I have been following the Haynes Manual for the Servicing of the 2010 2.2 FL2. Instead of just slackening off the drain screw on top of the fuel filter, I removed it causing diesel to flow onto the ground. I re fitted the drain screw and started the engine. It ran for 10 secs then stalled. I assumed that I inadvertedly introduced air into the fuel supply, so I cranked the engine many times - no good. I then introduced fresh fuel into the drain plug hole - still no good. I removed all 4 pipes into the filter and cranked the engine - no fuel came out of any pipe.
Can anyone please help.

You emptied the fuel system...
Don't crank anymore the engine until you fill the filter and lines with fuel. You can damage the high pressure fuel pump!!!!
I'm surprised that you didn't read that in the manual. You shouldn't be cranking the engine more than 30 seconds on this situation with empty fuel lines.
So...
0. Get some diesel fuel in a fuel canister.
1. Begin with all fuel lines disconnected.
2. Pump fuel from the canister and fill the fuel filter through port 1 until fuel gets out on port 2. See first picture below for ports number. Use a one way manual rubber pump like in the second picture.
3. Reconnect the pipe on port 2 and pump again fuel until it gets out through the pipe that should be connected to port 4.
4. Reconnect the pipe on port 4.
5. Pump again until it gets out on port 3.
6. Reconnect pipe on port 3.
7. Remove pump from port 1 and reconnect pipe on port 1.
8. Now try to crank the engine.




Last edited by alex_pescaru on 17th May 2015 8:16 am. Edited 1 time in total

You're a gem to have around Alex the info and knowledge you have is astounding.

Thanks very much for your speedy reply.
Under Fuel Sedimentor Draining, the manual said switch on the ignition to allow the pump to refill the filter. I hadn't got to the priming and bleeding section.
I've been servicing petrol Peugeot's and Renault's for years and this is the first service I am attempting on my wife's FL2. I guess the diesel filters are more sophisticated and I need to start learning how diesel's work.
I will go and buy the one way pump you suggested and perform your precise procedure.
Thanks again.

Quote:

the manual said switch on the ignition to allow the pump to refill the filter

The manual's playing tricks on you...
There is no electric fuel pump to fill your fuel filter on diesel models.
BTW... which manual?

I service my Vehicles regularly and will probably be changing my filter a couple of times a year,some would say that's OTT but i do do a high milage, The freelander seems to be one of the worst for bleeding luckily i have a reasonable tool kit, However i would hate to inadvertently run out of fuel and have to bleed at the roadside. Has anyone fitted a fixed bleed system to the F2 ?, i have seen pictures of the same engine fitted to different models /makes with the manual pumps (rubber bulb) built in to the system.

I've always changed the fuel filter myself. No more than a few minutes.
Take the old fuel filter out, install the new one in place.
Then drain the old filter into a clean bottle to see if it has water inside. BTW, never has...
Then pour the diesel fuel from the bottle into the new fuel filter and then add some more until it gets out.
Then reconnect all the hoses and way you go.

All hoses have 10mm connectors and pipes. So easy to manufacture and handle any additional tools you may need to build. As a tip, you can cut any of the return pipes from the old filter (the ones on the left and right of the "arrow"), add a piece of 8x10mm transparent hose from your gardening department store and here you have a proper device/tool to insert into the intake port of the new filter and fill it with fuel.

Last edited by alex_pescaru on 17th May 2015 1:23 pm. Edited 1 time in total

The Haynes Land Rover Freelander manual is the one I am using.
I have been trying all morning, but cannot find a car parts shop open, that stocks a hand pump. Halfords don't stock this.
I will try Machine Mart and Cromwell tools in the week.

Then try to fully fill your filter with fuel - no need for a pump for this - and then reconnect the hoses and try again.

But if you have a source of pressurized air, then you can use it as a "propulsion agent" for the fuel, instead of the rubber hand pump:
1. Disconnect all the pipes.
2. Slowly insert pressurized air through the pipe that should be connected to port 3 in order for the air to go to fuel tank and pressurize it. Wait for the fuel to appear at the pipe that should go to port 1.
3. Reconnect port 1 and continue with the air until fuel gets out on port 2.
4. Reconnect port 2 and wait for the fuel to appear on pipe from port 4.
5. Reconnect port 4 and port 3 and then crank the engine.

When replacing the Diesel filter I submerged the new filter in a can of fuel until all air bubbled out.
Removed old filter unit and fitted new (full) filter.
Engine started first few seconds (do not bleed anything)
I think the Haynes manual tells you need to go source a pump to pull the fuel through?

Joe Fix it until it's broke !

Ive watched them in the Land Rover dealers garage doing the fuel filter, they use one of those pump things, but the mechanic said the Freelander 2 can sometimes be a job to get going again afterwards even using all the gear they have.
It took the guy around 8 start ups and a bit of messing around before the engine would run again without stalling after a few seconds, so its obviously a bit of a fiddly job.

Joe wrote:

I think the Haynes manual tells you need to go source a pump to pull the fuel through?

Joe

Thanks for your invaluable help, Alex.
I bought a hand pump from Machine Mart and followed your instructions. As I pumped fuel through port 1, it filled up the filter and escaped down the overflow, onto my drip tray. Eventually fuel shot out of port 2, as you said it would. I replaced the pipe. However, as much as I tried (and got through loads of diesel), it would not flow out of the remaining ports. I connected all pipes and tried to start the engine - no good. I then repeated the above, but also pumped fuel into the actual port 1 pipe, quickly connected it to the port and pressed the accelerator all the way down, once. The engine then fired up at the 2nd crank, with no hick ups. Brilliant.