Bah! No space behind the rear pillar covers to take the oval light fitting, at least not on the face that fires across the load space.

Having now actually stood at the back of the car the roof lining is actually quite a long way forward of the rear bumper, even reaching to the back seat you don't shadow what you are doing. So I'm going to steal fredastairs idea and wire to the rear passenger light for the 12 V, dimming 12 V and earth connections. All 1/4" lucar easy to make up spliters to insert into the wiring. Probably also fit small panel LED lights into the otherwise unlit ends or one of the shaped LED panels that fits behind the entire diffuser. At least the whole diffuser panel will have the same colour "white" LEDs. Cheers
Dave.

Current :14 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Tech
Previous: Y Disco II TD5 ES, 04 Disco II Landmark.

Break in the weather a few days ago allowed me to fit the light unit into the headlining. A tip for anyone else thinking of doing this addition, the headlining gets thicker towards the curve upwards. This extra thickness stops the front edge bezel clips latching until you scrape out one of the foam layers and stick the edges together. You might be able to avoid this by making the back edge of the bezel somewhere about 3 1/2" forward from the doorseal/headlining transition. Mine is at 4".

Certainly works well and is a great improvement over the silly little factory fitted light. I'd like to augment the light though with extra bulbs in the "wings" that come one when the tail gate is open. There is a "tail gate ajar" wire to the CEM, the door locking mechanism grounds this wire when the tail gate is ajar. Being connected to the CEM I'm a bit wary of switching even couple of LED bulbs directly. But a 10 k ohm resistor and PNP transistor acting as a switch shouldn't stress the CEM too much. All I need to do is find that wire. Anyone know where the connector pair C44N and C44M is located? Cheers
Dave.

Current :14 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Tech
Previous: Y Disco II TD5 ES, 04 Disco II Landmark.

le bouch wrote:

The wiring is the same. i.e. one twin connector, one single. This is the light you need - don't know the Ford MY but they used them in the Ghia Fiesta, Focus and Mondeo...

I'm not sure I'm following this thread correctly - why are folks talking about Ford parts to upgrade to the maplight unit

The genuine LR part is about £15 incl vat & delivery from Duckworths.

Sorry if I'm stating the obvious......

Wander back to the first message on page one. You obtain a map light unit to put in the front, the liberated ordinary unit is then redeployed to greatly improve the load space lighting but to do that you also need the bezel that attaches to the headlining and into which the light unit fits. Yes the map light unit is about £15 but that doesn't come with a bezel, the bezel is another £15 (plus delivery?). I got a previously loved map light unit and bezel for £19 delivered from an eBay seller, bit grubby but nothing some warm soapy water couldn't cope with. You look for "Ford" parts as they are fairly common, "Land Rover" ones aren't.

Be aware that there are two colours of bezel, grey and beige. To match the FL2 headlining you ought to have the beige. I've the grey (the picture looked beige and I didn't ask, meh) but it's a pale grey and doesn't look wrong and used for the load space you can barely see it anyway. Cheers
Dave.

Current :14 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Tech
Previous: Y Disco II TD5 ES, 04 Disco II Landmark.

Oh, ok that makes sense now.

Oh, ok that makes sense now.

Hi. I am going to do the load space mod as described by fredastaire. I was keen to fit the light further forward and in the higher part of the lining level with the passenger area light. I hoped that I could cut the hole and work the cable through without removing or dropping the lining. This would remove the need to drop cables down to the boot light.
My question is whether anyone has done this or has knowledge of whether there is room to do this as I don't know what is above the headlining and I don't want to take it down as it may never be the same again.
Any help of advice would be most welcome. Thanks in advance......

I have fitted the unit as described by Fredastaire but be careful of the wiring of the wiring to the roof mounted GPS unit. I took the "conventional" route of running the wiring down behind the door pillar wiring to the existing load space light and removed trim to connect. Found this very simple and easy to remove and replace.
I never even thought of using the rear passenger light so can only suggest that you cut the lining for you unit and then drop the passenger light and feed a NON metallic fish wire/rod (as used by electrical engineers) and see if you can reach the new opening.
If not you can then go the "conventional" route.

