Hi all, Back to the problem of the fuel gauge not showing correct reading and fuel sensor/pump problems
My 07 SE is having the problem now. Filled right up the other day. Done approx 120 miles then fuel gauge drops to zero and get warning of low fuel. I know thee are several posts on here about the problem but does anyone have a definitave answer to the problem.
Land rover mechanic friend says tank out renew wiring on sensors inside the tank. If that doesn't work replace both sensors and pump, bloody expensive i think!!!
Anyoe got any ideas on an easier/cheaper fix please

As above but with second hand parts.. do the work yourself..

comes with risk of course MY2011 Freelander 2 GS Santorini Black
MY2004 Freelander 1 Sport Java Black
MY1986 Defender 90 Stornoway Grey - Fully Rebuilt this Year

PIA, but I have had this happen twice in the last 6 months. Once I unhooked the battery, the other it fixed itself

I had the problem, indy rewired the senders. 20 quid for the parts, 350 quid for the labour to take fuel tank out. Indy told me that you can test the senders, he said in his experience very few senders fail. I think the cheapest fix is just to re-wire them. You could buy second hand senders but you might still have the issue of the wiring. Diesel apparently corrodes the electrical joints in the wiring. Black MY2013 SD4 GS Auto, Wood Company Armrest, Freel2 sticker.
Gone MY2010 Freelander 2 Manual TD4.e S, Alaska White.

Is it absolutely necessary to drop the tank to be able to re wire the senders??

Yes. One sender is under the rear seats and easy to get to, the other sender is out of reach, hence why you need to drop the tank. If you are dropping the tank it needs to be as empty as possible as they are quite heavy when full of fuel. Black MY2013 SD4 GS Auto, Wood Company Armrest, Freel2 sticker.
Gone MY2010 Freelander 2 Manual TD4.e S, Alaska White.

Thanks for all the info guys. Can anyone tell me the cost of each of the sender units and cost of pump

Has anyone tried to enlarge the bung hole under the OS rear seat to be able to get the senders out???
Just trying to find a cheaper alternative to dropping the tank out

I had a problem with my senders and checked with a meter at the tank wiring input. One sender kept going open circuit and shortly after the other one started to play up. So took it to my Indi - Parts (both senders and pump) about £350, labour about the same. my "man" said it is a difficult job as the senders have to be put into the tank "blind" so I think cutting a hole in the floor is a none starter. Since, if the senders say the tank is empty, the engine will stop and refuse to start until the tank senders indicate fuel I decided to change the whole unit.

I've had the same problem. Over the past two months I have taken the car back for repairs 6 times. Had the two fuel senders replaced (separately) wiring 'repaired' and the last time had the instrument cluster removed and repaired. When I picked it up the mechanic told me all fixed. So, when and filled up and the gauge only went to half full. A few later I returned the car to the mechanic only to be informed that they didn't know what to do next. Luckily, my extended warranty is covering all this but seriously, how hard can this be to fix? Seems a lot of people are experiencing it.

Took it home and disconnected the battery for 15 minutes. Tested and the gauge returned to the full mark. Now all I need to do is uses all the fuel and see if it worked.

I've disconnected the battery once to reset and more recently (when I was waiting for the wife to finish her shopping) with the car idling it sorted itself out. I hate these issues

g

I used to have this problem occasionally when I had my FL2. It always sorted itself out. Once, it showed no fuel on the gauge and zero miles left in tank for a couple of hours but I never experienced it cutting out or refusing to start as some posts suggest. Has anyone actually experienced the car cutting out or refusing to start when the gauge is playing up? Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Why have fuel gauges always been such a problem? We once had three identical Ford Escorts in the family and occasionally one would run out of fuel because when it read 1/4 full when it was nearly empty and the others would be overflowing and reading just over half? My old Dad used to say that he would forgo any of the modern features for an accurate fuel gauge. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Quicksilva wrote:

I've had the same problem. Over the past two months I have taken the car back for repairs 6 times. Had the two fuel senders replaced (separately) wiring 'repaired' and the last time had the instrument cluster removed and repaired. When I picked it up the mechanic told me all fixed. So, when and filled up and the gauge only went to half full. A few later I returned the car to the mechanic only to be informed that they didn't know what to do next. Luckily, my extended warranty is covering all this but seriously, how hard can this be to fix? Seems a lot of people are experiencing it.

Took it home and disconnected the battery for 15 minutes. Tested and the gauge returned to the full mark. Now all I need to do is uses all the fuel and see if it worked.

On my one, I did once briefly get a message about the steering lock but that also cured itself. I can't understand why, if nothing has been changed or disconnected, why software upgrades are necessary - surely if they are, the car wouldn't get to seven year's old and start playing up, would it? Surely it would do it from the day it rolled off the production line? Anyway, I sold it 3 months ago so that was a definitive fix for me! Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.