Hopefully my warranty company will be coughing up, After a couple of calls to them not so sure though.

While it's off check the prop-shaft bearings.
My transfer box gears were fine, the input spline were stripped, but when the transfer box failed the transmission whine also stopped - prop-shaft stops turning if transfer box fails completely.
Replace the failed box and the whine is back. Points to prop-shaft bearings or the input to the Haldex. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

hirsty098 wrote:

You supplying one is the best option. Does my old one go back with courier on delivery of new unit

I send another courier to pickup so you have time to arrange the fitting and get it packed up agaun. www.bellengineering.co.uk

Is courier delivery etc all in £486.00 price? I'll give you a call tomorrow anyway, Soon as I've spoken to indie.

Courier is £30 all in for both directions www.bellengineering.co.uk

Thanks, Will ring Monday

Morning guys, just looking for answers to questions in my head. I'm driving FL2 (2011) TD4, 110w, 130 000 km. Because FL2 isn't so common car in Slovakia and I can't find so much informations about it, I decided to ask you for your help. I'm looking for solutions to resolve my problem here. I have noticed periodic noise when driving forward - which I thought were the tyres. (changed tyres from winter to summer and noise is still there). As well as crazy sound when moving off from a standstill, particularly in reverse. Mechanic said, it's gonna be rear differential. Because there is no warranty anymore, before I'll pay for it, want to ask:

Do I need to replace Haldex as well? Or it is just rear differential? (there is any way to eliminate it?)

Thanks a lot. Every little help is more than appreciated.

Nice day to all of you.

Katarina.

Hi
Only just registered today on this forum, But have already read some interesting posts on the diff issue.
6 Months ago I picked up my first FL2 from main dealer, lovely car , a 2010 td4 xs auto, with 36000 on clock.

recently noticed that howling / whining from rear, took it back to dealer yesterday , who say the diff needs replacing.
Now waiting to hear from landrover warranty to see if they'll pay for work. Cant see how they can not , its clearly a defective, not fit for the purpose part.
Anyway my other concern is , will they just replace it like for like , or will they fit the newer updated version.

Anyone have any info to reassure me please

Anyone got, seen or have a link to a "DIY Gen 4 Haldex service" guide for fluid and filter change Jules

He's what I do:-

Drop exhaust off rear hangers and lower 20cm support with some wire/string
Remove 6 bolts from prop shaft
Remove 6 bolts holding prop support bearing bracket
Drop rear prop
Unplug haldex - use a small flat ended screw driver to unclip
Remove 4 10mm bolts holding haldex to diff
Pull haldex out
Remove motor by taking out the 2 4mm Allen cap head bolts, then use large flat ended screw driver to leaver it out - it can be pretty tight.
Remove 2 small torx head screws holding gauze/filter on end if motor.
Blow all the gunk out with an airline, or carefully clean with tooth brush
Remove filter cap 2 x 4mm Allen cap head bolt
Remove filter - I drill a hole in the filter and screw a screw into it to leaver it
Replace filter
Reassemble in reverse www.bellengineering.co.uk



Last edited by austen_fl2 on 18th Apr 2016 6:44 am. Edited 1 time in total

Oh and don't forget to clean all the gunk out the Haldex while is apart lol www.bellengineering.co.uk

I had the low level dif repair done by Land Rover last year on my 58 FL2 TD4. Car covered 90k then at 7 years old, its first ever dif repair. Haldex oil also was changed too whilst they were on. Just by making a quick phone call to Land Rover customer services, I managed to get a 33% contribution from them. Not bad considering my landy didn't have a full Land Rover service history.
The repair also came with a 2 years Land Rover parts & labour warranty on the repair. So if it were to fail again within 2 years it would be covered under warranty for free. It cost me a total of around £420 all in, taking off the 33% contribution. Should have been around £620. Landy has now gone.

Thanks Bell Engineering for the idiots guide to removing the Haldex etc as I am one Why ? attempting to service my Haldex filter and oil probably next week if its warm and dry.

One question I was going to ask or research further was the refill procedure for the FL2 Haldex 4, could you add it to this string ? I would be most grateful.

Read things so far like fill to brim, turn on ignition, smoke a cigarette, now take out "x" amount of oil, all very technical for fitting a small drop of oil.  FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

austen_fl2 wrote:

Oh and don't forget to clean all the gunk out the Haldex while is apart lol

Yorky Bob wrote:

Thanks Bell Engineering for the idiots guide to removing the Haldex etc as I am one Why ? attempting to service my Haldex filter and oil probably next week if its warm and dry.

One question I was going to ask or research further was the refill procedure for the FL2 Haldex 4, could you add it to this string ? I would be most grateful.

Read things so far like fill to brim, turn on ignition, smoke a cigarette, now take out "x" amount of oil, all very technical for fitting a small drop of oil.

Fill until fluid trickles out filler.
Fit fill plug
Start the engine and let it tickover for 5mins - I prefer to do this rather than just turn ignition on as it guarantees pump is activated.
Turn off engine
Refill haldex until fluid trickles out - normally takes between 100-200mm
Remove 70ml
Replace plug www.bellengineering.co.uk