Let me start by saying that this is a real to do. I thought once I got in there I would have an "ah-ha" moment and realize there was a much easier way to change a simple belt. No. Land Rover clearly loves over engineer even the simplest things. Like🤔 Let's mount all the accessories on top of the transmission facing towards the back of the engine. 🤔Wait! I have an idea. Let's mount two idler pulleys, on the front of the back of the engine facing the complete opposite direction from the accessory pulleys. That will make it fun to push the belt off some pulleys and pull off the others😅 🤔 Let's leave absolutely no room between the engine and the accessories so regular joes cant just take off the belt and change it. 🤔I bet we could really make this hard by spring loading the power steering pump so it jumps away from the car when you unbolt it. For no reason😂 🤔Now what's the hardest most intimidating accessory we run on the belt. Oh yeah!! The ac compressor!! Let's make them take that off. 😂😂 🤔And I saved the best for last... wouldn't it be ironic if we make them have to remove the belt tensioner to keep them from completely removing the old belt before putting in the new one😅😅😅 what a riot you see because n a normal car all you do is loosen the tensioner AND THE BELT FALLS OFF😂😂👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼😂What on a car is more simple than the accessory belt change. Follow along kiddies. I would not perform this repair yourself if you have any doubts about your mechanical ability.

Last edited by Tubolove on 20th Jan 2017 1:10 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Now before we get started let me please clarify and say that this is just to chronicle how I repaired my vehicle. I am not a mechanic. As a matter fact I am a pharmacist. I am not suggesting in any way shape or form that this is how you repair your vehicle and should you attempt this repair you do so at your own risk.


Step one. Remove engine cover and disconnect battery. For those of you wondering the white is what happens when your brand new battery explodes inside your engine compartment and battery acid goes everywhere. Been working on cars 30 years. Never seen that actually happen before. Scared the heck out of my wifey. Sounded like a bomb she said.



Last edited by Tubolove on 20th Jan 2017 1:14 pm. Edited 2 times in total

step two? Common sense isn't very common.
_______________________________
2007 Land Rover Freelander2 I6 hse Auto

Have a beer.  Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

good call  Common sense isn't very common.
_______________________________
2007 Land Rover Freelander2 I6 hse Auto

I've done this on the 3,2 and it's an absolute bastard of a job...

You need to take the whole intake manifold off, and unbolt the airconditioning compressor, and literally sit in the engine bay to to get access to the bolts holding everything in.

Just awful... 2008 Freelander 2 HSE Si6 Black/Black - Hers
2009 Jaguar XKR 4.2 S/C Portfolio
2005 Jaguar XJR 4.2 S/C Black/Cranberry
2005 Jaguar X-Type 3.0L AWD - Gone

axle wrote:

step two?

Steve D wrote:

Have a beer.

Cambo wrote:

I've done this on the 3,2 and it's an absolute bastard of a job...

You need to take the whole intake manifold off, and unbolt the airconditioning compressor, and literally sit in the engine bay to to get access to the bolts holding everything in.

Just awful...

Anyway, back at it… Next remove the air inlet hose on the airbox

Unplug the mass airflow sensor and pull off the clip that holds it to the airbox. There's also a clip that holds the battery cable on the airbox...remove that also. Then simply pull the entire airbox assembly straight up. It's held in place by rubber clips.











Last edited by Tubolove on 20th Jan 2017 1:37 pm. Edited 2 times in total

To create enough room to work I suggest removing the battery and the battery box. Remove the battery using a 10 mm socket releasing the battery cables negative 1st and then the holddown bracket. Then use a 9 mm socket to remove the five bolts holding down the battery box and slide the box up and out.

I am not a mechanic. As a matter fact I am a pharmacist

Would have bee a doddle if you had trained as a gynaecologist.  FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Now we have to get at the vacuum pump. There is a wiring harness that runs over the top of the vacuum pump. Pull right up to remove the two retaining clips. This will give you access to the AC stabilizing bracket and vacuum pump. From here you have the choice to remove the vacuum pump or not. Removing it gives you a lot more room to work on the truck and I was rebuilding mine anyway so it was a no-brainer for me to remove it. Now remove the vacuum line from the vacuum pump by squeezing the clip and pulling it with gentle pressure. Now before you get to removing the vacuum pump if you look at pic number three the ac stabilizing bracket is in the way and that keeps you from getting to one of the bolts. Remove the bracket in the next picture with a 13 mm socket and a 10 mm socket. There are three retaining bolts that you can see loose in the picture. Then use a 10 mm socket to remove the two retaining bolts.
















Last edited by Tubolove on 20th Jan 2017 2:05 pm. Edited 2 times in total

Yorky Bob wrote:

I am not a mechanic. As a matter fact I am a pharmacist

Would have bee a doddle if you had trained as a gynaecologist.