Please let us know how you get on.Bill Life Honorary Member of Wallasey Motor Club.
Licenced MSA Radio Operator for 35+ years.
Rallying is the only sport.

Hi Bill
Thanks for reply. I had a go at leading the cables yesterday as it wasn't raining for a change! I have erred on the side of caution because I don't want a big bill for damaged headlining or, worse still, a headlining that is creased and looks pants! I dropped the lining from the rear and just could see enough up and round the bend to be sure that I could fit the light where I wanted it in the same level as the rear passenger light. I therefore wussed out and led the cable down the rear pillar and soldered into the wiring on the back of the boot light.
I just need to await delivery of the new front light and the bezel from Duckworths and I can get on with the easy bits!! Its always nerve wracking cutting holes in big expensive parts isn't it.
Getting the rear pillar trim back on was an absolute nightmare. It wouldn't locate at all. Broke three clips so will have to go to dealer for replacements.
Hope to complete this job and fit the towbar and electrics this sunday. That looks more complicated than it is I think - I hope!
Will let you know results!

PICS please?

Towbar and wiring are a doddle just take your time and watch your knuckles - I used a trolley jack to offer it up whilst I located the first bolt on either side No Longer the owner of a 2013MY Fuji White GS

"Fiat Lux" a philosophy not a car

Hi Westville
Being a newbie to Forum contributions I didn't have my camera out while doing the job. I have only done the wiring as yet as the lamp has only just arrived today and the bezel is en route. However, the photos posted by fredastaire are very detailed and far better than I could hope to take. I will be aiming to replicate his installation precisely. His photos are at the top of this thread.
Will let you know how the towbar goes....
TTFN

Hi Guys. Further to this fantastic thread started by fredastaire and everybody' s helpful answers to my questions, I have today successfully fitted the additional internal roof light over the boot space - BUT in the slightly further forward location in line with the height of the main roof lights in the passenger areas of the car.
This light looks as though it should always have been there and the added advantage is that it is not in the line of fire if any large loads are in the boot.
If anyone else is looking to put the light there, I will post a photo in the morning when it's light. There is nothing above the headlining in this area other than the tube carting the water to the rear screen washer which is very firmly glued to the headlining and you need to be very careful cutting the lining to ensure that the pipe isn't damaged. It is a simple job to work the pope off the lining to allow the light fitting to attach into the headlining.
One other note of interest is that the headlining is double thickness in that area. I was able to fit the bezel (light frame) by a squeezing the bezel clips quite hard but you may wish to scrape some of the thickness away if you prefer. Working a cable from the rear passenger light to the new one was a piece of cake. No need to remove the rear pillar trim or boot trim to link a cable to the boot light. ( in fact I had already done this before I decided to cut the hole in the forward position, but that was wasted work) I had great difficulty getting the rear pillar trim back on.
In all, this amendment to fredastaire' s mod means the rear boot space light can be fitted without removing any trim at all.
The whole mod cost me only £9.50 as I was lucky in getting a map light from eBay which had the bezel with it! Will need to return the one I bought from Dan at Duckworths if he will have it back!
Thanks again for all your help!

Bit late now... but I'd have thought going forward enough to get onto a flat bit of roof lining would put the light almost over the back of the rear seat, thus the light not getting to the load space near the hatch. Wiring from the boot light, don't you only get the controlled courtesy light feed there, no permanent 12 V. So you can't have the light on once the courtesy light has timed out after a couple of minutes? Having said that the "permanent" 12V is the "battery saver" 12V so that goes off as well but not for a good 10 or 15 mins. Cheers
Dave.

Current :14 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Tech
Previous: Y Disco II TD5 ES, 04 Disco II Landmark.

Hi Dave, all good points but I can assure you the light location is all good for the boot. Wiring is off the passenger light so can be switched on whenever! As I said in my post, it's all achievable without removing trim.... Happy days - so far!

I have bought a map light version of the interior light from Ebay and swapped it out no problems at all, I've noticed that the map lights are not particularly directional and having the passenger one on does seem to light pretty much the whole car. Should there be a reflector in the light unit for the map lights? I used to have a Ford Focus and I don't remember there being so much light spill from the map lights. Retrofitting reflectors might even improve the light output from the festoon as well. Neil Hampson
4x4 Newbie