Just had a brain storm and remembered on the day it seem to fail my messages showed low coolant level, could this be an issue?

I park facing down hill and half of the time of start up is dispalys the messag, when on flat ground it goes off. This day it stayed on for about 1/4 mile.

Thinking now!

Get the kettle on, make a brew and read.

http://totalcarmagazine.com/tech/2013/07/3...ess_users/ FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Interesting read thanks

If anybody has time please listen to these recordings, Exhaust, tick over and underload file you can here a hollow sounding hiss. like air in the system.

your speakers might have to be up a little

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B-...sp=sharing

Sorry to be a pest but i could just do with a point out

Well this past few days i have replaced all turbo and inter cooler hoses to silicone, blanked off the egr, added another earth from the starter to the battery, changed the fuel filter and air filter. guess what still have the issue!!

looks like a new turbo is the answer

 FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Hi Proddy

Just picked this up.
I see your motor is an automatic, mine is a manual, don't know if that makes a difference.
I did all the things you have done and more before I had to bite the bullet and have the turbo replaced.
1. Changed the intercooler hoses to silicon.
2. Tested the intercooler for leaks
3. Changed maf sensor.
4. Removed and cleaned throttle body, also replaced a sensor on that, can't remember what its called.
5. Cleaned the exhaust side of the turbo ( whilst in position with exhaust disconnected ).

It was after number 5 that I realised it was the turbo. After removing the exhaust its possible to get hold of the impeller shaft and try and move it. Mine appeared to have excessive end float. Turbo bearing gone.

Original problem car would cough and wheeze under hard excelleration. But most worrying was the fact it would go into limp mode whilst tackling long up hill climbs.

Had the same DTC as you also.

At the time I couldn't get a supply only turbo or even a reconditioned one. Had to take it to a tubo specialist, £1300 but with an engine flush and service included.

Hope this helps a bit.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

many thanks gasman for your reply.

did you have an issue with rumbling sound in the air intake when idle, sounds like blowing after fitting the new hoses?

Hi Proddy

That's the strange thing, had no issues when car was at idle. Could also rev it to the red line when parked.
Only an issue under load, especially up hill.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

My 2011 FL2 went up one steep hill in 6th gear loaded up with zest. The current 2013 fairs far worse on the same hill but does give a better mpg return. Somewhere in the process of looking at loss of power it got to be worth ensuring that the software is still performing OK as my own experience is that these engines can vary so much with the way they are set up. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Proddy after reading through your thread, and seeing you already changed the intercooler hoses, that takes out an idea I had of a boost side air leak, I would double check the hose clamps.
The error code your getting does seem to relate to the position sensor on the turbo vane. It could be that the turbo vanes are sticking or that the link arm is tight. Make sure the vanes move freely by disconnecting the link arm from the sensor mounted on the turbo. the service book says waggle this link arm up and down 10 -20 times to ensure free movement of the vanes. On reassembly lubricate the link arm pivot points with high temp ptfe grease.
But it does seem that you are seeing the opposite to me. You have a loss of boost pressure, which does unfortunately point to the turbo.

As promised the final result

I replaced all hoses, blanked egr, added an extra earth strap, changed fuel and air filter.

Garage found a very small leak in the intercooler, this was not the issue! fitted full new turbo BINGO!! All sorted

Not bad cost either new intercooler, turbo including, bango bolt and all bits & labour £1240

The turbo was in full working order it was the electric side that was at fault.

I have posted this in my original post also and would like to thank the members of this forum for all the help.

Good to get the update.

So I take it the electric side is not available without a turbo or have I read something incorrect ? FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

That's correct, the arm on the actuator was stiff, this caused the electrics to burn out.

The annoying thing is the fault has likely been going since I got the car 3 years ago as it had the same noice as this thread.

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic15898.html

I complained to the dealer under warranty and they told me it was the norm with this model and not to worry, the noise is the actuator opening and closing the turbo but not fast enough.

I might be light of £1200 but I'm happy to get the car back to normal.

The actuator arm, and vane free up is part of the normal service routine according the service manual. All it involves is removing the actuator from the sensor and then waggling it 10 to 20 times. This makes sure the vanes in the turbo are free from soot and buildup. then reassemble with a high temp grease. Its a pity the dealer you bought the car from hadn't checked the service book. Would have saved you the £1200.
But now you have a good car, so alls well. Its a pity the electronic pack isn't sold separate.
I've noticed mine has started to give a puffing sound on slow 1st to 2nd change up, its service is due in the next couple of weeks, so will make sure I redo my turbo clean.
As to the over boost issue the MAP sensor change has cleared that up, done about 3000 miles since I changed it.