Tornado, When I programmed my electrics there are 2 options trailer module 13 position socket 12n 12s, and the latest 13 pin.
Did the dealer test your set up when codeing was completed?

My car is a 2008 with 12n and 12s so the option was this for me.
 Fix it until it's broke !

Well, that's a problem! I think I would take it back to the dealer again and I'll tell you why. I had my tow bar fitted by Yeovil Land Rover, a main dealer. When I got it home I checked it out with a multimeter and got much the same as you have now (can't remember exactly) although this was on a 13 pin socket. Took it back to the dealer (50 miles, not impressed) and they re-did the software and this time all was well. I can only assume they re-did the software as that is what they said - I don't actually know what they did! Other than that I can't help, sorry.

OK,

I just took a look. The whole 7 pin connector on the car has the wires epoxy sealed into the back and has no front access. However, I can see the wires going in, and from the position on the back, appear to be 100% correct in their placement.

So, I took a multimeter and tested where the power was going, and it going to the wrong pins at the wrong time. In fact, it matches perfectly 100%, as both trailers confirmed.

I took another look at each 'plug n play' plug to make sure it was secure and the correct way around - all perfect. Earth is strong and and making good contact.

I really don't want to bastardise the wiring harness, but that looks to be the only way I can solve this, short of returning it to LR or seeing if there are different setting the LR main dealer can change in the software?

Very strange the CanBus data is sending out power to the wrong pins?!?!?!?

main dealers, tow bars and getting fcked around is a a common problem.

When I purchased my previous FL2, the dealer spent 6+ hours installing the towbar
then forgot to enable it
then forgot to add some relays
then blew a fuse - so radio, and other stuff didnt work

bl00dy useless

MY13 models much easier, plug n go. 

Tornado, Did the dealer test your set up after configuration? Fix it until it's broke !

Clearly not - FFS.

For the price they charged (£100) I don't expect to have to take my trailer with me or ask 'does it work?'!!

Now faced with a 2 1/2 hr round trip to get it sorted ( maybe I should charge them the same hourly rate).

It really me off that they charge such stupidly high rates and deliver sub-standard service. Yes you can go anywhere for service, but a book full of non main dealer stamps certainly de-values the car.

I had 48month small oil service yesterday, there was NOTHING extra done or needed, except trailer programming. Cost?

£700 WTF. Hey ho, it's only money they said, yes MINE!!!

Rant over

Will update when they've tried again.

So, you have 2 options.
1. Return to dealer (you do not need to take trailer they will mock set up...although I would take mine to be 100% sure)
and ask to re-code properly as mentioned sometimes it needs to be activated a few times.
Ensure they have coded to correct module (see set up in previous post) you have already paid for this. Perhaps you may rant at them and ask for free stuff in compensation for your wasted time and travel.

2. Cut your cables up and connect your plugs.

Good Luck
Joe Fix it until it's broke !

So, to close the loop and update forum knowledge bank.

I took the car back to main dealer who 'didn't know there was more than one software option', but showed screen dump of enabling screen (big thanks for that), then they finally got it.

1/2hr later, after selecting 12n 12s firmware change, now working perfectly.

They said that's the first time they had seen the 12N 12S kit, they usually fit 13 pin kit.

Tested now on both my trailers, 100% working.

No compensation or goodwill though, despite long drive. Apparently 'sh*t happens'!

Thanks for your help guys.

Curious! I did not know there were 2 settings - "12N/12S" & "13 pin". When I bought my 10MY HSE last year it was already fitted with a LR 12n/12S loom and twin sockets. I needed to change it to 13 pin, so chopped the wires in the L/H boot space and wired in a new 13 pin cable and socket using chocolate block connectors. It all works fine! Very curious there are two settings yet my home re-wire works!

Bob 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

That makes sense though. I had all the right power coming to the back of the 7pin, it's just that it was going to the wrong pins. I could have cut the wires, worked out which were carrying which signal and spliced them into a new connector.

In effect, that's what you did.