Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Members Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In |
Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Changing brake fluid |
|
|
Steve D Member Since: 19 Jan 2013 Location: Essexshire Posts: 4109 |
Short answer - yes. It helps if you can remove the existing fluid from the reservoir first but basically, connect the tool up with fresh fluid to the reservoir, pressurise it and just open each bleed nipple in turn (starting furthest away from the master cylinder) until the fluid runs clear. That way you know that you've got all the old fluid out. Don't let your reservoir of fluid run dry though! Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
|
||
25th Oct 2016 7:24 am |
|
Yorky Bob Member Since: 28 Apr 2015 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 4561 |
Did mine with no special kit just some washer pipe and a plastic bottle. Best if you have a partner to press pedal but I managed that on my own and no problems.
|
||
25th Oct 2016 9:04 am |
|
valleyboy Member Since: 11 Dec 2010 Location: South Wales. Posts: 223 |
Thanks for the advice. I'll either attempt it myself, or ask my friend who does my servicing what he would charge. |
||
25th Oct 2016 12:10 pm |
|
SakoQuad Member Since: 15 Jun 2013 Location: Gloucester Posts: 314 |
I had my car serviced recently, I asked for the brake fluid to be changed as it was last done 3 years ago but was told it was not needed as modern brake fluid was much improved and not as hygroscopic as yesteryears version - unless I was using it the track or similar i.e. very hard frequent braking. Garage reckoned good for at least 5 years.
|
||
25th Oct 2016 9:51 pm |
|
Yorky Bob Member Since: 28 Apr 2015 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 4561 |
Much improved pedal on mine once done at only 3 years and fluid costs about £10. No brainer. ⚰ FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
|
||
25th Oct 2016 10:25 pm |
|
MartynB Member Since: 08 Aug 2011 Location: Currently Rootless ! Posts: 1780 |
IMHO They are talking rubbish. Glycols are hygroscopic and I would prefer to be near the top of the range than near the wet boiling point. Just sitting in the system from day one and the boiling point will start to change. As per advice from people above it costsh about £40 or £50 to have the fluid changed, it is not worth not doing it to schedule. It's not about heavy braking on track, how about coming down a twisty steep decline on the brakes. One thing to note is not all fluids of the same designation are the same performance wise . Use a branded fluid, Shell, Castrol, Brembo , Motul etc that meets LR specifications. 2009 GS Auto Zermatt Silver - Sold June 21 after 10 years of ownership 2016 Subaru Outback SE 2.0 diesel SE Premium Lineartronic Sold 2024 after 8 years and 80k miles . Best Car I ever owned ! 2023 Toyota Hilux invincible X 2.8 Auto . |
||
26th Oct 2016 8:46 am |
|
Eurolandy Member Since: 09 Oct 2010 Location: Cleveleys, Lancashire Posts: 285 |
Has anyone changed the clutch fluid at the same time as the brake fluid? Isn’t it the same reservoir? Gone:
|
||
26th Oct 2016 11:22 am |
|
SakoQuad Member Since: 15 Jun 2013 Location: Gloucester Posts: 314 |
Hmmm pretty much my thinking I must say. Being a mechanical incompetent I do have to rely on "experts" the cost wasn't a concern - I wanted it done - but garage were adamant it wasn't needed. I'll take it elsewhere and get it done I guess, don 't like the idea of taking any chances at all with brakes! Cheers chaps |
||
26th Oct 2016 9:38 pm |
|
Yorky Bob Member Since: 28 Apr 2015 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 4561 |
I would avoid the big boys, you could well be told you need a whole new braking system, perfect job for a trusted local small garage and dare I say it if done while you wait cash goes a long way. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
|
||
26th Oct 2016 9:54 pm |
|
Todologo Member Since: 17 Apr 2016 Location: Madrid Posts: 9 |
Hello everyone
|
||
31st Oct 2016 3:49 pm |
|
GeorgeB Member Since: 26 Feb 2012 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 54 |
I found that a litre was enough. I tested the fluid I bled from each caliper and the only one that indicated any water content was the one furthest from the master cylinder. I didn't need to bleed much fluid from the other calipers. |
||
31st Oct 2016 4:12 pm |
|
Todologo Member Since: 17 Apr 2016 Location: Madrid Posts: 9 |
Thanks |
||
31st Oct 2016 5:08 pm |
|
Winslet Member Since: 01 Oct 2013 Location: Bedfordshire Posts: 281 |
Changed mine at the weekend - used 1.5 litres of the specified Shell ESL fluid (£7 for 500ml from my nearest fuel station), although any other low viscosity fluid (ISO 4925 class 6) should be fine. No need to remove the wheels, the rear bleed nipples I could reach from underneath and the fronts by turning the wheel to full lock as required.
|
||
1st Nov 2016 8:27 pm |
|
Winslet Member Since: 01 Oct 2013 Location: Bedfordshire Posts: 281 |
Update on my previous post - brakes are definitely much improved, particularly with braking towards a road junction or roundabout from speed, the braking is smoother and with the same braking effort throughout the braking phase, sustained until the end. I always felt I had to push harder towards the end to maintain the same level of retardation.
|
||
24th Nov 2016 9:24 pm |
|
|
All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis