Hi, Looked through technical section but can't see issue I'm having.

About 2 months ago vehicle failed to start 1st thing in the morning, dead electrics, no lights on dash at all.
Tried jump-start, no joy.
Called AA who checked battery fuses etc (all OK), eventually he called LR technician who advised pulling out and re-inserting the brown multi-plug on the fuse box in cabin passenger foot well. Apparently stated there could be a condensation problem ???

This sorted out problem with all stats re-set but at least got on my way.

Last week (Thursday) however, I was doing 70 in lane 3 of the M62 at peak time and all electrics and engine just died, slight panic !
Managed to get to hard-shoulder safely but hazards wouldn't work.
As I had been driving for some hours and keen to get home as well as getting off hard-shoulder soonest, I decided to re-visit this brown plug.
Low and behold, disconnected then reconnected and car re-started with electrics back on.
Engine management light now lit on tacho.
No problem with drive or power.

When home (and after a glass) disconnected this brown plug again and squirted it with WD40.
Engine management light now off and everything OK.

This morning (Sunday) stopped to pick-up newspaper and car dead again when trying to start.
This time electric stayed on but message CDS check failed.
Revisited brown plug again but this time just pushed firmly to make sure located properly.
Low and behold, again, all worked fine, no warning lights or messages.

I am an electrician by career so am assuming iffy connections, but is it as simple as that or is something more sinister present ?
I have got extended warranty in place but would like to try to find out probable cause before taking to dealer with what is in essence an intermittent fault where it won't appear when in their hands.

Trying to avoid another cut-out on the motorway !!

Any comments more than welcome and thanks in advance ! Freelander 2 XS+ TD4 Manual, Stornoway Grey
Freelander 2 GL Manual 2012,

I would tend to agree with you that I it would appear to be a poor connection problem.

but also agree that it may be something else and is being temporarily sorted with a hard reset ?

no doubt someone with more knowledge will come along shortly to comment,

Iain

Certainly sounds like an electrical contact issues, WD40 will shift moisture but it is an insulator , the contacts need cleaning not insulating.
WD over time will attract all sorts of cack making a pretty good insulator, the contacts need cleaning and making sure they are sound, if you have a loose connector or corroded cable in the plug, no amount of squirting will help.
Others have experienced engine shut down on the motorway, have a search and see what comes up.

Sounds like the AA were correct.
I wonder if the connector latch which holds together both halves of the connector wasn't located properly when you had the problem for the second time?
Try disconnecting/reconnecting the connector 5 times to wipe the terminals contact area clean. You could also fill it with an automotive connector grease which will protect it against condensation/moisture and use a tie wrap to securely hold both halves of the connector together. Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

Thanks for replies to all so far.
Hoping it wasn't something more sinister and consensus seems to point to quality of connections.
Good idea to disconnect/reconnect a few times to wipe pins/sockets, I'll give that a go.
I'll have to practice limbo moves to get at the area http://www.freel2.com/forum/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif
With such multiple pins in this connector guess doesn't take much to foul.
RE WD40, yes agree that could cause muck attraction in time, when I was on the tools (a long time ago) I found it better than RS switch cleaner but guess times have moved on. I'll visit halfords to see what they have. Freelander 2 XS+ TD4 Manual, Stornoway Grey
Freelander 2 GL Manual 2012,

There are a lot of low current circuits in the modern vehicle; some as low as a few milliamps. Even a small rise in contact resistance can cause problems.
The airbag firing circuit connectors even uses gold plated terminals which are more resistant to corrosion. Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

The automotive connecter grease mentioned is probably the best route, be careful with some of the spray contact cleaners, some contain propellants that will attack the plastic of the connector.

This;
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dielectric-Greas...588fd87e66 Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

My experience of extended warranties do not cover electrical faults, or at least mine didn't on another make. So best to read what it does actually cover which may be very little Ex 2010 Freelander2 GS-e Diesel manual Silver owner

Thanks for all comments and links, will report back with hopefully positive results.
If I do end-up at dealer under extended warranty could be an interesting discussion !
As far as I can see electrics are covered in LR extended warranty, but that's my interpretation not theirs !! Freelander 2 XS+ TD4 Manual, Stornoway Grey
Freelander 2 GL Manual 2012,

This type of connector is of the interference-fit type. That is, the female end engages with the male end at first contact to push away any debris as the two halves are pushed together. As this connector isn't often opened and closed, I'm more inclined to suspect other causes rather than debris. Opening and closing the connector is only a temporary fix as you have found, as is cleaning with WD40. Isopropyl alcohol is better to use. Mechanically, check that the tines on the female end aren't too far apart (worn). Also check that the wiring is still securely crimped or soldered to the feedthrough (pin) on both the female and male end of the connector if you can. Check that the connector wiring insulation hasn't chaffed against anything to expose the conductor which then occasionally makes contact with something else...

I suspect 'fretting' between terminals within the connector which is why I suggested disconnect/connect and connector grease  Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

What do you mean by 'fretting' ?
Not a term I've heard before (apart from on guitar !!) Freelander 2 XS+ TD4 Manual, Stornoway Grey
Freelander 2 GL Manual 2012,

Ah well, I could go for ages, but I'll keep it very short.
Fretting is where the point of electrical contact is subject to minute movement (microns) such as vibration. This causes wear/debris and is followed by oxidisation (corrosion). The contact area will have increased resistance and can eventually become open circuit.
Low current tin plated terminals are particularly susceptible.
It's a common known phenomena in the world of automotive connectors. Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

Thanks Pegleg, just shows never to old to learn something new !
Got all kit to attack this multi-connector at weekend when hopefully a bit better weather.
Contralube 770 and syringe at the ready!
Keeping fingers crossed issue doesn't occur again before then. Freelander 2 XS+ TD4 Manual, Stornoway Grey
Freelander 2 GL Manual 2012,