Try the tailgate opener on the key fob, if this doesn't work check the fuse in the passenger footwell. Unfortunately, if these still do not open the tailgate it might be a trip to the dealers.

Thank you Wizking. Unfortunately they are not made field serviceable like the older Landies.

Avoid a trip to the dealers:

(extracted from: http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic15392.htm...ate+latch)

My latch failed in the "part closed" position - ie. the tailgate would not open, by use of tailgate handle switch or remote. All that could be heard was a weak click when operated. The car however logged it as "tailgate open" and refused to let me lock the car and kept the interior lights on too. There was no option but to disconnect the battery last night.
Today, I tried again, but without any luck. I then rang Duckworths and spoke to Adam in the workshop who confirmed that if I could not get the latch to open, the whole lot would have to be dismantled in situ. He thought there "may" be a quick release lever once I accessed the latch (there was not).
To dismantle, I removed the 2 screws in the tailgate trim handles then pulled off the trim from the top. The trim will not come off completely as it is trapped by the closed latch. I was then able to remove the three torx head bolts that hold the latch. I disconnected the electrical connection (use a screwdriver to depress the lock tang and pull off) and was then able to open the tailgate leaving the latch still locked on to the staple. I then removed the hasp by unclipping the threshold trim and levering it up from the inside to access the 2 bolts. I was then able to remove the whole latch/trim/trim/staple assembly from the car. As everything was still locked together, it was clear to me I would have to destroy the latch to separate the parts. I cut off the plastic tags that held the mechanism cover with a Dremel and levered the casing apart. I could then see that the nylon shaft as seen in Sean's photos had snapped in the same place. I was then able to operate the lever that is normally moved by the nylon shaft to unlatch at last.
I have temporarily reconnected the latch electrically ensuring the mechanism is in the locked position. At least I can now lock the car again. The tailgate has been secured internally with bungee cord. I will order a new latch from Dan @Duckworths on Monday.

Bob 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

Thank you Dunkley201 ! sounds good. Let me try and see what happens. Cheers,

Thank you Dunkley201, now got the mechanism out and figuring out how to open it without destroying it. BTW Freelander 2 owners out there, can you share what other parts you have replaced thus far and a rough mileage of when it happened. I am thinking of doing some preventive maintenance to avoid being caught out in the most inconvenient of situation! My Haldex coupling fail at about 30,000km (costly replacement). Cheers,

Pleased you got it out ok mf. Let us know if you open it without destroying it - - I could not as I need to open the latch to get at it. Mine was replaced at about 85k, BTW. Bad luck re your Haldex, but that is not common. My previous SE went to 103,000 without problems (I then sold it).
Bob 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

Dunkley201, I got stuck here. Need a special tool to slide the metal casing off. It looks like a star sort of a driver with a pin in the middle (enlarge photo). need to find a tool to unscrew it so that the plastic bit will come off the metal bit.

Not familiar with that one, mf. I thought it was just a torx screw. Try using a small cold chisel and hammer to cut a groove in the periphery and unscrew it..... (That is how I would do it anyway ) Bob.
NB: the sort of tools I would have bought down the Katong Emporium (if it is still there ). 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

It sounds like they have used a Torx tamper-proof (6 point Star and Recessed Dome) screw head.

www.myword.info/images/st_head_1a.jpg

Dunkley's advice is probably the best but if you really want to know what tool you need, drop Dan at Duckworths a line...he'll be able to clarify exactly. I only have the tools up to 5mm heads for these type of screws Foraging near Gaydon....
——————————————
MY13 HSE Lux SD4, Baltic Blue - current, 30,000> miles without fault
MY12 HSE 2.2 SD4, Sumatra Black - gone after 10 months/43,000 fault-free miles

Well, I think I will order a new one around 20-30 pounds (non-OEM) and take my time to find the tool to open it. Strange thing is that I could flick the catch open easily when it is shut. They should have left a cable there for a manual release in odd situations. LR is becoming more and more of a non-field repair friendly car. Sadly.

Hey Dunkley201, when were you in Singapore? It is Katong Shopping Centre and about 40 years old I think.

Thanks Badger1970. It looks like a nasty tool! Now I can understand why there is a kind of a pin in the middle. To deter other tools from trying to unscrew it! Dont understand why they do it, only makes life more difficult for the owners/consumer...

Hi there, mf. I don't recall any problem dismantling it, including that screw. Maybe used a flat blade or cross head screwdriver held hard in the slot. Almost certainly your latch is broken on the nylon shaft as per the pics in the link I gave you, so it will be best to replace the latch assembly.

Singapore? This will date me: 1967 to 1970. Used to live at 332 Upper East Coast Road. Now gone, sadly. All new build there now I believe. Worked at what is now Changi airport, (previously RAF Changi). Happy days!

Regards, Bob 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

HI Dunkley201, that was some time ago mf! Yes, East Coast Road is now a upmarket living area. Prices are not what they were like in the 60s or 70s. Yes, those were the good old days. I will be outstation for work for 1 week or so and probably wont have much time to mess about with the computer. Take care and thanks for all the tips. Cheers, Robert

Can someone tell me which fuse for the tailgate. I read F25 somewhere but on looking at the fuse box they are not numbered on the lid, just silly logos ? Thanks

Can you open your Fuel Flap Charly7?

F25, Fuse Box behind the glovebox, bottom row, fourth from the right, 10 Amps, Red, page 199. p****d off with a Digital Keyboard Warrior

Just to resurrect this thread, and say a massive thank you to Dunkley: I managed to jam a bag in the tailgate latch, so that the door wouldn't close properly and wouldn't open. Phoned local dealer, who said they could look at it in December (gee thanks) but they put me through to LR Assistance. I then had a look on here, found this thread, and following advice, climbed into the back and put my weight against the door. And it opened. Dunkley you are a star sir!
And I did remember to cancel the LR Assistance visit. Ex AA Series III LWB Safari - Gone
300TDi Disco (bought new - terrible car) sent back after 18 months
Freelander 1 Estate - leased, given back at end of lease
200TDi Disco (bought from a mate with 100,000 on the clock) - Gone
Disco 2 TD5 - sold and exported to France
FR2 TD4 GS - Gone
FR2 SD4 HSE - Now changed for a DS
New model ex-demo Evoque S 180 in white
Unable to order a new DS, so gave up. Now have a Volvo S90 Recharge.