Hi all I have a 2010 freelander 2 manual and it will not start.
First all the fault messages coming up transmission fault, engine fault, HFCs fault, terrain response fault, and the temp gauge is on full although the engine is cold. The odd meter has reset to 0.0 and the steering lock doesn't lock. I had it started once this morning and the engine was ticking over very high with the Rev counter not working also when I put my foot on the brake the engine went back down to normal tick over soon as I released engine speed increased again and the accelerator didn't do anything when pressed. This has all happened overnight no interminate faults at all. Tested the battery that is fine and checked all earth leads which are fine any advice will be much appreciated thanks

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic8712.html...arth+strap

One thing to look at, look at the earth leads carefully, they may look OK

Have you disturbed anything with the Garmin unit you fitted?

classic earth strap symptoms - unless you have shorted anything out

If I was closer I would have look for you

Might be worth investing in a cheap Blue tooth diagnostic device ( £8 on ebay) sends data to your phone so you can read fault codes etc 

Hi thanks no the garmin device is still plugged into the plug socket I've just hidden the wires and just had a mechanic come and his equipment wouldn't read it and the hazard lights came on he has checked it over only thing he can think is ecu

Happened overnight? youve not had a mouse had a go at the wiring have you??

When I had my parrot kit fitted by Hellfrauds, he declared it fitted, I turned the ignition on and the hazards starting flashing, warning lights on dash (but not as many as yours, and only had the TR not available warning)

Turned out to be a shorted fuse in the passenger footwell fuse box (where he had used a piggy back fuse for the parrot kit)

Fuse replaced and all sorted.

Check the connectors in the passenger footwell. Passengers can accidently disturb them with their feet. Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

If it's as simple as an earth issue can an jump lead be used as a test? I.e jump lead onto negative battery terminal then other end onto a suitable place on the engine? Black MY2013 SD4 GS Auto, Wood Company Armrest, Freel2 sticker.
Gone MY2010 Freelander 2 Manual TD4.e S, Alaska White.

Yes I have tried that with a jump lead it doesn't make any difference once connected to the gear box then again onto the chassis

Have you tried fully disconnecting the battery, leaving it overnight and then reconnecting? i.e. Effectively "rebooting" the car?

Not the same car or problem I appreciate, but I had a C-Max that went bonkers after I'd taken it to the Alps in winter and it got down to -30 degrees. Warning lights, dials all over the place, and wouldn't start. Disconnected the battery, touched the two battery leads together, and left it overnight and then it was fine.....

Costs nothing - worth a shot?

I have tried disconnecting it for an hour an hour with the two leads touching maybe worth leaving it overnight thanks

Hi, I've replied on the other thread, our car had the same symptoms , then got worse after it was " checked " turned out , after getting to trusted Indy, to be a blown fuse .

So if I had the same problem again, with hindsight and a significant bill to prove it

1 ) photograph all the fuse positions before you do anything for future reference. then disconnect the battery ( you don't want to " spike " anything if you are pulling critical fuses . Check the fuses one by one using a meter , not visual , be sure that the fuses are re-inserted properly if they are removed to test.

2) if you find a blown fuse, replace it , then connect the battery again, if it starts great, if it doesn't check the fuse you replaced if it has blown again the problem should be on that fused circuit, if it hasn't, disconnect the battery leads and continue checking every fuse in this manner.

3) I can't tell you the specific position of the fuse blown on our car but I think it was engine management, but was the problem caused by the burned out motor , don't know, it could have been, did something blow. The instant the key went in can't say ,

The excellent advice from Alex P on checking the Central Junction Box Connections can be carried out at the same time.

At the best this might cure it, at the worse it will rule it out.

Ps I have an Italian bike with canbus electrics so know what a nightmare they can be, I had a tiny earth fault that turned on the LH indicator at 8000 rpm, just what you don't need on a bike ! 2009 GS Auto Zermatt Silver - Sold June 21 after 10 years of ownership

2016 Subaru Outback SE 2.0 diesel SE Premium Lineartronic Sold 2024 after 8 years and 80k miles . Best Car I ever owned !

2023 Toyota Hilux invincible X 2.8 Auto .

Hi Thanks for your reply did u check the fuses in all three compartments engine bay, behind glovebox and in the boot or is there another place?

Where is the central junction box?

I've got it booked in next sat at a Land Rover specialist but would like to check everything myself first.
Thanks

Its in the passenger footwell behind carpet and glovebox. Glovebox clips out to allow better access, there is a retaining clip top left then it pulls out of hinge points for removal. 2014 SE Loire Blue SD4 Auto (MY15)
Gone - 2011 GS Baltic Blue, Retrofit Electric Leather, Side Steps, 19"SC's, Roof Rails, TT Sat Nav Mod, Retrofit Premium Audio, Retro fit 2013 Xenons with DRL & Sig Strip (Clutch at 47k)
Gone - 2007 GS Narvik Black, Privacy Glass, 19" SC's, Side Steps,Roof Rails, Roof Spoiler, Lamp Guards, Retrofit Electric Leather (Clutch at 115k)
Gone - 2007 SE Santorini Black (Clutch at 120k)
BT IID (best money ever spent on a car)

Thanks I've checked all connections and all fuses even checked all connections to Ecu near front wipers everything sees ok. I guess I will have to accept defeat. I can't find anyone with the exact same problem thanks for your comments guys