After my experience of topping up the Haldex curing a thump that I was getting when reversing I have developed a paranoia for all things associated with the diff/Haldex/propshafts etc.

Anyway, about a week ago I noticed on my 3.5 mile trip to the office that approximately halfway there would be a steady repetitive noise which appears to be coming from the rear. It increases with speed but is a low thump if you will (transmission noises are very difficult to describe aren't they?) It is very similar to the noise you have if there is a nail in your tyre but is isn't present when the car is cold it usually comes in after 3-4 minutes of driving and is particularly noticeable at 35-45 mph.

There doesn't appear to be anything loose underneath, although there is some play in the driveshafts as they enter the diff but that doesn't explain the noise coming in when the car is getting warm.

Any reassuring thoughts out there? 2010MY 2.2 e4 (gone but, not forgotten)
Audi TT Roadster 3.2 DSG
FFRR Westminster 4.4 TDV8 (L322)

Last edited by philclemo on 28th Jun 2016 1:03 pm. Edited 3 times in total

I had a rotational thump at low speeds, sounded a bit like I was going over very small speed bumps or expansion joints on a road surface. The noise went away when I replaced the tyres, nothing obviously wrong with tyes bulges or the like but tread was down to a couple of mm

Thanks Ricky. I might try a bit of a swap around to see if the noise moves with it! 2010MY 2.2 e4 (gone but, not forgotten)
Audi TT Roadster 3.2 DSG
FFRR Westminster 4.4 TDV8 (L322)

I've just had my car serviced, asked the garage to swap the tyres around as the fronts are wearing the shoulders off. Couldn't believe the change in noise! It's like I'm driving a different car! Black MY2013 SD4 GS Auto, Wood Company Armrest, Freel2 sticker.
Gone MY2010 Freelander 2 Manual TD4.e S, Alaska White.

Top marks everyone, near side rear tyre had the nub of a puncture repair not quite trimmed flush with the tyre (as it was in the tread groove). Bit if a fettle and all is quiet  2010MY 2.2 e4 (gone but, not forgotten)
Audi TT Roadster 3.2 DSG
FFRR Westminster 4.4 TDV8 (L322)

Well since my 'diagnosis' of the tyre repair being the culprit, the noise was getting worse I swapped the wheel out with the spare and the noise is still there. Had another look underneath and checked for play in the wheel bearing - none (if doing the hands at 12 & 6 o'clock is still the way to check). Feeling increasingly concerned at the apparent play at the diff ends of the driveshafts. Take a look at the Vid, is that acceptable 'play'?
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=836F71DB1A7D37E!184291&authkey=!AL8MEm78-_T5kS0&ithint=video%2cmp4
And this one, badly focussed and some extra commentary from me and my dad, but the amount of movement going into the diff is alarming.
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=836F71DB1A7D37E!184292&authkey=!AP2BZVG_eZYddiA&ithint=video%2cmp4

Thoughts, anyone?

Note: these onedrive links will only work if you copy and paste the full into your browser, for some reason onedrive doesn't give me the option to have a shorter link! 2010MY 2.2 e4 (gone but, not forgotten)
Audi TT Roadster 3.2 DSG
FFRR Westminster 4.4 TDV8 (L322)

Hard to really see whats happening, but from what i can see:-

The in out movement is fine, thats totally normal.

The badly focused video looks like you are trying up and down play, There is some up and down play normally, but i cant really tell from the video if its excessive.

Is the noise wheel speed or prop shaft speed related (wheel speed will be slower)??

can you make it make the noise?? i.e. is it under load, coasting, letting off etc??? Could it be transmission wind up if teh haldex is working correctly? www.bellengineering.co.uk

The play I'm trying to display is up and down, there is very little 'in out'.

The noise is lets say at 30 - 35 mph 1 per second. If I load it i.e. when cornering is can be made to sound louder. On Friday after picking up my daughter and her two friends from school, the noise did appear to be slightly louder. Coasting at 30-40 mph it can be heard too, in fact at these speeds it is there be it coasting, accelerating etc.

I'll try to take a better video hopefully showing how much movement (up and down) there is. 2010MY 2.2 e4 (gone but, not forgotten)
Audi TT Roadster 3.2 DSG
FFRR Westminster 4.4 TDV8 (L322)

To get excessive up and down the bearing would have to be seriously naggered so doubt its that. The planet wheel could be worn i suppose, but have never seen that www.bellengineering.co.uk

A couple of videos on the road this time. The noise is more pronounced when turning right, either loading on the outside of the left rear, or loading on the inner right rear. You may need headphones or fairly high volume but you can hear it when I'm on roundabouts.
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=836F71DB1A7D37E!184307&authkey=!ACF2DGkmG92cJ-M&ithint=video%2cmp4
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=836F71DB1A7D37E!184306&authkey=!AMXAu_AtOuByf2A&ithint=video%2cmp4 2010MY 2.2 e4 (gone but, not forgotten)
Audi TT Roadster 3.2 DSG
FFRR Westminster 4.4 TDV8 (L322)

New video from my GoPro fitted to the anti roll bar looking towards the diff. The near (left) side where I think the noise is coming from seems pretty steady, the offside seems to have the rhythmic noise. Also displays of the up and down play in the diff end of the driveshafts hopefully a bit clearer. Notice the noise presumably coming from the Haldex, very much a buzzy noise - hope this is a 'normal' noise?

