited 1 time in total

dunkley201 wrote:

Yes Alex, it can be confusing. My preference is also to use a specific JWS3309 ATF rather than a "universal" type.

What must be considered is that ATF when used in auto boxes is not merely a lubricant. It is: 1, a hydraulic fluid to facilitate the function of the auto box valve gear for gear selection; 2, a coolant to keep the auto box at the optimum temperature; 3, an interface between the auto box clutches to maintain designed clutch function; 4, a lubricant to minimise mechanical wear. A big task for one fluid!

Bob

Excellent points Bob - good to remember when wading through the oil spec quagmire  Jules