Hello all,
I previously had a FL1 and bought a FL2 four years ago which has been problem free until the other day.
2010, FL2, 2.2 Diesel,manual, 27K Miles.
Gave a friend a jump start on his ford focus as his battery was flat.
Had the freelander running before connecting the jump leads to the battery. The focus started and I switched off the freelander. Seemed a total success.
Jumped in my freelander about an hour later and immediately on pulling away, there was a lack of power from the engine and a reduced engine performance display on the dashboard.The engine is running in limp home mode with the engine check light showing. Contacted landrover dealer who suggested that I may have spiked the ECU controlling the battery management and should disconnect the battery for a minute and reconnect which might clear the fault. Tried this, no change.
Took my car to an independant landrover service centre and the mechanic hooked up his diagnostic tool ( like a large I pad) which showed 140 faults. He then cleared them and I tested the car. Still the same.
He hooked up the diagnostic again and reckoned it was possibly a split boost hose to the turbo which, I had my doubts as the exhaust had no smoke. Left my car with him and after checking the turbo hose, found to be good.
So, has anybody any suggestions what could be causing this problem?

I will add that my oil service counter and visit dealer indication came up on the dash exactly a year since the last service by land rover. Due to the car only covering about 5k miles, I have not had the oil service done. I have been meaning to do it myself, just haven't had the time.
Could this have anything do do with it as I have read that there is an oil condition monitor in the engine?
Also, what about the fuel filter, could this be choked?
Cheers
Duke

I'd be asking what those 140 faults were, and whether they could indicate an underlying problem. 140 is rather a lot! That said, is seems too much of a coincidence that this happened immediately after the jump start.

LR do recommend that, due to the complex electronics in the FL2, special (read expensive) jump leads should be used if you need to jump another car. That said, I have used standard leads from mine a couple of times without problems.

If you literally just disconnected the battery for a minute this may not have been enough time to allow everything to discharge, so I'd disconnect it and leave it for at least 5 minutes - also, if you're confident in what you're doing, touch the battery leads together whilst they are disconnected from the battery as this will help discharge any remaining charge.

Thanks for your reply.
I'll give that a try, fingers crossed.
Cheers

pab wrote:

LR do recommend that, due to the complex electronics in the FL2, special (read expensive) jump leads should be used if you need to jump another car. That said, I have used standard leads from mine a couple of times without problems.

Just a thought but with reference to the Fuel Filter I have had two FL2s with strange problems which went away after a new fuel filter was fitted. The filter is only changed every other service so at 27k you might be on the original. I believe that the DPF/oil conditioning monitor only came in in the 2011 facelift version which you might have) 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Anti-surge is, indeed, what they are. Protects the ECU from spikes from the other vehicle.

Interesting, just had a look at some on Amazon and there is a little box connecting the leads. Does anyone have any idea what it actually does? For spike protection you normally use an inductance coil in series but that would be be bigger than that shown. Is it just an overvoltage cutout ? (in which case it would have to work very quickly and still be capable of carrying 100 amps or so)

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-Anti-Surge-...B009MLUUPI 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

There is nothing in my LR manual that came with MY13 car that says one has to use special jumper leads.

I jump started anther car a week ago. My jumper leads are 200 amp continuous current 78mm² welding cable with 200 amp continuous solid copper bronze clamps. I actually used two sets end to end as the other car was in a difficult position.

The other car started instantly!


Don't buy off the shelf jumper leads, they are all rubbish, make your own. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Last edited by Lightwater on 5th Apr 2015 11:15 pm. Edited 1 time in total

You say you switched it off immediately after the other car was started, did you disconnect the jump leads first
If you didn't this I would suspect where your spike came from, the other cars alternator would have been working at maximum output and still connected to you. p****d off with a Digital Keyboard Warrior

Yes, jump leads were removed before shutting down the engine.

Have you done what the dealer suggested?

Remove both leads from your battery, hold both leads together and leave them like that for 5 mins, this will drain any Capasators in the numerous ecu's and upon reconnecting to the cars battery they reboot Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

Have started about 50 cars over the years & other half has done some as well, including 2 cars one after the other in a car park. Once started I do leave the cars connected for a minute before disconnecting the jumper leads. Also have as much as possible turned off in the car, & the oldest battery I've had is 4 years. Never had an issue. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

different vehicle But
A mate jump started his 996 porsche and blew 2 ecus
targa roof one was £400+vat the other related to the central locking.
I prefer to charge any battery now days with the CTEK MX5 I purchased.

We jump started a Porsche 997 with a very flat battery from a Peugeot 207 with no fancy jump leads but we did let the battery charge up a bit first and then disconnected before starting. I was concerned at what the big Porsche engine and alternator might do to the Peugeot when it fired up. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

I was always a bit amused when our little old Ibiza started all these large 6 cylinder cars first pop. Even funnier when the other half was asked if she had jumper leads, then the guy had second thoughts, what does a female know, & she says not a problem. She connects everything up, 8 cylinder car starts & the bloke is somewhat embarrassed by the whole situation. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18