Besides my issues, good video to see how the suspension works even if its only on a road surface!

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=836F71DB1A7D37E!187644&authkey=!AKrSyTKKDrTBrmA&ithint=video%2cmp4 2010MY 2.2 e4 (gone but, not forgotten)
Audi TT Roadster 3.2 DSG
FFRR Westminster 4.4 TDV8 (L322)

If the noise is pronounced when loaded and especially when turning right, concentrate on the LEFT wheels/tires.
Exchange left side with right side (rear first) and see if the sound is moving on the other side.

I thought I had a bit of a breakthrough last week. I once again jacked the FL up and span the wheel (both sides). I noticed on the RHS there was a rubbing noise similar to a brake pad rubbing. I opened out the caliper so the pads were clear and the noise was still there. Park brake shoes, I thought.

Did a search on here for handbrake and quite a number of folks having a similar issue to mine, the remedy to replace the shoes. Looking at the pads on mine I elected to replace them too. I work directly opposite Totalparts in Skelmersdale, and popped in to collect said parts.

The shoes weren't worn that much (considering my OH driving it a few of times with the park brake on) but the linings were cracked. Inspecting and cleaning up the disk/drum there appeared to be a patch approx. 75mm x 30mm wide of corrosion eating into the contact surface, thus creating an uneven contact plane.

As I hadn't considered changing the disks, I cleaned up the disk/drum, fitted the new shoes, old disk/drum and did the same on the other side. Road tested and the irritating noise was somewhat quieter - so, it must be that patch of corrosion. New disks picked up from Totalparts the next day, it took longer to jack up the car than it did to fit the disks! But the noise is still there:(

What does seem to be consistant is that whenever I remove the RH rear wheel, the noise is different each time after refitting. Another point too, it does seem to be affected by temperature, if the ambient is high (like it has been over the past few days then the noise can be heard a slower speeds. If it is cooler it takes a minute or two before it is audible and at speeds between 27-38 mph.

Baffled 2010MY 2.2 e4 (gone but, not forgotten)
Audi TT Roadster 3.2 DSG
FFRR Westminster 4.4 TDV8 (L322)

One step forward, one step back?

After changing the rear disks and shoes and pads, I also changed the front disks and pads. Thing I noticed here was that the front hubs appear to have been replaced at sometime before my possession.

Anyway, the noise is still present, but last night on my way home from work the noise came in with a vengeance. It was at the same frequency if you like but very much metal rubbing against metal. Gingerly made it home and removed the NSR wheel, calliper and drum. The inner ridge of the drum surface was rubbing against the park brake backing plate. There doesn't appear to be any reason for the backing plate to be distorted, but the lip on the disk was rubbing at two positions on the plate (quite close to each other at 10 and 12 o'clock).

Using an emery flappy wheel attachment on my drill I smoothed the top surface of the ridge on the disk. I also checked the old disk and there is a 'polishing' of the ridge in one place suggesting perhaps this was happening before. It also gives some explanation that when the ambient temperature is higher the noise seems to be more noticeable?

Put it all back together and the noise is definitely subdued but still present. Toying with having another go at relieving the areas of contact somehow. But, also resigning myself to wheel bearing failure.

Found a new replacement hub with bearing fitted, reasonable price but the thought of using a press to get the bearing in to the knuckle and, how do you remove the old bearing for that matter? 2010MY 2.2 e4 (gone but, not forgotten)
Audi TT Roadster 3.2 DSG
FFRR Westminster 4.4 TDV8 (L322)

An Update of sorts. I have sourced a replacement (secondhand) complete rear knuckle. It was a reasonable price so my thought is to fit it and refurb my old one and refit. This way it proves it is the bearing - a lot of work I know but I'm funny that way.

I set about the dismantling and the first issue was loosening the hub nut. This ended up me splitting the nut off as it was not for turning despite long breaker bars etc. The reason I believe it was difficult is due to the threads on the driveshaft being completely chewed (not by my actions I would add) which suggests the hub nut being off previously. Furthermore, where the top edge of the hub nut is deformed into the slot on the driveshaft it looked as though it had been used before.

I then removed the caliper, disc, ABS sensor and loosened the suspension fixings. I came to loosen the pinch bolt on the back of the knuckle which nicely sheared on me!

So the knuckle is completely off and rotating the hub on this compared to the replacement is incredible. Very rumbly.

I have ordered a new driveshaft as the thread is too far gone to repair (trying a new hub nut on and it stops at the start of the damaged threads) so question: how do I pop out the driveshaft from the diff, is there a special method? It's the left hand side/near side one. Am I likely to loose any diff oil? 2010MY 2.2 e4 (gone but, not forgotten)
Audi TT Roadster 3.2 DSG
FFRR Westminster 4.4 TDV8 (L322)