Hi everyone, before any LR mechanics have a pop, my first ever u tube videos were intended to give a brief visual guide of how I changed the rear discs and pads on my FL2. I noticed U tube have a front disc video but not one for the rear so decided to get the recorder going.

Please note that I used vehicle stands for safety along with a 3 tonne jack, I used the correct torque settings before testing the car, and used genuine LR parts
I accept no responsibility for anyone undertaking this work, or their safety - the videos are purely meant as a visual overview and to show whats generally involved. I would also suggest that you look at how to adjust the handbrake shoes which is very straight forward using the knurled wheel inside the disc to complete the job

Hope it helps those who are contemplating this task themselves

Basic steps

Loosen slightly road nut wheels
Jack up car
leave handbrake OFF
put car IN gear
Use axle stands for safety and chock front wheels
Remove road wheel
remove cap on brake fluid located under the flap under bonnet in front of drivers side windscreen and put a rag around it in case of spllliage when you push the caliper piston back

Remove Caliper from Hanger (2 bolts)
Remove Caliper hanger from Hub (2 bolts)
Remove star screw from disc
Pull disc off towards you (may need some wiggling and a soft mallet)
If disc is stuck take your time and keep cool and you may need to slacken off the handbrake shoes using the second hole in the disc and a flat screwdriver)
Once disc is off clean thoroughly and inspect handbrake shoes (if worn replace), mine had plenty of meat on them so I left them
I lubricate the adjuster and spring as these are common seizure items) don't get any on the handbrake shoes
New disc on after cleaning both faces with brake cleaner
Replace caliper hanger after a clean
Replace after cleaning the pad stainless shim holders or replace with new if knackered
then pop in the new pads applying some copper grease to the ends so that they can move on the stainless shims
Replace caliper after a clean, a touch of copper grease to the piston face and other end to stop rusting onto the pads
Use new bolts for caliper and hanger as these have Loctite on them
on with the caliper after pushing back the piston gently
tighten to torque specs using torque wrench
gently pump the brake peddle slightly to bring on the caliper and pads
adjust the handbrake shoes if necessary
replace cap on brake fluid reservoir checking level is correct first
refit wheel and gently apply brakes to ensure they work!
slowly test drive to ensure the brakes work properly!
bed in gently for next 30 miles or so

im sure there are other methods but this is how I do it and it works fine for me

tech specs

Rear:
Brake caliper bleed screw - 10 Nm
Brake caliper mounting plate to wheel knuckle bolts* - 110 Nm
Brake caliper guide pin bolts - 30 Nm
Brake disc dust shield bolts - 13 Nm
Brake disc Torx screw - 35 Nm
Brake flexi hose union to caliper - 15 Nm
Brake hose retaining bracket to damper bolt - 22 Nm

*Always fit new nuts/bolts.


2 parts to the video


 - FL2 3.2 i6 - There is no Replacement for Displacement

If my wife ever sells my stuff for what I told her I paid for it, there will be some bargains out there!

Last edited by leesbay on 5th Aug 2014 12:17 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Great write up

With bonus video too  Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

Thank you for this excellent post.

I changed the rear pads today, a doddle when you have posts like these.

Not read it yet, but just put this in my FL2 'saved' file for when I need to do the brakes.
I'm more than sure it's top notch

Glad it helped
Very simple job, which most can do
Gives you great satisfaction and also saves a few quid! - FL2 3.2 i6 - There is no Replacement for Displacement

If my wife ever sells my stuff for what I told her I paid for it, there will be some bargains out there!

Excellent write up many thanks.

Very good step by step write up but can I ask just one question. Why put the car in gear - especially as yours is an auto?

That can't be right. Where were the skinned knuckles, rounding off nuts, getting copper slip everywhere and swearing non stop????
Oh wait thats just me then.
Great vid.

As said by others, great video. Just a word of caution. When you clean up the shims with a wire brush on a drill it is very easy to catch and drag fingers into the wires, and that bloody hurts. Also put a dust mask on, you do not want to breathe in all the crap that flies into the air. Otherwise excellent job.  FL2 Metropolis, Loire Blue, ebony/ivory

and to continue.....a claw hammer is for Carpenters to hit nails with. It is best practice (and does less damage) to use a "soft" hammer ie nylon or ally faced for "persuading" discs etc to remove them.

Great vid though!  10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

Just about to do this job on my MY13 with Electronic Parking Brake - THANKS for the clear instructions and videos - very helpful  No Longer the owner of a 2013MY Fuji White GS

"Fiat Lux" a philosophy not a car

ronp wrote:

Not read it yet, but just put this in my FL2 'saved' file for when I need to do the brakes.
I'm more than sure it's top notch

I agree and am doing the same as ronp said!

Thanks for taking the time to create this as it does make it so much easier for others to follow and know the score in advance

westville wrote:

Just about to do this job on my MY13 with Electronic Parking Brake - THANKS for the clear instructions and videos - very helpful

Thanks Steve I already have that info printed off and ready to use
For the benefit of others here is the routine for putting the EPB in "service mode"

Procedure is:

Quote:

Ensure its in park or neutral and the park brake deactivated and ignition turned on.

1. Press and hold the parking brake switch in the release position.

2. Wait 2 seconds

3. Press and hold the accelerator pedal in the wide open throttle position.

4. Wait 2 seconds

5. Turn ignition off and on immediately whilst still finger on park button and foot on throttle.

6. An audible noise will confirm service mode, it will also be displayed on dash.

You will hear the brake motors activate for a while.

Deactivation

with ignition on.

1. Press and hold the parking brake switch in the apply position.

2. Wait 2 seconds

3. Press and hold the accelerator pedal in the wide open throttle position.

4. Wait 2 seconds

5. Turn ignition off and on again. keeping finger on park button and foot on throttle.

Somebody on another thread mentioned using lock tight on the caliper carrier bolts? I've got some rear pads on the way which are coming with 4 bolts, I'm guessing these are the carrier bolts. Do I use lock tight or is the torque setting enough