So I took my freelander for some serious-ish offroading and i am afraid I ruined my clutch (opened another topic about that). What I would like to ask is: Is it possible to take the freelander (manual) offroading, given that it does not have a low range gearbox? I problem is that going uphill in mud and bumpy terrain I do not think you can get away without slipping and overheating (and ruining) the clutch. Or is there any other way?

I really love my freelander and would like to fit some nice wheels and guards to it but I am not spending a penny unless I know it can be done without spending 700+eur on a new clutch every time I take her offroading.

thanks!

Some photos:

Several years ago I took my first brand spanking new FL2 off road and realised that with a clutch it was going to burn out trying to climb slowly.

Shame they stopped production before I was really ready for another as that would have been a Auto for reasons above. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

All Freelanders are very capable off road, the electronics (according to LR) mean you don't need a low range box

You have to adapt your off road driving style and force the wheels to slip and spin before the electronics kick in and transfer power to the wheels with grip. The only real issue then is ground clearance.

The problem with having a manual gearbox and this 4X4 set up means that a lot of time is spent riding the clutch and putting it under strain.

The clutch and flywheel on manuals are rubbish without ever going off road, and its recommended by owners that if you intend to do much off road or towing then the auto gearbox is the one to have.

Sadly if your clutch has failed your options are to replace the clutch (and flywheel while your at it), and then adjust your off roading to minimise the strain (different routes etc)

OR

Sell the manual FL2 and get an auto.

No need to ride the clutch, the manual models are fitted with anti stall mechanisms, crawl along and leave the clutch alone let the car do the work, if if feels like it is going to stall, it won't, at that point apply a bit more power.
The better option, of course, get an auto.

didn't know about the anti-stall feature.

trouble is that 95% of people's driving style and habits will mean they (including me) will most likely ride the clutch.

I loved my auto FL2 over both manuals that I previously owned.

My current Ewok is a manual, and its a nicer box to drive than the FL2 manual... but id still prefer the auto

taztastic wrote:

No need to ride the clutch, the manual models are fitted with anti stall mechanisms, crawl along and leave the clutch alone let the car do the work, if if feels like it is going to stall, it won't, at that point apply a bit more power.

When my son, who does a lot of driving around farms, replaced his FL2 manual with a Mitsubishi L200 manual he found that having a diff lock and low range made quite a difference over the same farm tracks as it just keeps going. He always rated the FL2 as very good off road but reckons that the simpler L200 setup is superior in practice. You just have to do the thinking and know when to switch over.
I mentioned this to a LR salesman and he sort of agreed but said that the LR aim is to sell 4WD to people who don't know what it's all about and probably wouldn't know what to do with a low range box. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Land Rover's line that the FL2 doesn't need a low range 'box "because of the electronics" did make me laugh!

The 3 FL2's that I had were all great off road but the lack of low range removed so much low speed control and made travelling in convoy with regular LR's extremely difficult. It is a much bigger problem than the ground clearance - though Mantec make great tank and dump guards for the FL2. Yes, the auto is much better off road, but my first two manuals did well enough off road without burning a clutch out, but it's still the least robust bit about the car and regular off road use will certainly finish off a partially worn clutch.

Same here, I just stick it in first, let the clutch out and let the car pull itself along. If it sounds like its gonna start to stall (it does take a lot!) just give it a blip on the throttle to keep the revs up and it will go fine.I do think it is a bit more difficult if you have stopped on a hill to get the above going again mind!

I drive against the normal rules, I stop scan out a route then do it fast. never planning to stop unless the car is in a place where gravity will help it roll again.
On the 4x4 day at keilder this was seen by a few as wrong,, someone said I was cheating, but I got round easily and no smelly clutch. I would have gone faster but kept stopping to wait for the disco boys stopping and discussing each and every bump in the road and how best to make the approach.
avoid at all cost slipping into old ruts, drive with your wheel in middle of track and other side on the verge. even when the going is good as you may become unable to get out of the ruts approaching the worst places. At work
At home

"I can't always believe facts I read on the web" - Charles Dickens

winner by default of the tractor vs caravan race

thanks for all the replies guys! all are really helpful. I have got one question - on my last offroad tour (also my first ever as a driver), i was in a muddy clay hill. I therefore selected mud ruts in the terrain response and hill decent came on automatically. since the going down was very bumpy and you have to think well how to approach it, i thought might as well turn it off, so I did. going up is the same story and I thought hill decent would not be useful anyway. Now I am thinking if maybe the hill decent would help me crawl slowly uphill without stalling?

Hill descent won't stop you stalling going up, but it works wonders coming down, even if it is a bit freaky to use the first time!

For once I agree with CG

Speed (lets say 15mph) is your friend, and those with low range will call you foolish.
in ruts keep one wheel in the center an one on the embankment - this can sometimes be a little scary, but after you have ripped out a couple of sidewalls on nearly new AT2's you will wish you had.

The instructor at Cheshire LR experience had a laugh when he first saw my driving style and pointed out that their course was no where near as bad as some that I had obviously been "playing "on. Not that it was wrong, just not necessary on their course. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Steven.T wrote:

Same here, I just stick it in first, let the clutch out and let the car pull itself along. If it sounds like its gonna start to stall (it does take a lot!) just give it a blip on the throttle to keep the revs up and it will go fine.I do think it is a bit more difficult if you have stopped on a hill to get the above going again mind!

I just went and tried the non stalling mechanism up a steep hill and was impressed. It allowed me to crawl up at 6kph without touching the accelerator.

Re 15mph up offroading.. dont think i will ever do that.. not on the terrain where i was