On the way home last night my Freelander coughed and I lifted off the power and that was it. The engine cut finished the trip on the end of a rope. Now I have got the fuel gauge issue but I put 30 Litters in it today and still can't get any life in to it. It turns over strongly but it makes no attempted to fire. Can't see any plugs off at a bit of a loss. It's a 57 plate GS with 200,000 miles on has had a new engine fitted but that was before I got it. Ant suggestions would be grateful

Ian

best advice i can give is get the fault codes read and start from there 2014 SE Loire Blue SD4 Auto (MY15)
Gone - 2011 GS Baltic Blue, Retrofit Electric Leather, Side Steps, 19"SC's, Roof Rails, TT Sat Nav Mod, Retrofit Premium Audio, Retro fit 2013 Xenons with DRL & Sig Strip (Clutch at 47k)
Gone - 2007 GS Narvik Black, Privacy Glass, 19" SC's, Side Steps,Roof Rails, Roof Spoiler, Lamp Guards, Retrofit Electric Leather (Clutch at 115k)
Gone - 2007 SE Santorini Black (Clutch at 120k)
BT IID (best money ever spent on a car)

my fuel gauge showed 1/4 of a tank, but I ran out - should have been suspicious when I managed 500 miles on a tank.

Point is, if you do run out, just putting fuel in has no effect, the system will NOT prime, without help from an outside source, you need to pull the fuel through with a manual pump.

In my case M56 at night AA put in 10litres and still couldn't prime the system.
Also if she thinks there is no fuel, she won't start, just to stop you from running dry with no way of bleeding the system. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Sounds like you have fuel starvation there are two known causes for this type of issue.
The first issue the Freelander has a banana shaped fuel tank there is a built in pump that automatically pumps the fuel across to the other side when the tank is half empty which is part of the sender unit. It could be either the pump or the secondary sender on the tank as there is two senders one is a remote unit that tells the main unit to activate the pump when the fuel gets low in the other side.
The secound known issue is the main fuel pump which is a duel tandem pump located on the right hand side of the engine block driven by the cam shaft. The drive for the fuel pump on the actual camshaft is known to snap. Later models were fitted with modified cam shafts to prevent this.

I have known some people to fit a electronic fuel pump as a temporary measure in order for them to continue to use there vehicle.

I was under the impression that the FL2 will not run out of fuel, it goes into limp mode for quite a few miles and eventually stops so as to avoid the priming problem. Did this not happen? 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

It would not go into limp home mode if the cam shaft snapped driving the high pressure fuel pump this would cause the engine to suddenly stop once the fuel in the pump had run dry.
The only worry is if the cam shaft has snapped you need to remove the sump to locate the piece of metal that would find its way to the sump. To replace the camshaft cost around £1000.
I would also check the fuel filter to see if there is any fuel present in side as a blocked fuel filter will also cause fuel starvation.

This might be of help to you:
http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic10702.html

Had the same issue just died wouldn't start, replaced the fuel filter primed it ....all good since 😊 2007 hse auto

Fuel filter has to be the way forward thanks for the input. Is there a link about priming ?

The exact same thing happend to me in January not in a freelander and ended up being a snapped cam belt. The Engine turned over perfectly but would not fire up. 2008 SE

The info about fuel priming is on here:
http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic2900.html

So I can now confirm that there is no fuel being pumped from the tank. The pump has failed or it has the wiring issue that this age of Freelander is noted for. But why don’t I get a error code, I know I only have a basic code reader but I would have thought that the Landover would have at least try to give me a clue what is wrong or confirm my suspicions. Should it give me a message to tell me of the failure

A basic code reader will only show engine fault codes and no others. Only heard of wiring issue with fuel gauge and not pump. Did you check fuse FS22 in passenger footwell? 2014 SE Loire Blue SD4 Auto (MY15)
Gone - 2011 GS Baltic Blue, Retrofit Electric Leather, Side Steps, 19"SC's, Roof Rails, TT Sat Nav Mod, Retrofit Premium Audio, Retro fit 2013 Xenons with DRL & Sig Strip (Clutch at 47k)
Gone - 2007 GS Narvik Black, Privacy Glass, 19" SC's, Side Steps,Roof Rails, Roof Spoiler, Lamp Guards, Retrofit Electric Leather (Clutch at 115k)
Gone - 2007 SE Santorini Black (Clutch at 120k)
BT IID (best money ever spent on a car)

No I have not should have thought of that one myself thanks

No shame no the fuse time to take the tank out go the weather is good this weekend

The fuel will NEVER be pumped from the tank.

The pump in the tank moves fuel from one side to the other and not up to the engine - the tank is a saddle design.

The pump on the end of the camshaft PULLS the fuel through the fuel filter from the tank, if there is any air in the system the fuel pump cannot suck hard enough to pull the fuel. Hence if you run out you must manually prime the system before it can run.
This means that changing the fuel filter can be tricky, if you don't spill fuel from the lines and you prefill the filter it is possible to restart without manual priming, but I would personally not try this without having manual priming gear to hand. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner