Hi guys,
Just had my rear diff replaced by warranty direct. A mile down the road the fuel gauge dropped to zero so I took it back to the garage. They said it could be a sticky sensor. Got them to check all the fault codes and nothing. They started to move it off the ramp and it sprang back to life. So whilst talking and the vehicle stationary it failed again. To my mind that is not a sticky sensor. Anyone have a view on this? Seems a bit coincidental just after having some work. Never happened before!

Freelander 2 SE Diesel Auto

Sounds like a connecter to the fuel tank has been disturbed.

Thanks Dave,
Thats the conclusion I have come to. Spoke to my local garage who think the same. Unfortunately it's not the same garage that did the diff. Back to the diff repairers next week to get a new diagnosis and another bill no doubt. Can't look at it for a week though grrrr. Anyway I'll brim it for now and post back the news. Thanks again for the reply.

Just an update. Brimmed it and gauge has jumped back into life but only shows 3/4 full.

I had problems last year with my fuel gauge. There is a software update that fixes the issues sometimes but not all the times. The software update is to stop errors in the software of the instrument cluster. The software update didn't work on my car.

I ended up having the senders re-wired. There is a known problem of diesel corroding the wiring of the senders. The senders should be fine, just the electrical joints will be damaged. Its a big job to sort out as the prop shaft has to be removed and the fuel tank taken out. It cost me at an indy £350 quid. The rewire parts cost 20 quid, the rest was labour!!

The indy who did mine said that you need to run your tank as low as possible as its hard work to get tank out as its heavy when full of fuel, plus if the tank is dropped theres a good chance it will smash as its made of plastic! Plus with the anti syphoning devices in the tank its hard to empty the tank of fuel and that adds to the labour costs. Black MY2013 SD4 GS Auto, Wood Company Armrest, Freel2 sticker.
Gone MY2010 Freelander 2 Manual TD4.e S, Alaska White.

I've started having most of the problems mentioned in this thread - sudden dropping of gauge, light coming on, then working normally, showing just over half a tank when just been filled - switch off and switch on and that clears fault - sometimes!

I know I'm going to have to get it sorted at one point but the one thing I haven't had is the car going into limp mode even though the light has been on and fuel gauge showing empty for half an hour or more. It's been happening briefly every couple of months for the last year but has got worse in the past week or so - more often not working than working. I've tried wiggling the connector accessed by removing the big plastic bung under the drivers side rear seat with no success. Haven't managed to disconnect it yet as I can't work out how it unclips - I've tried inserting and levering the connector with all sorts of implements with no success.

What is this loom repair that people speak of - is the loom external or internal and what parts are required?

My problem is, I'm due to be going to a wedding in it next weekend some distance away and I'm wondering if it is going to go into limp mode halfway there with me and four guests! My question is, does it ALWAYS go into limp mode as I've not had any sign of it. Ever.

One other thing, and don't shoot me down, is that over the years I have seen a fair few tank sender units replaced in vehicles that 'should' have the tank removed by......cutting out a section in the floor pan underneath the rear seat, replacing the sender unit, and fabricating a sealed cover plate to cover the hole and that has been on cars that have tanks that are a lot easier to remove that a FL2. Can both sender units be accessed in this way? I know the one behind the drivers seat can but is there another one in a similar position on the other side? If they can, I wouldn't have any qualms about cutting my floor - after all, there's a not quite big enough hole in it already so just thinking of enlarging that to have enough room to get at the unit.

Thoughts anyone?

When I had my issue fixed the mechanic took out the tank to get to the senders, I don't know if you can cut a patch under the seat to gain access. The mechanic showed me the connectors he used to rewire the senders, they just looked like cheap electrical crimp type connectors, he said they were resistant to diesel. I know on the bill that total price for parts was 20 quid. As for wiring loom I think he just made one up on the spot, I don't think there was anything special about it. Black MY2013 SD4 GS Auto, Wood Company Armrest, Freel2 sticker.
Gone MY2010 Freelander 2 Manual TD4.e S, Alaska White.

You can access the Sender Unit on the Offside, should be under the Offside Rear Passenger Seat, large Rubber grommet, think it's been said you can undo it but won't be able to remove it. p****d off with a Digital Keyboard Warrior

Just had mine fixed today at 4x4 adventure Leeds 280 pounds tank out 2 wires in the tank had to be rejoined together same price as it would be for just one of the sender units so was quite relieved

Well it seems like I have joined the club of intermittent zero fuel gauge reading. I have read with interest about the development and possible cause of this problem. It appears that it has been narrowed down to a faulty connector on the fuel pump inside the tank. This particular thread has been of great help but for the average Joe like myself to feel confident about tackling the issue, ( did my rear diff in Nov so happy to have a go) a few more details would be greatly appreciated.

I think I am as far knowing that I need to remove exhaust, prop, heat shield and handbrake cables. Having run the tank as low as I dare, now lower the tank on a support after disconnecting hoses etc.. through round access hole under rear offside seat.

Now with tank out, carefully remove pump assembly, offside side, (with offside sender attached)and inspect black connector block. Okay, that's as far as I am confident up to.
My questions are:-
Will the tech bulletin from Topix, if i pay for an hours access, give me all the information I need to perform the hard wire fix. Is there a standard repair kit available from LR. If no kit available, what connector if any is used. It is agreed that replacing both senders is not required. ( I'm happy to take my chances, I love laying under cars!)

So if there are any techies out there that have performed this fix, that could perhaps fill in the missing parts of this jigsaw, it would be greatly appreciated.

Really hoping someone can help and looking forward to any suggestions.

Hi when I picked my car up from the garage he told me there was a bulletin on this problem and it's to do with the black connector that you have mentioned he had cut the wires and recrimepd new ones in place I'm sorry I didn't get the old wiring back off them I could of taken a photo but I bet if you rang Chris up at 4x4 adventure Leeds he would tell you the two wires to cut and crimp

Thanks Carley bear. I shall give Chris a ring. When I find out what is required and complete the job, I will post some pictures to help others. There is another thread going on the same subject and I think it was andy131 that gave a temporary fix using 150ohm resisters to fool the computer and not cut your engine. A great get you home fix. That seems to be the main worry with this fault is that you could get stranded with the car thinking it is out of fuel. 78p at maplins and at least I can get myself out of trouble. Still happy to take further comments on how easy and what is involved with the wiring fix.

That was my main worry first time it happened back in October I read the forum and saw the engine cutting out so joined the rac but never cut out on me and it only started doing the problem again 3 weeks ago and did it every morning on my way to work and then of course didn't do it going to the garage but when they plugged there computer in it came up with the problem in the tank thank god

If you register on TOPiX and then pay for an hour you can access the document about the fuel tank sender units being re wired.
Landrover recomend that the wiring is cut and the crimped together doing away with the connectors.
If anyone is interested, there are also diagrams within the document showing which wires need to be cut and re connected.

LTB00566v6 - Fuel Gauge Operation Not Accurate
This is the doc you need on TOPiX