de1979 wrote:

Seen a few of the nose bearings now and they all look identical. Shame it's never been nailed down as to a cause. Not to mix up threads but this is what worries me about the Haldex "dink" noise I and many others get when setting off. Land Rover blame the bearing failure on the way the Haldex applies torque from standstill and it certainly sounds and feels like there's some jolting going on. Love to know if the two things are related. Bell on the other hand say the bearing is too small, and no-one seems to really blame the oil.

Very interested in what you have to say about the different oil Paul Gill. Would you say this is the UK equivalent?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00307...QVK90UAMQF
I wonder if putting some 80w90 back in would make your noise return?

Spec says "where extreme pressures and shock loading are expected" - seems to fit with what Land Rover say!

Hi,
Yes, as already discussed in several threads, we can conclude that the factory fitted bearing is to small for the job. Sad that it took LR so long time before they replaced it with a bigger bearing from the factory (2015 Evoque?). Bell Engineering is the only one I know of who does this the correct way by modifying the diff to accept a larger bearing. In my case, I just have to stick with the truth that my diff will still have its weakness after the rebuild. The only thing I can do is to fit the best bearing I can find and use the best oil available. As I have a haldex gen.3, I am not able to update its software either. On the other hand, I hope the diff will last a reasonable amount of time before a potential failure. This is what I am planning to find out and a part of the project

de1979 wrote:

........ no-one seems to really blame the oil.

Very interested in what you have to say about the different oil Paul Gill. Would you say this is the UK equivalent?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00307...QVK90UAMQF
I wonder if putting some 80w90 back in would make your noise return?

Spec says "where extreme pressures and shock loading are expected" - seems to fit with what Land Rover say!

Look forward to it

DE1979

New thread started enjoy


MrRover75

Please excuse our distraction from your amazing DIY

Hi all,

I Have been busy with other things lately, but some more work has been done the last evenings. I continued with removing the pinion bearing races from the diff housing. The inner race was removed by punching it out with a suitable punch/drift sequentially side-by-side on its inner face. There is a shim between the bearing race end face and the diff housing, make sure this one don`T get damaged when punching out the bearing race. The thickness of this shim has probably been set at the factory to set the necessary pinion/crownwheel clearance?



I made a simple slide-hammer pulling tool for the outer bearings race. A suitable socket was found and mounted on the end of a M12 threaded rod. I found a good lump of steel and drilled a hole through to fit this one on the threaded rod. This made me able to pull out the bearing race:





The shaft seals was easily removed by punching out from the inside:



OK, Now everything is removed and the diff housing should be cleaned up throughly. All bearing and seal surfaces shall be inspected for damages and smoothed out with scotch brite i.e. as neccesary. Clean up the workbench and make everything ready for assembly.

Cleaned housing:

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Here are the new parts needed for the rebuild:

Outer pinion bearing - Timken 30206
Inner pinion bearing - Timken HM88649/HM88610 (Optional)
Collapsible spacer - LR023443
Retainer nut - LR050541
Pinion shaft seal - LR023442
Output shaft seals 2x - LR023440
Diff housing seal - LR030846
Diff to haldex seal - LR002888



Last edited by MRRover75 on 29th Aug 2017 9:09 am. Edited 1 time in total

A bit about the bearing set up:

The pinion shaft is held in place with two bearings. As I can see it, the shim found between the inner bearing and the housing is used to set the clearance between the crown wheel and the pinion gear. The thickness of this shim is probably picked based on several measurements done at the factory. I guess one of the reasons why this bearing is not replaced in the official LR procedure, is that a replacement of this bearing might disturb the running clearance, and it might probably be best to leave this one alone from a DIY perspective.
The pre-load between the bearings are set by the tightening of the retaining nut. The neccesary pre-load is achieved when the nut is tightened up enough when a torque of 1.1Nm +/-0,2Nm is needed to rotate the shaft continuously. A collapsible spacer is situated between the bearings inner races. This one will be compressed when tightening up the nut. I guess the main purpose with this spacer is to create sufficient axial force against the retainer nut to lock it in place as it has no other locking mechanism like 2 sets of nuts, locking tabs or locking pins which might be seen in common industrial bearing arrangements. A thread locker compound is pre-applied to the nut from the factory, and is probably the only reason why this one shall be replaced upon rebuild.

Bearing arrangement:

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

By experience, bearing races does have a tight fit but use to fit nicely if the rigth techniques is used. Basically it involves finding a way to press/pull the bearing race in squarely and with the load placed on the ring with tight fit. Heating/cooling the parts also helps a lot, but you need to work quick if heating is involved. I started with the pinion inner bearing. I found a suitable piece of tube that fit nicely over the input shaft, and made the end perfectly square. I put the shaft in the freezer for a couple of hours first, the heated the bearing slightly using a heat gun prior to assembly. The bearing slipped onto the shaft and only needed a few punches on the tube to get seated all to the bottom. Looking at the picture, you can see that the shaft is still cold:



Then I did the outer bearing race for the outer bearing. I put both outer bearing races into the freezer for a couple of hours first. I warmed up the diff housing using a heat gun prior to assembly. The outer bearing`s outer race was hammered easily in using the old bearing race and a suitable piece of tube:



I did a few similar attempts on the inner bearing`s outer race, but found it hard to get it in squarely. There is no parralell edges inside the housing to look at to confirm that the bearing is entered squarely before hammering it in. I decided to make a mounting bolt for this one. This is basically a piece of shaft with a flange that holds the bearing race centered and square, using the outer bearings outer race as a guide. The shaft has a snug fit inside the outer bearings race. Using a threaded rod and some steel bars together with heat/cold, pulled this bearing race nicely in position. Remember to put the shim in first!











Last edited by MRRover75 on 29th Aug 2017 10:17 am. Edited 3 times in total

What did that pile of parts cost you please ?

Shimming in the crown wheel is never going to be a a everyday DIY job, a very impressive write up.  FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Hi Bob,

Thanks for that

Most parts was bought from rimmebros. Its easily to find them there by searching on the part numbers. The bearings was bought from serious bearing sellers on ebay. These parts is not expensive

Great write up mate, the correct part number for the nut is LR050541 though 👍 (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

The collapsible spacer was put onto the input shaft and the shaft was then installed into the diff housing. Remember to oil the bearing first:



The inner bearing was heated up using a heat gun (60-80deg C i guess) before putting it onto the shaft.



Then I let everything cool down before proceeding with installing the retainer nut and tighten this to 250Nm using my tooling and torque wrench. As the nut is locked and shaft rotated, it shall be rotated counter clockwise for tightening:

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Badger51 wrote:

Great write up mate, the correct part number for the nut is LR050541 though 👍

Thanks, corrected now. It was a bit hard to read the part number from my picture

Hi all,

So, its time to finalize the assembly.
All cleaned up well and new seals installed.

Pinion seal in place:

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

I am not sure that I would do things different another time

Thoughts on drilling casing for a drain plug ? FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current