I have a 2011 Freelander 2 GS and have noticed that when I am pulling away from a standing start and change gear into 2nd and the turbo kicks in, I get a little judder on the drive of the vehicle as the power of the turbo assists, does this sound like a pressure plate problem with the clutch. It does not do it in any other gear. The engine mountings look ok from what I can see.

Could this be caused by the Haldex Unit?

Thanks Alan

Alan

Did you get this problem identified and solved? I have same problem and am struggling to rectify

Thanks

No I did not get any replies so at the moment I am living with it, it only happens when I accellerate hard in a low gear so I try and drive without pushing it. I will probably have a new clutch fitted when I have saved up enough.

Thanks Alan

Alan. What you describe could possibly be a clutch/DMF issue. Unlikely to be Haldex. I remember when I had a manual that changes from 1st to 2nd could sometimes be a bit jerky - and it was't me (honest!). It often took real concentration to get a smooth change. The rest of the box was fantastic though. Sold it at 103,000 miles, still on the original clutch too! (and I tow a caravan!)
Bob 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

Bob
Thanks for the info, my freelander has only done 34,000miles and I am looking to fit a tow bar as I am a caravaner as well. I used to run a 54 plate Freelander before with a manual gearbox towing an Abbey GTS 418 which is quite a heavy van. So will probably get a new clutch fitted before I try and tow with it.

Thanks Alan

Mine judders in the higher gears, the clutch slips a little from 1800 to 2100 revs. It doesn't do it all the time only when I give it some welly. Mines done 45000 miles. I was speaking to the local indy I use and he said its a common issue with the DMf, infact he had an FL2 on the ramps doing a dmf/clutch change. I'm going to leave mine until it gets worse. Advanced Factors, a site sponsor here does a good deal for DMF and clutch. My indy said it was the cheapest price he had seen. Black MY2013 SD4 GS Auto, Wood Company Armrest, Freel2 sticker.
Gone MY2010 Freelander 2 Manual TD4.e S, Alaska White.

AMO123456 wrote:

Thanks for the info, my freelander has only done 34,000miles and I am looking to fit a tow bar as I am a caravaner as well.

Thanks for the info very helpful

Alan

Ahem...Mike no longer looks after the LRCS issues...it is now Pete.

www.freel2.com/forum/topic20679.html Foraging near Gaydon....
——————————————
MY13 HSE Lux SD4, Baltic Blue - current, 30,000> miles without fault
MY12 HSE 2.2 SD4, Sumatra Black - gone after 10 months/43,000 fault-free miles

Amended.....  10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

Are you finding this happening because when pulling away moderately hard, you are pressing the accelerator to try and build turbo boost, whilst at the same time trying to feather the engagement of the clutch for a smooth change?

If so, I don't worry about it too much.

I get the judder sometimes on a hard pull away where I'm progressively trying to let the clutch bite engage smoothly.

I put the judder down to the DMF springs and what is happening is that as the clutch plates bind and bite the DMF is beginning to engage the internal spring which is compressing up rotationally, but because I don't have a full bite on the clutch plates (cause its being held open slightly due to me trying to make it smooth), the DMF spring tension reaches a point where it has to release (or becomes greater than the tension on the clutch plates) and in doing so looses engagement of the plates by slipping ( loss of drive ) ... with the DMF spring tension gone, the process then starts again, until you fully let up the clutch so that the bite of the clutch plates overcomes the DMF spring tension regardless.

Its a consequence of the DMF setup. Non-DMF clutch plates would be fine with the feathering of clutch engagement as they would slip smoothly. With a DMF, the rotational compression internally gets in the way of that, causing the judder effect.

I've found the solution is just to let up clutch up smoothly but quickly and let it bite in fully, rather than trying to feather the plates together. Because you have the DMF spring which can take up rotational differences between the plates, then even with a quicker engagement (but smooth movement), you have an element of protection from shunting the driveline.

Fisha
Those are the times when it seems to happen, probably my driving style as I do tend to slip the clutch to try and stop the judder from happening, although since I have started to do this the judder does not happen but I am pulling away slower than I would have normally to keep up with traffic in front.

I will live with it for now and see how it goes until its next service and if it still as problem I will ask the dealer to look at it.

Thanks Alan  Freelander 2 TD4 GS 2011 Manual Satorini Black (Current)
Freelander TD4 S 2004 Silver Manual (Gone)
Landrover Series 3 Manual Long Wheel Base Safari (Gone)
Landrover series 2A Manual Short Wheel Base (Gone)
Numerous different vehicles inbetween

I've generally found that for a fast pull away change from 1st to 2nd, the best method has been pull away in 1st hard, dip clutch and take foot completely off the accelerator at same time (to the point your foot is physically just off the pedal - zero throttle demand), into 2nd gear, bring up the clutch smooth but quickly for full engagement and once you know your getting proper engagement, then back on the throttle.

So its almost a little in reverse ... where before it would be throttle then feather the clutch, its rather clutch then throttle.

With the right timing, what i've found happens is that as you let off in 1st, and put zero demand on engine (foot off gas), the revs will fall back down normally, but with the gear changing to 2nd and bringing up the clutch, the revs seem to fall just down to the correct point for engagement to 2nd without needing to slip the plates. with the right timing of the throttle, then boost comes in just a fraction after full engagement. Sometimes there is turbo lag, but the clutch engagement is smoother that way.

This seems to work for a number of cars (my mini cooper especially). The key being to lift your right foot right off the pedal during the change.

Fisha

Thanks again for your experience, I will try and take it on board and put it into practice.

Thanks Alan  Freelander 2 TD4 GS 2011 Manual Satorini Black (Current)
Freelander TD4 S 2004 Silver Manual (Gone)
Landrover Series 3 Manual Long Wheel Base Safari (Gone)
Landrover series 2A Manual Short Wheel Base (Gone)
Numerous different vehicles inbetween