I am changing the left hand rear driveshaft, does anyone have any tips on removing it from the diff please? 2010MY 2.2 e4 (gone but, not forgotten)
Audi TT Roadster 3.2 DSG
FFRR Westminster 4.4 TDV8 (L322)

No tips but why does it need changing ? FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Ha! Wrong answer Yorky Bob

I am in the process of swapping over a complete LHS rear knuckle and on removing the hub nut (with great difficulty) have discovered the thread on the driveshaft to be damaged beyond repair (i.e. the nut had to be split to get it off as the nut had been fitted onto the damaged threads). The damage is on the 5/6 threads on the end so these are likely to damage the nut threads as it is fitted. I have a thread file, but it's making little difference.

Being a bit OCD, I don't want to have to go through the same again as I plan to refurbish the knuckle I have removed and refit it. 2010MY 2.2 e4 (gone but, not forgotten)
Audi TT Roadster 3.2 DSG
FFRR Westminster 4.4 TDV8 (L322)

Was going to suggest a thread file, years since I saw and used one. Can it be re-cut with a Die ? Or buy a couple of extra nuts and ruin them first maybe.

Have fun.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/c/tap-die-sets-files-extractors/ FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Thanks, I hope I have fun!

The funny thing is the nut should be M24 x 1.5, but on checking on infopart, a x 2 thread may be fitted depending on the lead thread of the shaft. So not sure really. I have x 1.5 nuts coming so a new shaft should be the same you would think. 2010MY 2.2 e4 (gone but, not forgotten)
Audi TT Roadster 3.2 DSG
FFRR Westminster 4.4 TDV8 (L322)

Last edited by philclemo on 29th Jun 2016 3:37 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Here's the driveshaft threaded end.

Not too pretty is it?

Click image to enlarge

WHAT A MESS!!

Not sure if this would work for anyone

Get a couple of longish jubilee clips, split and join both together to make a circle around the shaft joint at the diff end. Then tap equally away at both clip screw areas. You should then knock off and release out without hitting shaft. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

I am liking your thinking there YB! 2010MY 2.2 e4 (gone but, not forgotten)
Audi TT Roadster 3.2 DSG
FFRR Westminster 4.4 TDV8 (L322)

I welded a nut that fired my slide hammer shaft to a "G" clamp. I tightened the "G" clamp onto the driveshaft inner joint and one quick blow with the slide hammer got it out first time. John
07 HSE Narvick Black
Land Rover Series One
Triumph Rocket 111 (sadly gone!)

Thanks John. I saw your post about this in Tips & Tricks, great idea.

When you referred to the nearside, did you mean the 'French' nearside i.e RHS from the back of the vehicle?

I only ask as you mention the driveshaft is recessed more on that side making prying almost impossible. If it isn't as recessed on the LHS I may get away with prying? 2010MY 2.2 e4 (gone but, not forgotten)
Audi TT Roadster 3.2 DSG
FFRR Westminster 4.4 TDV8 (L322)

If you drop the diff there is a hole in the casing cup, you can put a long screwdriver over or wedge down there and pop it out www.bellengineering.co.uk

Thanks all for your responses. Managed to get the shaft off. All back together now. 2010MY 2.2 e4 (gone but, not forgotten)
Audi TT Roadster 3.2 DSG
FFRR Westminster 4.4 TDV8 (L322)